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Narrowing Down My dSLR Options
I am currently using a DMC-FX9 and I love it. I want to upgrade to a camera that gives me more manual control. Back in the day Ive only owned Minolta Maxxum SLRs..

I would like a dSLR that has image stabilization built into the body, not the lenses. From what Ive seen, the Canon 30 and XTi are the best IQ at speeds above 400 which I like.. But the IS in in the lenses and those are some pricey lenses..

My current P&S is 6MP, and I finally realized that these pics are totally large enough to print 18x24 if I like, so Im not necessarily needing to upgrade my sensor count. I just want the best IQ with a stabilized body..

Can someone help me narrow down my choices?.

Thanks..

Btw, I was initally considering the DMC-FZ50 by Panasonic, and as much as I like the idea of an all in one with a zoom equal to a 420mm, the noise was an issue for me..

Dog is my copilot...

Comments (18)

Just to clarify, Im basically looking to find out which DSLRs have IS in the body...

Sorry if I was too verbose above to relay that properly..

Dog is my copilot...

Comment #1

LiveSquid wrote:.

Just to clarify, Im basically looking to find out which DSLRs have ISin the body...

Olympus E-510Pentax K10D and it's rebadged relative: Samsung GX-10Pentax K100D and K100D SuperSony A100..

Comment #2

LiveSquid wrote:.

I am currently using a DMC-FX9 and I love it. I want to upgrade to acamera that gives me more manual control. Back in the day Ive onlyowned Minolta Maxxum SLRs..

I would like a dSLR that has image stabilization built into the body,not the lenses. From what Ive seen, the Canon 30 and XTi are the bestIQ at speeds above 400 which I like.. But the IS in in the lensesand those are some pricey lenses..

Given that you've been using Minolta Maxxum film SLRs, you might want to look into the Sony A100 (or the discontinued Minolta Maxxuum 5D and 7D). You would be able to reuse your existing Minolta auto-focus lenses on the new body (with the usual 1.5x crop factor shift towards a telephoto field-of-view)..

As far as new lenses go, I would recommend that you compare the prices of non-image-stabilized Minolta (Sony) lenses against the prices of image-stabilized Nikon and Canon equivalents, before making conclusions about which system has higher lens costs...

Comment #3

Good idea..

I dont have any of my Minolta old lenses (everything was lost in Katrina) so I'll be starting from scratch. I mentioned the Maxxum to give an idea of what Ive used before..

Ive looked at the A100 and the 7D, but it's hard for me to compare the IQ...

Thanks for helping, you guys..

Dog is my copilot...

Comment #4

The Olympus E-510 with Two-Lens Kit is a great value for it's many features. It has the most effective dust reduction technology, Anti-Shake sensor, 10 MP, very compact, sharp lenses from edge to edge and Live View. The reviews have been great and I can't disagree with any of them. It has been wonderful so far!.

Olympus E-1, E-510, 7-14, 14-54, 50-200, 50 Macro, TC, ET, FL-50, Ring Flash.

Favorite Images: http://www.myfourthirds.com/folder.php?id=1912.

Best, John S...

Comment #5

Keep in mind that body type IS is good for 1-2 f stops and Lens bases IS is good for 3-4 f stops. That's a substancial difference. With my 55-200VR lens I can shoot 200mm @ 1/60 sec. with very sharp results! You can't do that with body IS.Ron.

D4018-5555-200VR50mm f1.8SB400..

Comment #6

Saying that In-Body IS only gives 1-2 stops is utter BS. Go post that same statement in the KM, Pentax, Sony or Oly forums and see what kind of response you get. I get at least 2-3 noticeably with all of my lenses. Not bad considering it is only a $100 investment over the Oly E-410 without IS. Now all five of my great lenses have some sort of IS compared to premium prices on individual Canikon IS lenses. I think I will stick with In-Body.

Hope it's true!!.

