Well your probably out of luck. For one you will not be allowed to use a flash. I shoot figure skating and synchronized figure skating(as well as many other sports) and one of the rules specifically is NO Flash. Also using the kit lens you are going to be shooting at ISO 1600+. Last time I shot it was at ISO 1000 with a Nikon 200mm f2.0 VR(not too cheap). Anyways I hate to burst your bubble, but it is going to be really tough to do it.
If you can get atleast 1/250th you might get some good shots, but 1/500th would be better..
Hope things work out for you..
Gigi wrote:.
Hello, I just got a Nikon D40 (my first DSLR) and would like a fewtips on taking photos at a figure skating competition in a dimly litarena. I will only have access to the built-in flash of my camera,the kit lens: 18-55mm, and a tripod. Any advice re: settings, thingsto do to prepare, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks..
Photography and Graphic DesignPortfolio - http://www.atlanticexpressinc.comPrints - http://www.atlanticexpressions.com..
Even if you could use an external flash, most flash units would probably not have enough range to effective light your subject unless you have a large, professional unit with an external battery pack. Shooting in dimly light arenas screams out for fast telephoto lenses (i.e. f/2.8 zooms or very fast primes). With your kit lens only, you will be very limited in what you can shoot as kit lenses are very slow on the long end, typically f/5.6. Your best bet will be to crank up your ISO as high as you can get it and shoot. Most of your shots will probably be underexposed but you may be able to PP them to boost the exposures (especially if you shoot in RAW).
Gigi wrote:.
Hello, I just got a Nikon D40 (my first DSLR) and would like a fewtips on taking photos at a figure skating competition in a dimly litarena. I will only have access to the built-in flash of my camera,the kit lens: 18-55mm, and a tripod. Any advice re: settings, thingsto do to prepare, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks..
JohnPentax *ist-D, K100D, Fuji F20/31fd, Oly Stylushttp://www.pbase.com/jglover..
Thank you to the both of you for your honest answers. So if I understand you two correctly, basically shoot at high ISOs and in RAW for later processing. Given the limitations of my gear, is there any particular type of shot that I could try for more success? For example, I'm thinking that if my shutter speeds are slow, would I be able to get some neat "special effects"-type shots during spins, etc.? Basically, could I work around my limitations to try some interesting things? Thanks...
Gigi wrote:.
Hello, I just got a Nikon D40 (my first DSLR) and would like a fewtips on taking photos at a figure skating competition in a dimly litarena. I will only have access to the built-in flash of my camera,the kit lens: 18-55mm, and a tripod. Any advice re: settings, thingsto do to prepare, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks..
As the other responder noted, you'll be in trouble. Even if flash weren't prohibited, and even if you have no remorse about using potentially distracting flash on performers, built-in flashes normally have quite low power and range..
To do a proper job, without, say, permission to rig the arena with additional lighting you'd want a fast telephoto (focal length range depending on seating and distances involved). You'd still likely be using quite high ISO in order to stop action with short shutter speeds. As noted by the other responder, tripods and other stabilization methods are essentially irrelevant unless we're talking about -very- long lenses, because subject motion will normally be the greater constraint..
If you want to make the most of what you have, you should think very carefully about what you -can- do..
Your main disadvantages here are.
- slow aperture, so very difficult to stop motion in low light without lots of noise;may also slow autofocus.
- short focal length, so difficult to crop closely unless you have VERY good seating.
The latter cannot be worked around by photographic technique. I would NOT recommend attempting to ameliorate it with a teleconverter because of the light loss. So, be prepared to crop a lot later on..
The former... well, here it gets interesting. Will you be able to get a sharp, high-quality stop-motion shot of a skater in mid-air? The odds are very much not in your favor. However, that's not the only shot that might be 'interesting'..
For instance, let's say that you're allowed to use that tripod (which is not something I would assume without knowing your circumstances tripods might be barred if they get in the way of others). If you take a somewhat long exposure, with the camera fixed, you could show the movement of the skater through the field of view. Maybe interesting, maybe not..
You might also have some chance of a sharp shot at the beginning and end of routines isn't it fairly traditional for a skater to pause near-motionless at the end?..
Gigi wrote:.
Thank you to the both of you for your honest answers. So if Iunderstand you two correctly, basically shoot at high ISOs and in RAWfor later processing. Given the limitations of my gear, is there anyparticular type of shot that I could try for more success? Forexample, I'm thinking that if my shutter speeds are slow, would I beable to get some neat "special effects"-type shots during spins,etc.? Basically, could I work around my limitations to try someinteresting things? Thanks..
For a skater spinning in place, you'd have enough time to focus, I'd think. An exposure with the shutter speeds you'd be likely to get would show a blurred skater in one location. Whether or not this would be interesting to you is a matter of taste. The beginning and endings of routines seem more obvious. Anything that resembles a pause these may be fairly dramatic poses, too, if you're lucky..
