Lmavolio wrote:.

So here is my question - if I leave my D-SLR on it's automaticsettings, will that automatically give me better pictures than a highend Point & Shoot camera (assuming I am also using the automaticsettings of the Point & Shoot)?>>.

Yes if the DSLR is very reliable at exposure and produces pictures that need little or no post processing. Nikon D40x would be good at this..

Not sure if by the very nature that the D-SLR has a better lens andis a better quality camera, if that alone will provide betterpictures over a point & shoot.>>.

No. Some kit lenses are worse than those on top-end compacts. It is the bigger sensor of the DSLR that makes the difference by producing less noise and permitting better quality edge transition sharpness. However, even a kit lens will produce better Bokeh (nice smooth out of focus backgrounds) when isolating a subject. This is because you can use a large aperture on a bigger sensor..

OR, would I be better off buying a point & shoot camera if I don'thave time to learn it's features before I leave...>>.

No. It is just as difficult to learn how to use a complicated compact camera. The main advantage of the compact camera is that you have live preview, but if you get a DSLR with a good exposure system (like the Nikon D40x) you won't need to worry too much about it capturing the image except in sertain very high contrast situations..

1) The Point & Shoot cameras I am looking at have either 12X or 15Xoptical zooms with image stabilization. What is the equivalent D-SLRlens I would have to buy in order to get that zoom and how much dothose lenses cost?>>.

It depends where the zooms start from 28mm (decent wide angle) or 35mm or worse. On an APS DSLR you can multiply the equivalent focal length by approx 1.5 which would mean a 300mm is like 450mm. That 15x Olympus is about more than 500mm, but is not that much further. You will be able to crop your DSLR picture by say 25% to get a similar result. How much will it cost? They will try to sell you a 2 lens kit, perhaps you need a Tamron 18mm-250mm (= 28-375). Google for it..

2) How long does it take in order for the average (non-pro!!)photographer to pick up the basic features of a D-SLR? (i.e, do Ihave time to make this option work!!)>>.

Depends how much you want to pick up and how fast you want to move away from auto to Aperture Priority mode or Shutter Priority. They usually have a choice of Scene modes to help you achieve more conistent results. It will be no more difficult than learning a Panasonic FZ50, Canon s5 or Fuji 9100..

Get a good basic entry level DSLR you can trust like the Nikon D40x or the Canon 400D. If you want image stabilisation then look at Pentax, Sony and Olympus. However, it is exposure consistency much more than image stabilisation that most people actually need..

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr..

So here is my question - if I leave my D-SLR on it's automaticsettings, will that automatically give me better pictures than a highend Point & Shoot camera (assuming I am also using the automaticsettings of the Point & Shoot)?.

No. Automatic modes can't read your mind. In some cases, the camera's assumptions will be flat-out wrong, and it's up to the person using it to recognize such situations..

For instance, even your average DSLR might not understand that you're trying to focus on something *behind* the chain-link fence instead of on the fence itself. Nor is it going to necessarily make a good decision in cases where the usual metering assumptions break down; for instance, kids wearing very dark winter coats while building snowmen in a snowy scene..

It's also not going to pan for you, compose for you, or so forth..

It's going to be -harder- to use in certain situations, like trying to shoot over a crowd if you aren't tall enough or high enough to be looking through the viewfinder while doing so..

Not sure if by the very nature that the D-SLR has a better lens andis a better quality camera, if that alone will provide betterpictures over a point & shoot..

You can get pretty bad lenses for SLRs, too. Try an Opteka 650-1300mm f/8-16. Handheld, if you want to use bad technique, too..

OR, would I be better off buying a point & shoot camera if I don'thave time to learn it's features before I leave....

2 other questions:.

1) The Point & Shoot cameras I am looking at have either 12X or 15Xoptical zooms with image stabilization. What is the equivalent D-SLRlens I would have to buy in order to get that zoom and how much dothose lenses cost?.

#x specifications are insufficient. Find the actual focal length (and then adjust for sensor size), or the FOV (and then adjust for sensor size)..

Long, fast lenses can cost quite a lot of money. So can good ultra-wides. Reasonably fast normals / medium telephotos can be non-brutally-expensive..

Try searching for, say, a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8, vs. a Canon EF 1200mm f/5.6. Fairly large price range..

2) How long does it take in order for the average (non-pro!!)photographer to pick up the basic features of a D-SLR? (i.e, do Ihave time to make this option work!!).

