Evening all!.
Please allow me to pick your brains for a few minute:.
I, like many on here before me, would like to take the plunge into the DSLR market in the quest for more satisfying pictures..
Ideally, Id like the pictures to be blown up [not 100% necessary] as I'd like to make largeish prints [A1 / A2 size]..
Ill mainly be using the camera for motorsport action pictures, as well as pitlane stills and few close-ups..
If you like sport the only options you have is the canon 400Dand or the nikon D70 or D80.
My preferd make is Cannon at the moment, as I have had Cannon slimline point-and-shoots, which have been very reliable. Their lens range is also extremely widely varied, which I like. Much to choose from there!.
You right..
I have read much about the 400D, though many believe it's CMOS sensor to be uncapable of being able to process the vast ammounts of MP's which are sent through...and users have been left with grainy images when blow into huge prints. This is something which I must avoid..
Ok lets see,the nikon D70 or D80 will have also noise when you blow thad up to iso 1600 and printed at A1Some are strange believers,an sensor not capable of taking pictures based on MP.
The only drowback I see between 6 MP and 10 MP is thad the picture is softer,and produce an little more noise,meanly becouse there are more pixels on the same surface on the censor..
Afcours keep in mind thad an 6MP make it hard to print thad large.while 10MP have a bit more room for large inlargements..
So... any suggestions, or is all that about the 400D a load of bull?.
No the 400D is an fine camera just like the Nikon D80.
Are MegaPixels everything, or will a 8MP DSLR be just as good when blown-up as, say the 400D, with it's 10.2MP's?.
The diference will be verry small, 8MP or 10Mp will make no diference..
I dont want to be left with a camera which 'kinda does a bit of this and that' and fails in some areas. I dont like compromising!.
Neather Of me..
Any ideas chaps? Price-wise... 600 max Im thinking.Cheers everyone!Scott.
I recoment nikon D80 or canon 400 D based on your comment..
Demarren.Website :.
Http://www.flickr.com/photos/73737307@N00/sets/ Nikon D70s Kodak P880 Canon S3 IS Canon G7 Sony A100..
Scott french wrote:.
Evening all!Please allow me to pick your brains for a few minute:.
I, like many on here before me, would like to take the plunge intothe DSLR market in the quest for more satisfying pictures.Ideally, Id like the pictures to be blown up [not 100% necessary]as I'd like to make largeish prints [A1 / A2 size]..
Ill mainly be using the camera for motorsport action pictures, aswell as pitlane stills and few close-ups.My preferd make is Cannon at the moment, as I have had Cannonslimline point-and-shoots, which have been very reliable. Theirlens range is also extremely widely varied, which I like. Much tochoose from there!I have read much about the 400D, though many believe it's CMOSsensor to be uncapable of being able to process the vast ammountsof MP's which are sent through...and users have been left withgrainy images when blow into huge prints. This is something which Imust avoid..
So... any suggestions, or is all that about the 400D a load of bull?.
At the moment, everything you know is wrong..
1. Canon is spelled with one "c". .
2. The Canon CMOS sensors are BETTER regarding noise than their competitors sensors.3. All you need is 5-6 MP. Higher MO make the IQ worse..
Are MegaPixels everything, or will a 8MP DSLR be just as good whenblown-up as, say the 400D, with it's 10.2MP's?.
I dont want to be left with a camera which 'kinda does a bit ofthis and that' and fails in some areas..
All cameras are compromises. They all "...kinda do a bit of this and a bit of that and fail in some areas"..
I dont like compromising!.
You will eternally be unhappy..
But if you are serious, save your money and buy the biggest piece of Silicon you can afford and with the smallest number of pixels you can stand. Then buy the best piece of glass made for that camera..
It also helps if you learn how to use this equipment, as the photographer is the most important element..
Charlie DavisNikon 5700 & Sony R1CATS #25PAS Scribe @ http://www.here-ugo.com/PAS_List.htmHomePage: http://www.1derful.info'I brake for pixels...'..
Scott french wrote:.
Evening all!Please allow me to pick your brains for a few minute:.