Yes, shoot raw. Shoot high ISO. If you want to attempt stop-motion difficult, but the marginal cost of trying is probably pretty low unless there are other shots you'd like to try at the same time use either manual or shutter-priority, or if you really prefer aperture-priority use pretty severe exposure compensation to underexpose otherwise it'll use a shutter speed that's suitable for the light level from an 18% grey perspective but is far too long for stopping motion...
Pretty much hopeless, but anyway... shoot when people are coming toward you, or have stopped moving..
Remember, everytime someone changes direction, they stop going the first way..
Don't trust your camera's meter to give you good exposure; it will take a reading off the bright (more or less) ice, and this will underexposure your pictures of peole, and the ice will turn greInstead, try to take a reading off some mid-toned costumes or even your hand if you can get it into the same light as the skaters..
BAK..
Yes, high ISO and RAW, also considering maybe investing in a monopod. It's not going to be as steady as a tripod, but it can give you a couple of extra stops over handholding your camera. Basically with your gear, it all depends on where you are seated. If you are near the ice, front row or first few rows, you may have some success getting some decent action shots if you zoom out and try to snap your images when the skaters are not moving. you can always go for the type of shots which give a feel for the atmosphere of the arena or ice rink.....use the wide end of the lens and shoot for a panoramic effect..
Again, watch your exposures...use your camera's spot metering capability.
You may also have some success in cropping your images but there will be quite a lot fo noise in your pictures most likely....but it is not like you are spending any money for each shot you take if you were using a film camera......so feel free to shoot away and experiment, digital pictures are free for the taking. If nothing else you can use this to learn how to adapt to a bad situation. Be creative in choosing your angles for your shots and try to stay withini the limits of your gear and you should get some decent images. Maybe not the action shots you desrie but you still may be able to capture some of the day..
Gigi wrote:.
Thank you to the both of you for your honest answers. So if Iunderstand you two correctly, basically shoot at high ISOs and in RAWfor later processing. Given the limitations of my gear, is there anyparticular type of shot that I could try for more success? Forexample, I'm thinking that if my shutter speeds are slow, would I beable to get some neat "special effects"-type shots during spins,etc.? Basically, could I work around my limitations to try someinteresting things? Thanks..
JohnPentax *ist-D, K100D, Fuji F20/31fd, Oly Stylushttp://www.pbase.com/jglover..
Have posted a few examples for you. 1994, Nikon f4s film (boy I am dating myself) and SB25 flash, also Nikon 8008 and SB24 flash. Lenses 28-200 I think and 35-135. Since it's been awhile, don't remeber which cam took what. Below are near full frame with side crops to 8x10. Just resized these quickly off of some work files I had handy and no final contrast adjustments here..
Photos below are exhibition conditions, not competition conditions. Competiition conditions will have the house lights up if amateur and all of those nasty advertisements on the boards. You need fast glass..
I found that it is important to know the routines solid, know when the faces will turn toward you. Best positioning for me was 3 or 4 rows up, just to the right of the left blue line as you face it. The jumps that occur at your left end will give the possibilities of better facial interest because they are coming toward you. Once they travel to the right, they are going away form you, and since the jumps/tricks etc are usually engineered to romance the crowd, when they finish off they'll likelly be facing away from you. I shot a benefit show many years ago and had access to the hockey bench area. The Russian pairs came so darned fast they just about scared the /photos/niagaragirl/..
Forgot about this one. It is full frame, Nikon F4s, Metz CT-4, 28-200 lens. This taken at ice level. As I had full premises access no problems with my gear. On jumps like this there is a little bit of a "hang time", so you shoot when things peak. Needless to say even on a jump like this, if she's got her back toward you, what's the point?.
Well just remembered I had this hanging around and thought the gentlemen would enjoy This is 1993 I think, benefit show. It is Tonia Kwiatkowski, many tmes "in the money" in USA & world competitions, and one of the best split jumpers I have ever seen. She used to do about 4 or 5 of these right in a row..
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Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill..
See my throwaways on Flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/niagaragirl/200..
Thanks to all for the tips and the grip on reality! I'm going to give it my best amateur shot and post back if I get anything of interest!..
Thanks niagaragirl...wow, those shots sure bring back memories...Fred and Herbie were my faves for such a long time! Anyway, I may be able to stand at the boards to get some shots (it's a small competition) so hopefully, I can get something that's worth posting about...
Gigi wrote:.
Fred and Herbie were my faves for such a long time!.
Then certainly you must remember this! Boy that's one ugly woman! And just where does Lloyd have that hand???.
For the forum, Lloyd and Isabelle were nicknamed Herbe and Fred. In this act they reversed gender roles for fun, although I think Lloyd just really liked to wear dresses in public .
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Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill..
See my throwaways on Flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/niagaragirl/..
Niagaragirl wrote:.
Gigi wrote:.
Fred and Herbie were my faves for such a long time!.
Then certainly you must remember this! Boy that's one ugly woman! Andjust where does Lloyd have that hand???.
For the forum, Lloyd and Isabelle were nicknamed Herbe and Fred. Inthis act they reversed gender roles for fun, although I think Lloydjust really liked to wear dresses in public .
Oh, that's a classic!!! Brings back great memories!!! Thanks for sharing...