The underlying physics are essentially the same, so the difficulty is similar perhaps faster on the SLR with the usually-superior control layout (larger camera, more space for controls without cramping, so less irritating time-wasting menu-diving)...

The biggest reason why people get worse results on their DSLR than on their point & shoot is focus. DSLR have a very small depth of field, so accurate focus is required..

While automatic exposure is ok on DSLR, automatic selection of focus point is troublesome. A DSLR can have many focus points (9 points on the Canon 400D). It doesn't know what is the intended subject, so it might selects the wrong focus point..

Here's the technique I use most of the time. I enable only the central focus point. When shooting, I place the focus point on the subject, half press the shutter, wait for the confirmation beep, recompose, then shoot. If you can learn this much, then chances are your DSLR will be better. If not, stay with the point & shoot..

If you think DSLR have too many features, you're wrong. They actually have less features. For example, a point & shoot can offer 40 different shooting modes, like portrait, scenery, night shot, actions, etc. All of these modes are actually just different combinations of 3 things: shutter speed, aperture, and exposure. So a DSLR gives you control for these 3 things. And that's quite sufficient.



The learning curve on the DSLR is not to use all the features it offers, because there isn't much. Rather, it's about photography itself. It's pretty easy to go through the entire manual in a couple hours of reading. Photography, on the other hand, is independent of camera used. The concepts will apply to even point & shoot (although some of them removes too many manual controls that don't let you do too much). I've seen plenty of great pictures from the point & shoot forum, because these people understand photography..

So DSLR won't automatically give you beautiful photos. It is a tool that allows you to take photos in more demanding environments, and allows you to be more creative...

As you can see below I use DSLRs. However, considering you specific case I would look for a good point and shoot with a good long lens. Panasonic's is very good from what I have read and it has a 12x zoom and a Lieca lens..

Why do I recommend this..

1. Much less to carry and nothing required to carry it in!!2. Lower learning curve3. No need to change lenses eliminating dust issues.

4. MUCH lower cost for instance you can get the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ8 for under $300..

Will the pictures be as good as a DSLR. In general I don't think they are particularly for large prints. But how much is the improvment worth given your specific situation..

Learning to use a camera on this type of trip is not what I would recommend..

Maddog.

Olympus E-500, Olympus E-510..

I wrote the following posts some time ago, they may be of interest..

No matter which dslr you buy..

Heavily consider the following. there are NEW DSLR owners' writing in all over these forums on this subject.when changeing from a p&s to a dslr, there is a huge difference..

When you take p&s out of the box add a memory card and a fully charged battery you can now shoot and take very good pics..

BUT, you cannot do this with dslr. the camera HAS TO BE SETUP first. you have to adjust the contrast/saturation/sharpness/shooting modes(color style or whatever it is called) to your likes. if you don't it is quite likely you will disappointed with results. your p&s will likely outshoot the dslr..

To setup-you have shoot a test shot make ONE adjustment reshoot check pc screen readjust, until you are satisfied. and you do this with each of the adjustment types. then you have all the custom adjustments in the menu to check and if wanted change..

When done you can put the camera into AUTO or PROGRAM and get reasonably nice shots. I would advise at first staying with jpeg. as you learn about the camera and photography you can then go to the other shooting modes and try RAW if you wish..

Dslrs are made to see the shot through the optical viewfinder not through the lcd. this is true of almost all dslrs including the k10d. there was a thread.

Not to log ago about who would want a dslr with a preview lcd, al,most noone wanted one.dslrs and color..

If you mean heavy saturated colors then no dslr is going to do that. they are not made to give strongly saturated colors. they are made to give ACCURATE COLORS. not heavy saturated colors..

This is not the same thing at all. too many people who come from a p&s are very disappointed in th dslr colors, because they are not bright and saturated. this is because they are and have been using a p&s which has been giving them saturated and incorrect clors for so long that they think it is the right look. nothing could be further from the truth. the p&s colors are wrong, wrong. the camera manufactures know that the public buys high megapixel and heavy saturated colors and is what they make and sell to the public..

But the slr/dslr is a whole different world. for the dslr accuracy of the scene in terms of view and color is a religion rpt religion. you want accurate color that is what you are going to get with dslr. but they will not be the bright saturated colors of a p&s. ytou can with adjustments in the menus up the color is dslr, but it will not look the INACCURATE CARTOON COLOR of the p&s..

If you are wishing to buy a dslr for more and brighter color, save you money the p&s is what you want..