I, like many on here before me, would like to take the plunge intothe DSLR market in the quest for more satisfying pictures.Ideally, Id like the pictures to be blown up [not 100% necessary]as I'd like to make largeish prints [A1 / A2 size]..
Ill mainly be using the camera for motorsport action pictures, aswell as pitlane stills and few close-ups.My preferd make is Cannon at the moment, as I have had Cannonslimline point-and-shoots, which have been very reliable. Theirlens range is also extremely widely varied, which I like. Much tochoose from there!I have read much about the 400D, though many believe it's CMOSsensor to be uncapable of being able to process the vast ammountsof MP's which are sent through...and users have been left withgrainy images when blow into huge prints. This is something which Imust avoid..
So... any suggestions, or is all that about the 400D a load of bull?Are MegaPixels everything, or will a 8MP DSLR be just as good whenblown-up as, say the 400D, with it's 10.2MP's?.
I dont want to be left with a camera which 'kinda does a bit ofthis and that' and fails in some areas. I dont like compromising!Any ideas chaps? Price-wise... 600 max Im thinking.Cheers everyone!Scott.
Hi.
Any dslr of 4mp or more will be fine for motorsport....IF you have the right lesnes for it. Some cameras will be better due to faster frames per second but that again is pointless if you only have a fisheye lense for example..
Canon make excellent lenses for sports...which is why Pro sports photogs use them,,,they cost thousands of dollars though. The Canon cmos sensors are good...as are the Sony 6mp chips and pretty much all other sensors made today..
If you are not going to spend thousands on pro grade Canon lenses than you can buy pretty much anything you can get your hands on and get as long and fast lenses as you can afford. I would recommend you have a look at trhe cheapest camera/best lense combination you can find...second hand even for the combination if necessary..
Go hold the Canon and if it suits you fine....just try everything you can get..
Neil..
As said before lens reach is everything. Unless you are able to shoot from press pass positions you'll probably be needing reach. Nothing shorter than 200mm. You want the lens to be as fast as possible so you have controll over backgrounds and can keep the ISO down as the light fades..
No matter which brand you go for their pro long lenses are built solid and if you check it out first you can safely buy a 2nd hand one..
Consider a TC as well, and a strong monopod. Rain geaar is a must..
Then get a camera to go on your lens. Remember you can pre-focus on a spot and shoot when the car hits that point (corner apex etc) so you don't have to get the latest greatest. If it goes well you can then upgrade the body to a nice fast pro model (again check out a 2nd hand one).
Shoot raw for the shots you want to enlarge at as low as ISO as you can get away with. Process them through a good raw converter and they'll go A1 easy...
Thanks for the replies! Much food for thought!.
It seems that the 400D is the canon standard then. A very good camera at a decent price, suiting most novices..
Ok, I'm learning Pixels aren't everything...which I suppose a lot of people are led to believe is the main importance of a normal camera [i.e point-and-click] ..
In this regard, I really like the EOS 30DI really like the 'status' screen, and the fast frame rate...the latter is basically at the top of my list..
Any thoughts on this one? It looks like a stunning piece of kit, and I'm assuming it's 8MP's would be enough for large [A1] sharp, detailed, clear action shots?.
Cheers!Scott..
It's more about having a high enough shutter speed to freeze action, and accurate focusing that's fast enough to keep up. If your subjects are motion-blurred because you're shooting poorly-lit ice hockey with an f/6.3 lens, more MP doesn't really help...
Ok, so speed is very important in my case. Based on this [shutter speed], which would you all recommend? The 400D, 30D or the D70 or D80?.
Thanks again people Scott..
Scott french wrote:.
Ok, so speed is very important in my case. Based on this [shutterspeed], which would you all recommend? The 400D, 30D or the D70 orD80?.
30D or D80. Toss-up....
Find the lens(es) you want/need and then select the body..
Charlie DavisNikon 5700 & Sony R1CATS #25PAS Scribe @ http://www.here-ugo.com/PAS_List.htmHomePage: http://www.1derful.info'I brake for pixels...'..