Olympus E-1, E-510, 7-14, 14-54, 50-200, 50 Macro, TC, ET, FL-50, Ring Flash.

Favorite Images: http://www.myfourthirds.com/folder.php?id=1912.

Best, John S...

Comment #7

If your an Oly guys, that's great. As a D40 owner I'm used to getting bashed in the Nikon forum, so I don't care to criticize anybody choice if instrument. Nearly every review I've read that say don't bother with the E410, just go for the E510 for the hundred dollar diff. Mechanical vs. electronis IS. I can't speak to rumours of upcomming models.

I do know that atricles I've read claim that Body IS is not as good as lens IS. For one thing, body IS can't compensate equally for wide and telephoto lenses. You have to admit that's just logical. Today I took some shot at @ 180mm with a shutter speed of 1/60 sec. @ 200 iso.

I'm curious. LOLRon.

D4018-5555-200VR50mm f1.8SB400..

Comment #8

I have used my Oly DZ 50-200 2.8-3.5 (100-400 equv.) with an Oly E-1 for almost four years now and know it's limitations and strengths very well such as what shutters I can get away with handheld and with a monopod. Once I started shooting with the E-510 body my success rate was MUCH better. I did a shoot recently (exotic animals) from a large moving truck (in not so great light) and was surprised how many tack sharp shots there were out of the bunch. I for one am convinced!!.

Olympus E-1, E-510, 7-14, 14-54, 50-200, 50 Macro, TC, ET, FL-50, Ring Flash.

Favorite Images: http://www.myfourthirds.com/folder.php?id=1912.

Best, John S...

Comment #9

Ron LHeureux wrote:.

Keep in mind that body type IS is good for 1-2 f stops and Lens basesIS is good for 3-4 f stops. That's a substancial difference. Withmy 55-200VR lens I can shoot 200mm @ 1/60 sec. with very sharpresults! You can't do that with body IS..

This is completely non-true..

With my K10D I can get 100% sharp handheld shots at 200mm and 1/15 sec. Most of 1/8 sec. shots are also sharp..

At 320mm I am able to get 100% sharp handheld shots when shutter speed is 1/30 sec. Most of 1/15 sec shots are also sharp..

I have steady hands and usually I am able to break that 1/focal length rule by 1-2 f-stops, however 1/15 sec. @200mm is whole 4 f-stops longer than 1/250 sec..

So, IMHO, in-body stabilisation works good enough .

Edvinas..

Comment #10

Ron LHeureux wrote:.

I do know that atricles I've read claim that Body IS is not as goodas lens IS..

Usually written by someone who does not have in body stabilisation..

For one thing, body IS can't compensate equally for wide.

And telephoto lenses. You have to admit that's just logical..

Well ...no actually... The shutter speed is not as slow but it is just as many stops....

Hand holding is comfortable..(ie do not need to make a special effort or even think much about it) for me with my lowly pentax K100d at 1/30 with teles (but can often go much slower). With wide angles it is comfortable for me at 1/8...though again if I think about it and and make an efoort I get slower...down to half a second..

Today I.

Took some shot at @ 180mm with a shutter speed of 1/60 sec. @ 200iso. I don't know how that compare to your cameras ability. I'mcurious. LOLRon.

D4018-5555-200VR50mm f1.8SB400.

Ok how about hand held iso 200 at 510mm (765mm equiv) at 1/13 And I would not use this speed at this focal length I would just up the iso a little..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Look.... it is just bs to say one is better than the other...both work very well,,,and again...if someone elses system can go slower than mine...great...all I need to know is mine works so well that I often do not have to think about it..

Neil.

Link back to flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/26884588@N00/..

Comment #11

While in-camera IS does sound good on the surface, and may very well be as good as in-lens IS, a lot of it comes down to what do you want to shoot. If you do a lot of wide angle shooting, IS (in any flavor) isn't as important as it is if you shoot more towards the long end..