Not too long ago a new owner of a dslr was on these forums talking about the poor color of his new dslr. it seems as if he was shooting on an overcast day. many many people replying to him told him that cloudy day shots give the most accurate color, which they do. he couldn't believe and get over that idea. he also owned a p&S previously.you might be interested in this; which I posted a while back..

Http://forums.dpreview.com/...forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=23677257..

After you read my above post-.

-how good the pics are from a dslr is going to depend on you mostly. it all about how fast you can climb the learning curve.what you should be doing is reading the reviews of the starter dslr from the 5 manufacturers and try to tell which can give you the best intial jpegs out of the box but with some new dslr tweaking..

-the goal would be to leave the camera in full AUTO or PROGRAM modes and let the camera do the work. THE BIG CATCH IS THAT YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE TO KNOW WHEN TO INTERVINE WITH THE CAMERA SETTINGS. most of the time the camera will do fine, but there will be times when it will do terrible. it is then up to you to come to the camera's aid and lend your assistence..

-there is the story which you should consider about a reviewer from a website who took a canon 20d and a canon S3IS to hawaii for a vacation. he was also going to shoot as many identical pics as possible with both cameras. when it was over the following results were about 80% of the time there was NO DIFFERENCE, in the other 20% however the dslr wiped out the p&s. in that 20% the p&s was simply outclassed. this was simply due to the dslr's ability to change lenses as needed and having much more control and other advantages..

-therefore, the following possibility for you is, to me, not a small one. simply buy a canon S3IS or S5IS or an olylmpus 550. of the three the S3IS is at b&h right now for $287 camera only. I am not saying go do it, that is for you to decide, it would work and later could be used as a backup for a future dslr of your choice. the future dslr would not be constrained by the 1 month time limit, you could take you time to learn it completely...

Maddogmd11 wrote:considering you specific.

Case I would look for a good point and shoot with a good long lens..

Why do I recommend this..

1. Much less to carry and nothing required to carry it in!!2. Lower learning curve3. No need to change lenses eliminating dust issues4. MUCH lower cost for instance you can get the Panasonic LumixDMC-FZ8 for under $300..

Will the pictures be as good as a DSLR. In general I don't thinkthey are particularly for large prints. But how much is theimprovment worth given your specific situation..

Learning to use a camera on this type of trip is not what I wouldrecommend..

Although I agree in principle with everything you say, I'm not sure a P&S is any easier to use than an entry level dSLR such as the Pentax K100 (which I don't have, but have tried several times). Scene modes make this an extremely easy camera to use, and besides, if some shots fail it is easier to make usable prints out of them than from P&S jpegs. Also, my experience of using LCDs to compose in the African sun was a bad one, so unless the P&S has a viewfinder it will frequently be very difficult to use. The K100 is so inexpensive, even with a two-lens kit, that I would get that and use something like the P&S cameras you suggest as a backup when I don't want to carry a heavy load, or, even cheaper/better, a Fujifilm f31 fd, which can be bought for about USD 200 (see http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilmf31fd/).Shooting since '59 and still waiting for a keeper..

Jonska wrote:.

Although I agree in principle with everything you say, I'm not sure aP&S is any easier to use than an entry level dSLR such as the PentaxK100 (which I don't have, but have tried several times). Scene modesmake this an extremely easy camera to use, and besides, if some shotsfail it is easier to make usable prints out of them than from P&Sjpegs. Also, my experience of using LCDs to compose in the Africansun was a bad one, so unless the P&S has a viewfinder it willfrequently be very difficult to use. The K100 is so inexpensive, evenwith a two-lens kit, that I would get that and use something likethe P&S cameras you suggest as a backup when I don't want to carry aheavy load, or, even cheaper/better, a Fujifilm f31 fd, which can bebought for about USD 200.

Jonska, I don't disagree with much that you have said. Particularly since I have have never tried to use an LCD in Africa you obviously have more experience then I do in that environment. My concern is that given the poster is leaving in 1 month there is a lot to think about in purchasing a DSLR. It is a large investment. With a DSLR you would want to have more than a kit lens and most likely, I am assuming a fairly long lens, and "backpack" there are a great many decisions that could cost a lot of $$, particularly if you make the wrong one. As I was reading your post an idea occured to me that maybe his best approach would be to buy a GOOD low priced P&S and perhaps rent a DSLR and high quality telephoto lens.



MaddogOlympus E-500, Olympus E-510..

Imavolio:.

With your trip just a month away, you do not have time to learn how to use a dslr. You would be much better off with a good P&S with a long lens..

