Stefnmike wrote:.

Ok, I have been reading on line as well as my book regarding my canonrebel xti. Right now I am not trying to learn everything about thecamera. I know that will come as I get more use to it. All I want toknow right now is how to do the blurry backgrounds..

Put the camera in Av exposure mode, and set the aperture as open as possible (lowest f-numbers). The kit lens doesn't have very wide apertures, so your shots will not have really out of focus backgrounds..

Also, I have tried to take continious pics and the camera always saysbusy? I thought you could do that with this camera..

If you put the camera in continuous shooting mode, then you should be able to take several shots per second, unless you are using built in flash. The flash takes a while to recharge between each exposure..

Brian A...

Thanks!.

The flash I have is the one that comes on the camera. I need to buy a bigger flash to be able to do this continious shots? When do I know I need a bigger flash? I mean...how do I know the flash I have is not enough for the pics I am taking? Make since?..

Stefnmike wrote:.

I need to buy abigger flash to be able to do this continious shots?.

It isn't the size of the flash, but the shorter recycle time of an external flash that makes a difference. Even with an external flash, your shooting rate will be limited..

The built-in flash has a small capacitor (to shore the flash charge) and also shares power with the camera's battery. An external flash has it's own battery and it's larger capacitor can sometimes hold enough charge for several shots; providing it isn't forced to shot at full power..

Continuous shooting and flash photography really don't work too well together. Even an external flash can overheat if used frequently over a short period of time. However, raising the ISO to 400, will allow the flash to use half as much light as ISO 100, and will reduce the recycle time..

When do I know Ineed a bigger flash? I mean...how do I know the flash I have is notenough for the pics I am taking?.

The built in flash is rated with a guide number of about 14 (GN14). That means it should produce enough light at ISO 100 and a theoretical f/1.0 for a good exposure at up to 14 metres (think yards if you are from the US)..

To get the maximum distance for non-theoretical f-stops, you simply dive the f-stop you want to use into the GN. For example, if you are using f/4, the range of the built in flash is about 3.5 metres (about 12 feet)..

The Canon 430ex external flash unit has a GN of 43 meters, the 580ex has a GN of 58 metres. These figures are again assuming ISO 100 and f/1.0. For the external flash units, Canon rates them at a focal length of 105 mm (on a full frame camera). It takes more light to cover wider angle, So for example, the 580ex with a lens at 80 mm (at 50 mm on your camera), will have a maximum range of 42 metres..

Brian A...

Stefnmike wrote:.

I need to buy a bigger flash to be able to do this continious shots? When do Iknow I need a bigger flash?.

Most of the time the built in flash is good enough for pictures up to about 15 feet or so if flash is the main lighting source. If it's used for fill-in light to get rid of shadows in daylight, you might get a little more range..

If you need continuous shooting you'll need to: not use the built-in flash, or buy an external flash like the 430ex, or accept you'll only get one shot every 4-6 seconds. I rarely need continuous and flash at the same time..

The other advantage is that the bigger flashes give you more range. Instead of a 15 foot distance, they can cover ~45-60 feet.'Be right, fearless, faithfull, and true to others...'T.S. Elliott..

The other thing to think about when trying to get the out of focus backgrounds is how far away from the object you want in focus is and the objects you want out of focus are. For example: if the object you want in focus is towards the infinity end of the lenses focus then other objects at infinity will likely be in focus. If the object you want in focus is close and the background is far away you stand a better chance of getting the blurred background..

So, try to find an object that is isolated (nothing close by) and take a picture of it (or part of it) at the minimum focus length of your lens and as wide open as the lens goes. Move a little bit away and take another picture, and repeat until you have reached the infinity distance of the lens. This should give you some pictures to compare..

The manual that came with the lens should also describe the depth of field (dof) scale (it looks something like: 22 16 8 4 4 8 16 22) and how to use it. Basically if you look at the distances on the focus ring it will tell you what will appear in focus at different aperture settings.

I hope this made sense....

Mike..

Attach your new 50mm f/1.8 lens. Set the ISO to 200. Set the camera to aperture priority (Av), and set the aperture to 1.8. Do not use the flash. Select a person to photograph who is several feet from the background (a wall, or whatever). Get close enough to the subject that you fill the frame with his or her head and shoulders.

If the shutter speed is less than 1/50th of a second, increase the ISO to 400. If the shutter speed is still less than 1/50th of a second, increase the ISO to 800. Focus on the subject's eyes and take the photograph. I guarantee that the background will be out of focus..

Then reread your manual, practice, reread the manual, and practice some more. Before long, this will be so automatic that you won't even need to think about it..

Jerryhttp://jchoate.zenfolio.com/..

BuffaloMike wrote:.