Also, if you plan on doing a lot of low light shooting and need fast glass, you REALLY should compare the lens offerings before buying anything. I have a friend who bought a Sony A-100 and wants to shoot her daughter's basketball games. She really needs a fast lens. I was shocked when I looked for a lens that was comparable to my Nikon 70-200 f2.8 VR lens. Even without the image stabilization in the lens, the closest equivalent lens was about $500 more than what mine cost..

INow true, this was a new Sony branded lens, and an older KM lens might be had cheaper. But you should do the research on lenses you might want before making the jump..

Just my two cents worth.Chefziggyhttp://www.pbase.com/chefziggy/lecream..

Comment #12

Yes, the price of that Sony 70-200 f/2.8 lens has been commented on before. It really is a bad joke compared to the phenomenal 70-200 VR, one of the best lenses Nikon has ever produced. Seems like Sony give you in-body IS - then overcharge you for their lenses..

And it's simply not true to say that all the Nikon VRs are expensive, the good 55-200 VR for under $250 disproves that..

Alex.

Http://akiralx.smugmug.com/..

Comment #13

If I had a 510mm lens, I'd bet out shooting instead of chatting online!Ron.

D4018-5555-200VR50mm f1.8SB400..

Comment #14

First, I'm no expert, just a novice photographer..

I had been using an Oly E-10 for the past couple of years but recently bought a Oly E-510 with the 2 lens kit. So far, I really like the camera and lenses. My friend recently bought a Rebel XTi and an IS lenses (sorry, can't remember the focal length, does 100mm with macro sound right?). She is also very pleased with both camera and lens..

However, when I compare the size and weight of her camera and lens to mine, I'm really glad I have IS in the body and not the lens. My lenses are considerably more compact and lighter than hers. I believe it makes me better able to have more stable hand-held shots before you even factor in the IS. The lighter weight/less bulk was also nice since I was carrying it all day, every day for two weeks on my vacation earlier this month..

I paid less for my Oly with 2 lenses than she paid for her Rebel with 1 lens...

Comment #15

Ron LHeureux wrote:.

If I had a 510mm lens, I'd bet out shooting instead of chatting online!Ron.

D4018-5555-200VR50mm f1.8SB400.

Me to.....

I have an old 300mm manual focus 2.8 lens and I add a 1.7x auto focus adapter to get 510mm auto focus lens. Havng said that with the Pentax you could buy an old manual focus 500mm mirror lens for a few bucks and use that stabilised.

Neil..

Comment #16

I'm planning on buying the Kenko Pro 300 series 1.4 teleconverter to use with my 55-200 VR lens. That will give me some descent longer shots. I hope, eventually, to get the Nikon 70-300VR lens. That would be something with the 1.4 teleconverter! Anyhow, my new laptop/camera bag came today. Got to ease up on the lens lust! Cheers!Ron.

D4018-5555-200VR50mm f1.8SB400..

Comment #17

In your shoes a little less than a year ago...and then the A100 was a good value (brand new Sony DSLR). Today it is a steal. The image quality is outstanding, the features are rich and ergonomicly handling is easy and comfortable. Conrtrols well laid out. Build is solid. I have been happy (7000 shots later..still learning still growing).

The information is there, and at those settings you can contol the amount of noise in post processing. One can never recover the information after it is prosessed in camera (and in the case of noise even with RAW). Cleans up easy in Neat Image. That is the only real weakness you will see in reviews (noise at high ISOs) and it is blown out of proportion. I have used 800 with no problem.

Yes there is good glass (Carl Ziess 16-80) available when you reach that level. I have even purchased lenses from 1985( aka beercan 70-210 and 50 f1.70) on E-bay that give outstanding results on this camera.These lenses are now stabalized and it works! The kit lens will be fine. Good luck.John Y.

'You never know what you CAN see'..

Comment #18


This question was taken from a support group/message board and re-posted here so others can learn from it.

 

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