P&S cameras literally do everything for you. A dslr requires you, the photographer, to plan your pictures and to set up the camera properly to take them. The learning curve is relatively steep, contrary to what some say, and you likely would not be happy with your pictures if you used a dslr on your trip..

Even the automatic modes on a dslr require you to think. P&S cameras don't do thisthey use "average" settings that give you "average" photos. To get really good photos with a dslr, you must avoid the automatic modes and set your camera correctly for the particular situation..

Get a decent P&S and enjoy your trip. When you get home, you can consider whether or not you wish to break into real photography. If you are willing to spend the time, you should then consider buying a dslr..

Jerry..

Lmavolio wrote:.

So here is my question - if I leave my D-SLR on it's automaticsettings, will that automatically give me better pictures than a highend Point & Shoot camera (assuming I am also using the automaticsettings of the Point & Shoot)?.

If I get expensive pots and pans, will I cook better food? If I get a nice car, will that make me a better driver?.

The answer to both the above, and to your question, is that if you already have the skills and your current equipment is holding you back, yes you should get better results. But if you don't have the skills, a more expensive tool won't help..

Said another way, the most important part on any camera is the nut behind the viewfinder. You can upgrade this nut with a course at a local community college, art college, etc..

1) The Point & Shoot cameras I am looking at have either 12X or 15Xoptical zooms with image stabilization. What is the equivalent D-SLRlens I would have to buy in order to get that zoom and how much dothose lenses cost?.

If you are looking at the long end of the focal length range (which I assume you are, you probably don't want to be close enough to get a wide-angle shot of a lion), then a xx-300mm zoom lens will be the equivalent (or xx-240mm on Olympus)..

Nikon and Canon 70-300mm IS (VR in Nikon-speak) lenses are in the $500 ballpark. Pentax and Sony DSLRs are sensor-stabilized, so any old xx-300mm is stabilized (but the viewfinder isn't), these lenses start at around $200. One Oly camera is sensor-stabilized (E510), others aren't, and there's only one stabilized lens (which isn't in the right focal length range for you)..

2) How long does it take in order for the average (non-pro!!)photographer to pick up the basic features of a D-SLR? (i.e, do Ihave time to make this option work!!).

If you know photography, it shouldn't take long..

Seen in a fortune cookie:Fear is the darkroom where negatives are developed..

It is possible to buy an expensive digital SLR with an incredibly good lens (also expensive) and then set it up as a P&S. In other words put it into auto focus, auto program mode with auto WB and then (for your trip) lock the ISO at 100. You'll come back with some good pictures - if you've an eye for it. (A lot of pro's do this far more than you'd think: and they don't use RAW all the time.).

But - here's the great big "but" - you need to know what you are doing just in case you do something silly and don't notice at the time. Experience, imo, is needed most when sorting out mistakes. And you only have a month or less..

So I'd advise a good P&S and spend a lot of time playing with it and read the manual (or as we say here RTFM). Better still get a couple of books for beginners and read them as well as the manual. Long air journeys and airports are nature's way of telling us we should read the manual, btw..

So I'll go along with the P&S and suggest the Panasonic FZ50 and a lot of cards, the manual and a couple of books. A spare battery might also be an idea..

Here's a couple of points: don't buy one or two large media cards because you then have all your eggs in one basket. Better to buy a lot even if it means changing them from time to time - it's not like film btw. Run out of card space and you have to buy a new one or else download it to the computer. That might be difficult for you on your safari. Secondly, keep the full cards safe and away from the camera. Cameras get stolen but can be replaced....

Also wonder about a back up; if you've a wife/partner/gf etc then make her equipment similar to your's if possible. So if your's is dropped and smashed you can still use the cards etc in her camera..

If you are rich buy two identical cameras etc. This may be a once in a lifetime event so be prepared, just in case it happens. (I'm always amazed at the people who assume they'll never drop their camera and that their luggage will arrive OK and on time... ).

Regards, David..

VERY IMPORTANT.

A DSLR has a learning curve. Initially the shots you take will NOT be better than what you could get from a P&S. Focusing will be the biggest hurdle to learn. Then you need to learn exposure - shooting landscapes and wildlife on days with bright clouds will fool the auto-exposure..

So if this is a once in a lifetime trip and the photos are important to you then I really recommend a good P&S with the longest lens and highest optical zoom possible. IF you have the time to go out and play with a DSLR before the trip you might be able to learn how to use it and get better results than a P&S. This will still require considerable time. But I do NOT recommend trying to learn how to properly use a DSLR while you are on the trip...

