First off, the 60mm af-d lens does not have a built in motor but instead depends on a screw drive motor located in most bodies. As you might figure out after reading the first sentence, the d40 bodies do not have the motor. Not a major disaster that your lens won't auto-focus as with macro work you will usually want to manual focus due to the limited depth of field. Typically in macro work you want to manipulate aperture to get a larger or smaller depth of field (dof). Smaller aperture number = larger aperture, smaller dof. On a d70 you lock the aperture ring on the largest number and manipulate the aperture from the body (i usually use aperture mode "A")..

Get out and play with lens taking some pictures changing the aperture from the extremes to the middle etc and look at the results. There is also an excellent book "understanding exposure" that ties the iso, aperture, and shutter speed together very well (i think brian peterson wrote it)..

Hope this helps (and is correct...)..

When I move the apeture ring I get the following on screen:.

Lock lens aperture ring at minimum aperture (largest f/- number).

This happens no matter which setting the main dial is on..

What is the best setting for the main dial & aperture when trying to capture insect details ? .

Cheers.

SteveW..

Set the dial to f22 (or whatever the largest # is) and there should be a tab to move right next to the aperture ring to lock it in. The best aperture is hard to tell. Try adjusting the aperture in A mode to the largest (f4 or whatever) middle say f11, and smallest f22 or whatever and look at the results. you will notice less of the scene in focus the the larger apertures (smaller #'s). Selecting aperture is the difference between a snapshot and a photograph ..

You're situation is the reason why the D40 and D40X are problem cameras..

For most people, with most current Nikon lenses, everything works fine..

You, however, chose to buy a professional and very specialized lens, and are suffering from Nikon's design decision..

Can you take the lens back, and buy a lens with AF-S in the name? Thenyou can add a screw-on close up lens (looks like a filter) and take excellent closeups, anyway..

BAK..

Classic12 wrote:.

I have just purchased a Nikon d40x and an AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8 D..

Simple question what do I do with it..

I want to zoom into insects flowers etc and capture the minutedetails..

The word "zoom" is a little out of place here. This is a fixed focal length lens (60mm) and normally a zoom lens has variable focal length. But, that is fine, it's not a problem. The intention with a macro lens is to physically move the camera and lens close to your subject..

I cannot see any difference with this and the normal lens..

A normal lens will allow you to get somewhat close to your subject, perhaps as close as 3 feet (1m) or a little closer. A macro lens allows the lens to focus at much closer distances. You should be able to get within a few inches (few cm) of your subject. That's how the insects or flowers etc. become very large in the picture. The macro lens (a) allows sharp focussing at close range and (b) is optically designed to work at it's best in this range..

Although there appear to be problems (from what I've read in other posts in this thread) with the auto focus, that may not be a problem. Even in a fully functioning camera/lens system, focus is tricky at close range..

That's because the lens moves in and out as the focus is adjusted. And that in turn changes the distance to the subject, affecting both magnification and focus. It is usually better to focus by moving the entire camera/lens towards and away from the subject, in order to focus. The lens focus ring then serves to change the magnification. When the lens is extended by a bigger amount, the magnification is increased. Try turning the focus ring until the lens is fully extended, then slowly approach your subject.

In fact this makes macro work tricky as the lens may cast a shadow on the subject, and also frighten away any insects. Begin with non-moving subjects until you have practised this..

A tripod is also useful, maybe even essential in this situation, though it can make moving the camera back and forth more cumbersome.Hope this helps,Peter..