Your gonna want a F2.8 lens, for motor sports I'd recommend the 70-200 VR/IS or 80-200, if your on the track. Just keep in mind the 70-200 is $1600, and the 80-200 can be found for about $750. You'll also need to get pretty good at panning as well. If you've never used a DSLR or SLR for that matter it takes a lot of practice.Photography and Graphic DesignPortfolio - http://www.atlanticexpressinc.comPrints - http://www.atlanticexpressions.com..
You don't necessarily need an f/2.8 lens. you're not likely going to shoot wide open and will need the DOF to get the full car in focus. you'll also need to close down a bit on bright days anyway..
Also, if you shoot wide open, your shutter speeds will be too fast and stop too much of the motion. you want to shoot with slower shutter speeds and pan with the action. Having cars with wheels frozen in time isn't good..
The 100-400L I use is awesome for motorsports. Fast focus and if the light is poor just bump the ISO up a bit. Having IS is great and switching it to panning mode stops any up and down movement but allows side to side panning..
I'll post newer shots later this weekend..
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Djbahdow wrote:.
Your gonna want a F2.8 lens, for motor sports I'd recommend the70-200 VR/IS or 80-200, if your on the track. Just keep in mind the70-200 is $1600, and the 80-200 can be found for about $750. You'llalso need to get pretty good at panning as well. If you've neverused a DSLR or SLR for that matter it takes a lot of practice.Photography and Graphic DesignPortfolio - http://www.atlanticexpressinc.comPrints - http://www.atlanticexpressions.com.
TimColumbus, Ohiohttp://www.pbase.com/pdqgp..
As I said in my other post, the 20D is right at home. I took about 250 shots today and have maybe 1, yes 1 shot that is OOF due to camera focus error..
Http://www.pbase.com/pdqgp/auto_cross_06-16-07.
TimColumbus, Ohiohttp://www.pbase.com/pdqgp..
Excellent information there people, thanks very much!.
So would the 20D be a chearper, but a 'as-good-as' alternative to the 30D from Canon? Both seem extremely capeable systems..
Finding the right type of lens will be a pain, as Ive never done this before - so I'm relying on Canon having a large range for me to choose from..
Ive narrowed it down to those two cameras now, just need to wait for the money!.
Is there much difference between the two cameras? Im assuming the 30D superseeded the 20D..
Scott..
Scott french wrote:.
Excellent information there people, thanks very much!So would the 20D be a chearper, but a 'as-good-as' alternative tothe 30D from Canon? Both seem extremely capeable systems.Finding the right type of lens will be a pain, as Ive never donethis before - so I'm relying on Canon having a large range for me tochoose from..
Ive narrowed it down to those two cameras now, just need to waitfor the money!Is there much difference between the two cameras? Im assuming the30D superseeded the 20D..
Scott.
Yes, the 30D replaced the 20D but there isn't much difference between them. At least they didn't make the new one worse than the old one. See the 30D review on this site. Same sensor, same 5 FPS burst speed. Very good cameras, both of them. Neither one would cause you any pain (after you pay for them).Leonard Migliore..
Exclellent, I'm now sold on that 30D then! I just bought the Mag: DSLR Review, which had 10 Top selling DSLR's in it, all within the 700 price bracket. The 30D got an exclellent write-up, so i'll be going with that one [when funds allow!] Me and my hobbies, honestly!.
I had a go of the 400D and the 350D, and I was so surprised about how different the two machines 'felt' to handle. I definately preferd my old 'first choice', the 400D. Much more comfortable, and felt a little more sturdier and well made. Needless-to-say, both cameras seemd very good..
Thanks for all your help people, I'm sure it wont take me long before i'm back here saying 'where's the cheapest I can get a 30D body and decent lens from?!'.
Scott..
Scott french wrote:.
Thanks for all your help people, I'm sure it wont take me longbefore i'm back here saying 'where's the cheapest I can get a 30Dbody and decent lens from?!'.
Glad you made a decision. Don't bother us when you get ready to purchase. Google it...! .
Charlie DavisNikon 5700 & Sony R1CATS #25PAS Scribe @ http://www.here-ugo.com/PAS_List.htmHomePage: http://www.1derful.info'I brake for pixels...'..