Please read the canon S3IS review on this website; pay close attension to image quality. as I stated the camera is $287 at b&h right now...

I must reiterate my opinion expressed earlier: How can the man possibly be worse off shooting in scene modes on a dSLR than the scene modes of a P&S in Africa if? I suggested the Pentax K100. Probably the Nikon D40 would do the same job (although I have never tried it). Using a P&S in village scenes, markets etc. is fine, but trying to frame an African savannah scene on an LCD in blazing sunlight seems to me a more daunting prospect than framing with a dSLR viewfinder in the appropriate scene mode. If he shoots RAW (or even JPEG) he at least has the chance of correcting (or having a knowledgable friend correct) the worst exposure errors.Shooting since '59 and still waiting for a keeper..

Jonska wrote:.

Using a P&S in village scenes, markets etc. is fine, buttrying to frame an African savannah scene on an LCD in blazingsunlight seems to me a more daunting prospect than framing with adSLR viewfinder in the appropriate scene mode..

The "P&S" cameras recommended in this thread all have EVF, which work just fine in blazing sunlight..

Seen in a fortune cookie:Fear is the darkroom where negatives are developed..

Ex. FZ20 might be better suited than a short, inexpensive kit lens. Might be he doesn't have the budget for a super telephoto...

There are usually a variety of technical or performance intense situations where a dslr should perform better. Things like noise response from the larger sensors or more responsive focus systems, higher sustained shooting rates, etc..

But the dslr won't do much if you already have a good eye or can't compose for beans, either..

The farterh you move away from rather benign moderate conditions or interests, the more the dslr "systems" can assist in solving technical problems...

Jonska wrote:.

I must reiterate my opinion expressed earlier: How can the manpossibly be worse off shooting in scene modes on a dSLR than thescene modes of a P&S in Africa if?.

Autofocus with a smaller DOF often gets the first timers of a DSLR in trouble. Returning home with shots of lions in the grass where the camera focused on a protruding blade of grass 10 feet in front of it wouldn't be fun. P&S cameras would have most of that scene in focus - though the smaller sensor would not provide as crisp or accurate a photo as a properly focused DSLR..

Wouldn't flare be increased in a DSLR lens if shooting in to the sun? Quite possibly the bigger DSLR might be harder to take out and get that 'can't wait another nanosecond' shot because it took a little longer to get out of the camera bag (since it may be too heavy to hand hold for ever in the blazing sun)..

With heavier DSLR lens you definitely have to hold them more steadily than lighter P&S so camera shake is often a problem with first time DSLR shooters..

Generally I'd recommend the DSLR so long as the use has had a chance to test drive it a bit before they go...

Philmar wrote:.

- - - Snip! Snip! Snip! - - -.

Wouldn't flare be increased in a DSLR lens if shooting in to the sun?.

Show me a P & S with a lenshood and I'll answer that question....

REgards, David..

If you are as inexperienced in photography as one must be in order to ask this question, my short answer would be: for you, it is not likely. A DSLR requires technique to get out of it the advantages it offers. Without that knowledge, it won't do any better than your P&S..

Nothing is enough for the man to whom nothing is enough...

David Hughes wrote:.

Show me a P & S with a lenshood and I'll answer that question....

Standard feature on the Panasonic FZ-50. Not standard on many DSLR lenses..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Seen in a fortune cookie:Fear is the darkroom where negatives are developed..

Hi Everyone - thanks for the immensely helpful feedback. I have been out of the office for a few days, but I didn't abandon the post and I am really grateful for all of the feedback. Albeit confused! I have to evaluate your responses and decide what to do. Clearly a lot of differing opinions here....

I do have a friend who said that D-SLR's are not as hard as I may believe them to be and if I can practice a bit before I leave, I should be ok...But, I am still a little intimidated based on some of your responses and my gut tells me maybe I should get a point & shoot for now...I'll let you all know what I decide. Thanks again!..

Nickleback wrote:.

David Hughes wrote:.

Show me a P & S with a lenshood and I'll answer that question....

Standard feature on the Panasonic FZ-50. Not standard on many DSLRlenses..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Interesting example of how a camera is neither a P&S, nor a dSLR. It was on my short list but I went through the review and decided it would irritate a lot - pity really. I wonder what it will be followed by?.

Regards, David..

