Gogul wrote:.

The title says all. I have some sort of automatic bracketing onSamsung S630 but I on't like automatic exposure settings. What isusual setting for daylight photos which I can later merge to hdr ? .

Samsung S630.

Well if you want to merge, lets say 3 pics, to make a HDR-image, you will need bracketing. Unless you have a very stable tripod..

Use exposurebracketing (not focusbracketing or anything else of course) and set it to maybe +/- 1ev or +/- 2ev or something inbetween..

Simple as that..

Http://sebastianfoto.se/..

Gogul wrote:.

The title says all. I have some sort of automatic bracketing onSamsung S630 but I don't like automatic exposure settings. What isusual setting for daylight photos which I can later merge to hdr ? .

I tend to use 3 exposures in bracketing. -, even, +.

For daytime, I tend to use exposure adjustments of 0.7 for my bracketing on my Nikon D80.For nighttime I tend to use full stops for my bracketing..

Sometimes in high-key daylight, I just want a second exposure (bracket) for highlights. So I'll use flat and minus only (2 exposures)..

The MOST IMPORTANT thing to remember is to only use variable shutter speeds, NOT apertures. You can easily merge exposures. But when you change aperture, you are also (likely) changing DOF- and maybe even focal distance(?)..

Varies so much depending on your subject matter. Trial and error is not a bad idea. And yes, a stable tripod and remote..

Maybe this helps? HDR can be remarkable when you figure a workflow that works for you. Enjoy..

Cheers.Davidmy flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/prodesma/my website: http://kaptures.net/(free desktop wallpapers and Sunny 16 Chart downloads on my website).

Here's a pretty basic one:.

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This was a bit trickier, and also from a p&s camera:.

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Yup, HDR pano:.

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Very first serious attempt of mine, four exposures (light bulbs are good practice... Unlike clouds and ambient light, they don't move nor change):.

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To do hdr-.

If you put camera into full auto matrix metering, take first shot note fstop and shutter speed. put cmaera into full manual, see if camera still has the matrix fstop and shutter speed. if yes, then using shutter speed go up 2-4 shutter speeds 1 fstop worth of shutter speed at a time. the back to matrix shutter speed and go down same number of shutter speeds..

This is on a tripod with cable release..

No, you should not use 1 raw shot and convert 1 stop up and down, because their is not enough dynamic range in the 1 raw shot. dynamic range is why we are doing this, hdr is trying to get all it can..

The group of shots can be raw or jpeg. if jpeg they can be used as is. if raw remember that you HAVE to batch process all 5-9 shots. this is because the pp has to be all the same on every pic. you cannot, for example make any attempt to get the shadow details of the group of raw pics, because that would require different amounts of pp, and you cannot do that with hdr. the pp for all shots has to be identical..

For me I just shoot them in jpeg and use them from the camera, that way they are all identical because the camera jpeg settings are the same for every shot. I also put my hand streched in front of the lens and take a check shot and when done take a ending shot with hand. this tells me where the hdr group is on my memory card when I transfer to the pc..

The only important item is to bracket using shutter speeds only. if fstops are used it changes dof between shots. and shoot enough shots, 5-9 is the optimum. the only other thought is to shoot a scene that deserves the the hdr technique, too many people are shooting hdr because it is new or different or whatever. the scene for hdr should have a very wide dynamic range. this can be checked with a spotmeter on different areas..

And the scene should have no movement, if so the item will blur in the hdr image..

Do not adjust the focus. set the focus on infinity or use a hyperfocalsetup for focus..

Do not adjust the white balance for individual shots. go with awb or 1 setting and do not change it...

Wow some great tips guys. Thank you..

So that means I just have to make sure aperture value is always the same and shutter I manually adjust or just leave the dsp to take care of it ? .

Samsung S630..

For hdr manually adjust shutter. a camera may have a bracket system, but you do not know what it is adjusting. as stated in my earlier reply, take you center shot then 2-4 shots on either side of center all separated by 1 fstop worth of shutter speed change...

A lot depends on what you think "Best" might mean..

The human eye can take in about 11 stops in a particular scene. We look in the shadows and our Iris's open; we look at the highlights and our Iris's close. Meanwhile our brain remembers the rest of the scene..

This implies that if you want "realistic" HDR - Tone Mapped output you should aim towards 11-12 stops total..

I think that's what painters do; they paint what the see in the shadows and what they see in the highlights in the same painting, That's why natural looking HDR prints are said to "look like a painting.".

Dave.

PS if you push to far beyond 11-12 stops the result will "look like a watercolor;" that's because watercolorists don't have a big contrast range available on their palette...