The other thing to think about when trying to get the out of focusbackgrounds is how far away from the object you want in focus is andthe objects you want out of focus are. For example: if the objectyou want in focus is towards the infinity end of the lenses focusthen other objects at infinity will likely be in focus. If theobject you want in focus is close and the background is far away youstand a better chance of getting the blurred background..

Good point, Mike, and one that I was about to mention just as you jumped into the fray..

As someone who prefers to fill the frame with the subject or a portion of the subject, blurry backgrounds have never been a problem..

Stefnmike, if you move in or zoom in on the cup, your principal point of focus, and the tree in the background is back a bit, it will just naturally wind up blurred. You really don't need much of the tree in the picture if you're hoping to have it drastically out of focus. Fill the frame with the kids at the beach, use the long end of your zoom and what you're hoping to achieve should be a natural consequence.OakvilleMike..

As Hugowolf stated, your kit lens doesn't have a wide enough aperture to get the creamy/blurry backgrounds you are looking for. Follow the later instructions for your 50 1.8 and you'll see a significant difference..

Above all, keep reading, keep practicing. Read things over and over and over again until they sink in. I've been shooting with an XT and now a 30d for almost 2 years and things are really coming together. I find myself going back to certain reference/educational materials over and over again. One in particular might be of use to you, get the Blue Crane Digital DVD for your camera. These were invaluable to me, and I've reviewed them several times..

Http://www.bluecranedigital.com/XTi.htm.

Good luck and happy Shooting!.

JO.

P.S. - the manual that comes with the camera is almost worthless for the purposes of actually learning how to use the camera. Much more difficult to use than the DVD!..

TRY THIS WEB SITE FOR PHOTO INFO-http://www.shortcourses.com/the one to read is the 3rd one down..

On the subject of getting the subject in focus and nothing or little else. the lower numerically you go in fstops the less you are going to have in focus, in front of and behind the subject..

For shutter speed as you go to shorter shutter speeds the more motion stopping power you have..

But remember that if you want the subject in focus and nothing else, and you use your 50mm f1.8 at 1.8 you have to use a very fast shutter speed to offset all the light the lens is letting in. so use the lowest iso you have set the camera to aperature priority and use f1.8. THEN check to see if the camera can use a fast enough shutter speed; if it can't you will get some kind of overexpose warning, read the manual for info on that. if you do get the warning then you will have to reduce the amount of light going to the sensor by useing a polorizing filter or a neutral density filter...

Any of the following will make the background more blurred:.

- Bigger aperture (i.e. lower f-stop)..

- Subject closer to lens - makes more difference than you might expect..

- Background further away..

- Longer lens (even if you have to move away from to subject to preserve the framing you want, this still works)..

So for maximum blur, position your subject so the background is far away; use your widest aperture and zoom right in to your longest focal length; move as close to the subject as you can without zooming out..

You may find, for example, that you can't do a full length portrait with a blurred background, but you can do head and shoulders...

1/ get the main subject as far as possible from the background..

2/ Set the camera on P for program, point it at the subject, press the shutter relase part way, and rotate the wheel on the camera until the aperture number in the viewfinder will not get any smaller..

3/ press the shutter release the rest of the way..

You're done..

If you do this with your new f1.8 50mm lens, quit adjusting the wheel when you get to f2.2..

BAK..

You folks on this board are awesome! Thank you so much for every ones help. Once I get my other lens I will definately try every thing you all said..

One more question (for now. ha!) How in the world do I change the shutter speed?..

Set the ISO and the camera will set the shutter speed. That's the easiest way to use your DSLR (really it is)..

It won't take long at all for you to get a better understanding of the relationships between aperture, shutter speed and ISO..

Try not to use the built in flash unless you have to. .

Gene..

How can I prevent from using the built in flash if it pops up automatically?..

Read your manual and web-based guides to photography. You should become familiar with the basics of using your camera before you worry about advanced topics. Read a few pages, take a few pictures, read a few more pages, take more pictures, and so on. The beauty of digital is that it does not cost anything to experiment. Good luck!.

Jerryhttp://jchoate.zenfolio.com/..

There is probably a menu setting to prevent it..

Gene..

Ok, I got my 50mm 1.8. YEAH! I put my camera on the settings you said and yep...there was my blurred background. As I am still learing and reading SO MUCH It did not click that this was not a zoom lens. First of all I am so use to zooming with a button on my old camera, then I get my new camera in with the kit lens and I zoom with my hands on the lens. Well, I get my 50mm and I am saying to myself "ok...where do I zoom" LOL! Now, I understand why you can't fit very many subjects in a 50mm. You must use the zoom for that..

So, here is my next question. Is there a lens that I can buy that zooms, but still gives me the great background blur? I want to be able to get more subjects in the picture, but still have that blur. I am learing more about what makes that blur ,but I just need to know a good zoom lens I guess. Here is an example of a picture I would wan to take at the beach...My parents walking down the beach holding my 2 daughers hands, but having the beach a little blurred in the background. make since?.