From my perspective I would go with the point and shoot with a good zoom and high quality lens. I did just what you are contemplating purchased a Nikon D40 SLR about one month in advance of a trip to Egypt...I did not have the time or frankly the digital mindset (been shooting film all my life and am over 50) to master or even get a good knowledge of the camera. Took it and my daughter's small camera point and shoot and ended up very frustrated lugging my equipment around and forgetting to change certain settings and just not knowing what I was doing...one month is not long enough.....end of story actuallly got some nice pictures but too much frustration and getting stuck and not knowing what menu to go to etc. and the pictures from the smaller camera were just a good and in many cases better....and it was a size that we took it with for shopping, evenings etc. and it was the one there for some really good shots. You may have already decided but there are some really nice point and shoots out there...so many on this board are really semi pros and been at this along time and of course SLR is the only way for them but think about what your situation is and how easy technology is for you.

Do you want to do because that is the name of the game with these cameras. Good luck...

I don't understand, why not just get a advanced point and shoot?.

I just saw the Olympus advanced point and shoot for around $500 at PC richards. it was pretty awesome..

I myself own a D80 and a advanced point and shoot FujiFilm S700 ( Olympus one for $500 is better but my FujiFIlm was only $200 ) I paid $1300 for my D80.

I wouldn't recommend a DSLR just for a trip- a once in a lifetime trip none the less- but you won't get professional quality pictures if you don't know how to use a DSLR. It takes along time to learn your camera and get so familiar with it that you will know what settings to use in which situation..

I personally advice a advanced Point & shoot, and they have incredible zoom with very good quality...

First post, hopefully not too late, from an old 35mm film guy (amateur) finally getting into the digital realm, Imavolio..

After much reading, especially in these forums, I bought the Panasonic FZ50. While a few were considered at the time of purchase, I now have no intention of buying a DSLR in the foreseeable future. Mind you, I might go a little crazy if we win a lottery but we don't want to jinx that possibility, do we?.

The FZ50 gives you most of the size and some of the heft that come with a DSLR. At the same time, everything you need fits into a small Lowepro bag (or whatever suits your fancy) just a little bigger than the camera itself. In other words, it won't kill ya to carry the thing all day..

The first time we shot with the FZ50, we shot in the Auto or simple mode to see what the camera did with the default settings. That lasted one day. Now, we do the following in good light, which is most of the time:.

Mode: P (we let the camera set the exposure)Metering Mode: Center weightedContrast: LowSharpness: HighSaturation: Low (True-to-life colour)Noise Reduction: Low (the pictures have higher resolution)ISO: 100W. Balance: Auto, unless conditions dictate otherwiseQuality: Fine (lower compression, best JPEG picture)Image Stabilizer: Mode 2 (seems better, less battery drain)Continuous AF: Off (also saves battery power)Focus: Manual, with an explanation:.

Zoom in or out to frame your picture. With the camera's AF setting preset to Center H and the focus on the lens barrel locked into Manual, aim the center of the frame at what you want most in focus, push in the Focus button (also on the barrel) and let the camera do the focusing for you. It will do so very quickly and accurately..

With focus set, reframe your shot, depress the shutter button halfway to allow the camera to set the exposure, then shoot..

Or you can do the one-touch focus thing, reframe and just fire away if you're in a hurry..

Works almost every time and you will quickly learn when you're in backlight or contrasty situations that require some exposure compensation, something you can play around with prior to the big trip..

Somebody said RTFM. Good advice. Take the time you have left to learn as much as possible about your new camera, then take the manual with you..

In addition to the many good points made by the others here, a few more:.

With the FZ50, if you reduce the size of the JPEGs (the camera gives you 10 MP, I'm shooting in 5), you can zoom in even closer. As you lower the size to any of the EZ settings, the Panasonic gives you a corresponding bump up at the telephoto end. An in-camera crop, if you will. Beauty!.

Regardless of what you buy, if it has a really nice, fixed long zoom or expensive interchangeable lenses, spend a couple of bucks for a decent protective filter for whatever lens is involved. It's a hell of a lot cheaper to replace a scuffed-up UV than the lens or entire camera..

Visit the Panasonic Talk forum here at dpreview and look at pictures posted by Trevor Carpenter specifically and many of the accomplished others to get a good feel for what the Pany can do..

Final note My wife now has the smaller FZ8. My daughter, the FZ7. They love 'em..

Bon voyage!..

The reason I say this is that on a safari typical shooting styles are turned to longer focal lengths rather than shorter ones. While on a typical day you might shoot 95% at wide angle, on a safari you will be using the long end of your lense 95% of the time..

