And I guess a folllow-up question....
When using a polarizing or UV filter - should I set the WB with the filter in place, or remove it first? I assume that you'd want to set the WB unfiltered, but wanted to be sure...
Davidandrewcolegmailcom wrote:.
I caught a deal on eBay last week for a $5 'expodisc' knock-off.It's just clouded white plastic as oppossed to the fancy diffractionlens of the real expodisc..
I assume you are using a DSLR? If so, why not shoot raw, which is easierand faster than going through the custom white balance steps? I use aWhiBal gray reference standard, which I include in one of my photos underthe same lighting conditions. During raw conversion, it is a simple processto apply the reference white balance to the desired images. I have foundthe WhiBal to be dead-nuts accurate, but you can always fine-tune thewhite balance, if needed..
This is not meant to be a raw vs. jpeg argument. I just feel that whitebalance is easier and more efficient to deal with when shooting raw..
Rob.
'Don't sneak up on it - surround it'..
For JPGs, these are great. I have two, one for my EF 28-105 and one for my Tamron 70-300 LD. For $5.00 bucks each. I saved $190.00 over the Exposdisk x2).
For RAW... Just do it in DPP...remember to use the "Click White Balance" option under WB adjustment and use the dropper to click on the 18% gray card that you included in a test shot...If no 18% gray card...Click on a "WHITE" highlight (a blown highlight is good)Peter .
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Udaman wrote:.
For RAW... Just do it in DPP...remember to use the "Click WhiteBalance" option under WB adjustment and use the dropper to click onthe 18% gray card that you included in a test shot....
Yeah. I'll go along with the above comments. The advice is sound..
If no 18% gray card...Click on a "WHITE" highlight (a blown highlight is good).
But I will NOT go along with that, I'm afraid. Sorry. .
A blown highlight is NOT good for WB setting in RAW processing or JPEG adjustments either, for that matter..
Specifically, highlights that are blown suffer clipping in one or more RGB channels, and therefore do not offer an accurate set of values for adjustment relative to each other. It is this relative adjustment/equalisation that permits accurate White Balancing to take place.... Once channels have been *maxed-out* by clipping they all read the same, and the 'difference' between them that proviides the WB correction value is no longer present..
In other words... always WB your shot from an area with grey tone remaining in it. Select a very light grey (a *close to white* tone) only when you are obliged to, and are sure it is not burned-out in any channel or channels.Regards,Baz..
Set the WB with the filter in place..
If you are goint to shoot in raw as some suggest then just set the filter in place and take a picture (facing the light source/sources not facing the subject) which should give you a grey picture use that as your WB set point for the rest of the shots. Otherwise just get a grey card..
The Expodisc has all that dispersion material because it allows you to set the exposure (that's why it's called an expodisc!). It allows your camera to be used as an incident light meter (a very handy use in some situations) It has the side benifit of also allowing WB.A member of the rabble in good standing...
Ok, I have tried using "Blown Highlights" but I can't SEE the differance...But your point is well taken anyway...
90% of the time I will use well detaled white area. Using black is always a mistake..I can never find a "0" value in black area's..
Thanks againPeter .
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