Does any one prefer a fixed lens over a zoom?..

Stefnmike wrote:.

I understand why you can't fit very manysubjects in a 50mm. You must use the zoom for that..

50 mm is the focal length; "zoom" refers to a lens which can change it's focal length, such as 18-55mm. And the importance of focal length is that it decides the field of view. Lower focal length = wider field of view. (That's on a given camera, because sensor size affects it too.).

But it's wrong to say you must use zoom - the other option is to get further from your subject. This is sometimes humorously referred to as "sneaker zoom", and is notable for being the lowest cost add-on in all of photography. But joking apart - use the longer lens, get further from your subject, and see what that does for background blur....

So, here is my next question. Is there a lens that I can buy thatzooms, but still gives me the great background blur? I want to beable to get more subjects in the picture, but still have that blur. Iam learing more about what makes that blur ,but I just need to know agood zoom lens I guess. Here is an example of a picture I would wanto take at the beach...My parents walking down the beach holding my 2daughers hands, but having the beach a little blurred in thebackground. make since?.

I would encourage you to re-read my previous post in this thread - the answer to exactly that question is there..

Does any one prefer a fixed lens over a zoom?.

Depends what you're doing. Fixed focal length lenses (known as 'primes') offer larger apertures, lower cost and very high image quality. Zooms offer convenience and versatility...

Wow...so much to take in. Once I think I might have it a little bit figured out...nope, I am back to square one. LOL!.

Is there a particular longer lens you prefer? There are so many..

Thanks!..

Stefnmike wrote:.

Is there a particular longer lens you prefer? There are so many..

From your previous post it sound like you wanted to get more in the shot, ie a shorter focal length than a longer one?.

There are plenty of longer focal length lenses, but they tend to get more expensive the longer they get. Canon fixed focal length lenses can have apertures as wide as f/1.2, the largest aperture zooms Canon makes are f/2.8. Although zooms do not have such wide maximum apertures as fixed focal length lenses, they would give you more flexibility than a prime, and with a longer focal length you can blur backgrounds at smaller apertures..

What focal length did you use most often with your P&S camera?.

Brian A...

I had the Panasonic Lumix camera before...this is what is says about the zoom:.

"The Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ5 is a 5-megapixel digital camera with a high-quality Leica 12x optical zoom. The Leica DC Vario-Elmarit 12x zoom is equivalent to a 36 - 432mm zoom on a 35mm camera with a F2.8 to F3.3 maximum aperture.".

I am trying to accomplish the blurred background w/out being so close to the subject. For example...like walking up a path in a garden...with me being at one end of the path and the subjects walking towrad me from the other end w/the flowers blurred in the background. Make since?.

I have just read so much lately it just seems to all run together. I need to try and focus on one thing and learn one thing at a time. I think b/c I am going to the beach in a week...I am trying to learn more than I can w/the amount of time I have. that is why I have asked so many questions trying to figure out what I need w/out taking the time to really read and understand it...

Stefnmike wrote:.

Is there a particular longer lens you prefer? There are so many..

Buying another lens won't solve the problem. Learning to use the equipment you have is a much better idea..

So read my first post (again) and go try it for yourself...

Stefnmike wrote:.

"The Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ5 is a 5-megapixel digital camera with ahigh-quality Leica 12x optical zoom. The Leica DC Vario-Elmarit 12xzoom is equivalent to a 36 - 432mm zoom on a 35mm camera with a F2.8to F3.3 maximum aperture.".

The actual focal lengths of this lens are 6-72 mm, because of the sensor size of the camera, this is equivalent to 36-432 mm on a 35 mm full frame camera..

If you look at the EXIF information of the shots you took with the camera and find out what sort of focal length you find yourself using, then you have a starting place for a lens search. You would multiply the actual focal length by 6, to get the 35 mm equivalent, but since you are using a 1.6x cropped sensor, then multiplying by 3.75 would get you the equivalent on your camera..

But I would advise you to work with what you have, at least until you know what you are doing..

I am trying to accomplish the blurred background w/out being so closeto the subject. For example...like walking up a path in agarden...with me being at one end of the path and the subjectswalking towrad me from the other end w/the flowers blurred in thebackground. Make since?.

Yes, it makes sense, but there are a few ways to achieve this, all combinations of largish apertures, separation of subject(s) to background, and focal length..

I need to try and focus on one thing and learn one thing at a time..

I would agree with this..

I have askedso many questions trying to figure out what I need w/out taking thetime to really read and understand it..

Not only reading and learning, but practicing and reevaluating. Looking at the results of what you have done and experimenting by varying the parameters. Reading and understanding are only part of the picture, if you will excuse the pun, you really need to try things out and see what works and what doesn't..