Either DSLR or P&S - get one with a minimum equivalent focal length of 300mm. I used a lense of equivalent focal length of 540mm and found it just about right..

Some tips for great images:.

If you are somewhat photographically challenged (meaning things like ISO and EV compensation scare you), then follow these steps and you should get great shots with relatively little effort:.

1) Remember the "1/focal length" rule. If you are shooting at the longest focal length of 500mm, make sure you use at least 1/500s shutter speed. Increase the ISO or decrease the aperture number until you achieve this, or use Image Stabilization at a shutter speed you know works. This is easy to practice outdoors any day of the week..

2) Shoot in RAW if at all possible. Any small (or large) exposure or white balance mistake can be easily fixed when you get home..

3) Take multiple shots of the same subject. Perhaps keep your camera in the "multi-shot" mode. There can be a big difference between the first shot and the third shot when a lion is yawning..

4) Be photo-aggressive when snapping pictures. Don't be afraid to butt up against someone else "to get that great shot." You're only there once (likely) and don't feel like you should give anyone their space - you both paid for that darn space so take advantage of it..

5) Lastly, try and take two cameras if you end up buying a DSLR. If you have your telephoto lense on your camera, you shouldn't need to hassle with changing lenses for a single wide angle shot when the time comes. Take a small P&S if possible (even a crummy one) so that at least you capture the picture..

Remember to have fun and don't let the photographs run your life. Often I find that you miss a lot of what's going on because you're stuck behind the viewfinder. Take a step back every now and then and enjoy the remote areas that you will be..

FYI, I went on a safari in Tanzania in Mikumi.Tim'Be the change you wish to see in the world.' -Mahatma Gandhihttp://www.flickr.com/photos/timskis6/..

My opinion is that DSLR will give you at least the quality of P&S and in most cases it will give much better results..

Nowadays all those superzooms almost exlusively use 1/2.5" sensors and megapixel wars force manufacturers to sqeeze into it up to 10 megapixels. Results are simply horrible. Even at ISO100 noise reduction removes small details, image gets some kind of "plastic" look, at ISO200 picture becoms hardly useful. Take a good look at full sized sample pictures of high pixel count superzooms, posted on this site..

Compare it to any of entry level DSLR sample images. Well, if you won't see the difference at full size god for you  I can see tremendous IQ improvement on any DSLR even with their cheap kit lenses..

Also I disagree, that you need special skills and knowledge to take a good picture with DSLR. No. It is as easy as with any automatic P&S. All DSLRs have automatic modes and all entry level DSLRs have preset modes for portraits, landscapes, sports, etc. Those modes in fact just sets shutter speed and aperture based on selected mode, but they are really helpful for newbies and require no knowledge in photography whatsoever. Some DSLRs also have very nice Auto ISO implementation (I know that Pentax and Nikon has that, don't know about other brands) which increases ISO when this is really needed (for example shutter speed is becoming too long to handheld camera)..

Yesterday we've had a little pickinck and my 6 years old relative took my DSLR to "snap some cool pictures". Of course she has zero knowledge how to take photos so I set camera to Automatic mode, demonstrated how to look through viewfinder and how to press shutter release button..

Well, most of her pictures were very badly composed (she even had problem with holding camera steady) and not interesting subjects, but after all she got some shots like these (no PP at all, some people also say that pictures out of DSLR are dull and must be post-processed):.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

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Not bad for a six years old, right? .

Edvinas..

I think a superzoom PS is a wonderful choice. Light, no lens to change, long zoom, stabilized. Picture quality will be fine and very adequate to record memories of trip..

The best thing I can recommend to improve picture quality is a bean bag, for example a POD, which allows you to steady camera on top of Safari van..

Good luckJohn..

No camera will give you "automatically" better pictures than another one. You can buy a $4000 professional DSLR and $10,000 worth of lenses and still come back with mostly lousy pictures if you fail to learn about 1) the basics of photography and 2) the operation of the camera you are going to take along. A camera is a tool, and so are the lenses. Better cameras and lenses are less likely to get in the way - i.e. prevent you from taking the photo you had imagined -, but require that you know what you are doing and are familiar with their use..

So irrespective of what camera you end up taking with you, make sure to read up on composition, point of view, light, exposure, contrast, focussing and depth of field as the bare minimum..

Once you have done this, ponder the following: a bridge camera - one that sits between point-and-shoots and DSLRs - with a long zoom ratio can give you a fast, sharp, stabilised lens (the Panasonic Lumix FZ-50 comes to mind), and can display a live histogram so you cannot go wrong with exposure, provided you understand histograms. However, a camera of this type may at times be slow to focus and it's LCD/EVF can be hard to see in bright sunlight..

A DSLR has a through-the-lens optical viewfinder, which is better than an EVF in very bright sunlight. With the right lens, it can also focus faster than a digital bridge camera, because it employs a totally different type of autofocus system. However, ultrazoom lenses designed for SLRs are either slow and of mediocre optical quality, or are big, heavy and expensive. So if buying a DSLR you would rather have to buy 2-3 lenses. This ups the cost and you also run the risk of dust accumulating on your sensor (unless you buy an Olympus DSLR because Olympus has a working solution to this), not to mention that you may miss the shot of your lifetime while changing lenses. Also, DSLRs do not, in general, offer a live histogram overlay (only the ones with LiveView do), so getting the exposure right requires you to be much more experienced.

This is going to be rather critical with long lenses..

I would say try out an ultrazoom bridge camera in bright sunlight to see if the EVF remains usable, and if it does, just go with it. But again, make sure you read up on the basics of photography *and* read the manual of the chosen camera thoroughly...

Lmavolio wrote:.

1) The Point & Shoot cameras I am looking at have either 12X or 15Xoptical zooms with image stabilization. What is the equivalent D-SLRlens I would have to buy in order to get that zoom and how much dothose lenses cost?.

You need to find the focal length to figure this out. For example, the camera should also say 20mm - 200mm in it's description. That will tell you how to find the equivalent..

2) How long does it take in order for the average (non-pro!!)photographer to pick up the basic features of a D-SLR? (i.e, do Ihave time to make this option work!!).

I think you're looking at this question the wrong way. These days a P&S can be as complicated as a DSLR. There is as much to learn with both if you want. People assume a DSLR is more complicated but it can be as simple as a P&S if you want it to be. Only difference would be changing lenses..

I've never taken serious wildlife pictures but you might consider taking a tripod or monopod with you. With a long zoom you will need stability to avoid shake. Even if you shoot in basic mode with a P&S the picture is junk if you can't hold the camera still enough - image stabilization won't fix all of it..

Misc equip : Canon 610, Canon 400D, Canon 10D (about to sell), EF 50mm f/1.8 II, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 24mm f/2.8 (not so sure about)..

On a typical Safari, you will be a Van and allowed to shoot pictures through the open roof. A tripod or monopod is useless.

Get a Beanbag!..

Jwats wrote:.

On a typical Safari, you will be a Van and allowed to shoot picturesthrough the open roof. A tripod or monopod is useless.

Get a Beanbag!.

I didn't know that. Good idea - much easier to pack too!!.

Misc equip : Canon 610, Canon 400D, Canon 10D (about to sell), EF 50mm f/1.8 II, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 24mm f/2.8 (not so sure about)..

Zoltan2 wrote:.

Just found this:http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/Safari-Tips.shtml.

Good reading, but in case you find some of the suggestions a bit over-the-top, remember the author of the above essay most likely has far more time and money than you. You can google the author's name to find out why....

Seen in a fortune cookie:Fear is the darkroom where negatives are developed..

Sure - just disregard any advice that does not suit your wallet. The others may still be worth taking..

Nickleback wrote:.

Good reading, but in case you find some of the suggestions a bitover-the-top, remember the author of the above essay most likely hasfar more time and money than you. You can google the author's nameto find out why.....

We seem to have a bimodal distribution of answers. Some argue for snapshot cams, some for SLR's..

A couple of years ago I went to the Galapagos on tour. I had a full SLR kit, a decent medium format kit, and a digital point and shoot. I took only the digital point and shoot. Many of my friends that took the same trip bought SLR's and a couple of lenses a few months before the trip and tried to learn how to use them in time..

When my friends and I met at the airport in Ecuador they were surprised I didn't have my large camera bag they always see me with. My remark: I came to enjoy the trip and not lug a large kit during the upcoming hikes. I don't regret the decision. While they were fiddling with their new cameras I was getting shots, and I didn't have to lug a heavy bag around while hiking..

If it's a vacation, go on vacation. If it's a photography trip and you're very comfortable with the camera and lenses (months of a lot of critical shooting and good feedback) you might safely opt for the SLR. In your particular case I believe I'd recommend one of the high end superzoom cameras...