If you add another lens at this point, I think you will confuse the issue even more. The beach will be there next year..

Brian A...

I appreciate the help you have given me, but telling me to go away is not very nice. I am in a beginners forum and from my understanding this was the place to ask the questions. If you do not like to see my post, that is fine, don't respond, but there is no need in being rude..

Thanks to every one...

Stefnmike wrote:.

I appreciate the help you have given me, but telling me to go away isnot very nice. I am in a beginners forum and from my understandingthis was the place to ask the questions. If you do not like to see mypost, that is fine, don't respond, but there is no need in being rude..

Stef, I don't think Steve is being "rude," but I wouldn't be surprised if he's getting a bit frustrated..

You seem to be having a problem absorbing the info and help being offered in *this* thread, yet you've started many others in the Beginner's Forum. No wonder you're having a tough time keeping track of everything. Keep it simple. One thing at a time, or_you_risk_losing_credibility..

I have to say you blew my mind when you mentioned that you *had* the Panasonic FZ5. If you had taken the time to learn what *it* was capable of doing, chances are you wouldn't be here asking a million questions about your Canon. You'd already know most of the answers.mm (Panasonic FZ50, Ricoh XR-2)..

As Mike quite rightly said, I'm not being rude, I'm telling you plainly and simply what you *need to do* if you are going to benefit from the advice you've had. Several things you have said have told me that you very likely haven't picked up the camera and tried any of this. Nobody here minds helping, but you have to do your bit too...

Stefnmike wrote:.

So, here is my next question. Is there a lens that I can buy thatzooms, but still gives me the great background blur?.

You had it. On the FZ5. Next question...

All I am trying to do is absorb as much as I can in a short amount of time b/c I am leaving soon. I don't have time to sit and learn everything I need to know. I thought I could come here and get a simple answer. That is all. Of course when I get back...I will definately have time to read and read and read and practice, practice. SteveBalcobe stated that I have not tried or practiced with the info I have been given...not true.

It is just all so confusing and I am trying to understand it. It is hard to understand if I have never once tried to figure out a camera....until now..

As for the Panasonic camera. I never did anything with that other that pull it out and take pics with it on the automatic mode. Simply b/c I have never wanted to do photography. I just took it out and snapped, printed the pics and I was done. Nothing more, nothing less..

As for the other post...it has not been about this subject (i dont think). It has been regarding where to have pics developed, a good camera bag, good site to order from...etc..

I apologize if you think I am not doing my part, or trying to. I really am. I appreciate all the help. thanks again to all of you...

Stefnmike wrote:.

All I am trying to do is absorb as much as I can in a short amount oftime b/c I am leaving soon. I don't have time to sit and learneverything I need to know. I thought I could come here and get asimple answer. That is all. Of course when I get back...I willdefinately have time to read and read and read and practice,practice. SteveBalcobe stated that I have not tried or practicedwith the info I have been given...not true.

It is just all so confusing and I am trying tounderstand it. It is hard to understand if I have never once tried tofigure out a camera....until now..

As for the Panasonic camera. I never did anything with that otherthat pull it out and take pics with it on the automatic mode. Simplyb/c I have never wanted to do photography. I just took it out andsnapped, printed the pics and I was done. Nothing more, nothing less..

As for the other post...it has not been about this subject (i dontthink). It has been regarding where to have pics developed, a goodcamera bag, good site to order from...etc..

I apologize if you think I am not doing my part, or trying to. Ireally am. I appreciate all the help. thanks again to all of you..

Yes, it's hard to understand it all at once, and btw, be careful on the beach. Cameras don't like sand very much...

I was with you. I remember it by use A mode and small number. Also a close up lens really helps.Also the fuzzy background is called Bokeh..

And the best Bokeh I've ever gotten in on my R4 which is a pocket camera and fully auto. Awesome macro cameraLGhttp://www.bytephoto.com/...wgallery.php?cat=998&stype=2&si=lettingg0..

Thank you all, so much. I went out and practiced yesterday at our Shakespeare Festival. Some of them turned out great, some not so great.  I did get the blurred background when I set my mode to AV...not so much when it was in automatic mode. I will be doing a lot of practicing during this week before our trip. The quality of the pics from this camera is so much different than those of my other camera. It is amazing how much clearer these are..

Again, thanks so much to all of you for your help.Stephanie..

OK, with your 50mm fixed lens, if you want more subjects in your view, you step back until they fit. Then, using your widest aperture (to get the blurred background), you (manually) focus on your subject(s). That's it!.

The blurriness is increased the longer the focal length of the lens used, the closer you are to the subject, and the wider the aperture. So, you can get the same effect with, for example, a 70-200mm zoom lens set at 200mm, wide aperture (in aperture priority mode) and used close up (but not closer than it's minimum focusing distance, usually printed on the lens somewhere)..