DSLRs give you more latitude to screw up, but they dont tend to overexpose if used correctly even in program mode..

This is a decent explanation of shutter speed and aperture as it relates to ISO. It also gives some good insight into what the metering is seeing: http://www.thepeaches.com/photography/Basics.htm..

Just doing it! Gain experience, learn to meter on dark and light parts of your scene and choose the middel apperture or shutter speed. Exif is your friend in these situations.Don't wait for the Nikon D-whatever, have fun now!http://www.flickr.com/photos/j_wijnands/..

Edmondov wrote:.

It seems like DSLR like to overexpose or underexpose more so thanp&s cams.I decided the best thing to do is to shoot in manual only..

Please feel free to correct me..

When you get yourself an SLR, you'll see that it's just a matter of learning your camera so you know when it will tend to find a scene difficult. Usually it's as simple as looking at the histogram after you've taken a shot and using the exposure compensation control if it's not right..

However, a book like Bryan Peterson's popular 'Understanding Exposure' will help you..

Androohttp://Androo.smugmug.com..

Spot metering is great in difficult situations - take the exposure reading off the most important part of the picture (e.g. the face in a portrait, an area of wall in a building) and then either set the exposure manually or just use the 'exposure lock' feature which most cameras have. I find that auto metering works very well except when a picture has a very high dynamic range (bright sun / deep shadows), then you need to decide which is the most important part of the scene to expose correctly for and use spot metering, or just take pictures with several different exposure compensation values and stick with the exposure that looks best..

Best wishesMike..

Thanks for the wonderful link , made my job of undrstanding exposure easy,cheers,UD..

The link is not bad, but it is film based, and based on older cameras. That's both good and bad..

In the digital SLR world, most cameras have changes in shutter speed and aperture of one third of a stop, rather than the full stops in the examples..

In the web site reference, for instance, there's 1/60 of a second, and then 1/125..

On my Rebel XT, thre's 1/60, 1/80 and then 1/125..

IN aperture, in the old days, f4 and then f5.6 and now there's f4, f4.5, f5.0 and f5.6..

And his suggestion that 1/60 of a second is a good minimum shutter speed to hand-hjold a camera without camera shake causing blur is based on 35m,m film cameras and normal lenses for them,, in the 35 to 50mm range. Rules change for digital SLR cameras, depen ding on the sensor size and what kind of lens is in use..

For "normal" lenses,1/60 still works fine, but be careful with telephoto lenses. "Normal" on a Canon Rebel or any Nikon DSLR is about 38-30mm..

So don't be surprised when your camera info looks different; the principles continue to apply..

BAK..

Shooting manual is just about the same as shooting automatically, except yuou slow down and think a bit..

It's hard to suggest a specific book, but look for books by John Hedgecoe. Look inside, and see if the book looks current, and make sure it's not fuill of pictures of computer screens..

IMPORTANT THINGS:.

Meetering pattern. Modern cameras have, often, three different meteringmatters. Nassic info on these is in the instruction book, but there's usually no advice onhow to use them..

Learn the differences, and then take test pictures in all three modes..

Shutter speeds. With automatic exposure, sometimes the shutter speeds change as lenses zoom, and sometimes shutter speeds change as the background to your main shot changes. It all depends on what form of automationyou are using. With manual, this does not happen, which can be good or bad..

True story; I'm doing some dog photography now, and I go out into the sunny part of the field, take manual resposure readings off the grass, and set the camera properly so that the grass is always properly exposed. Then, when the doges come running and I follow them while looking through the camera, the meter needle jumps all over the place as the camera points at dark trees, the grass, the white dog, the black dog, the dustly patches on the ground. But the exposure does not change, which is the important thing. (Just the needle jumps around).

If I had set the camera for auto exposure, each shot would have changed shutter speed (or aperture, depending on Tv, Av, P for Program, etc.) and the doig and the grass would have varied from shot to shot..

Shooting for shadows, highlight: with manual exposure, you decide what part of the shot needs to be properly exposed, and then take a reading of the right area. In my dog shots, there's some open field and a forest with paths and patches of grass. Sun shines through the forest in spots, so I go and take manual exposure readings of the sunny spots. When the dog gets there running, or when we can get it to pose, the dog and the patch is exposed properly. With automatic exposure, as we zoom in and out, or get more white of the dog int he shot, or more of the solid black ear in the shot, the exposure would change when using automatic. The metering pattern I choose mattersm, as does how much of the sunny patch plus surroundings is in the frame when I take the meter reading.Too much in the frame when the reading is taken, and the dfark surroundings influence the exposure..

There's lots more to learn, of course..

BAK..

Over/underexposure is in the eye of the beholder. Point DSLR A, DSLR B and a digicam at a scene and you'll likely get three different exposure readings. Which one is under or over-exposing is up to you. The digicam is probably giving you ready-to-print results with the midtones exposed nicely and the highlights blown out, if they're too bright. And that's fine. The DSLR(s) may be using exposure algorithms that attempt to preserve highlight detail - the result being you have to do a little post-processing to bring up the midtones but you'll capture detail over a broader brightness range..

That's assuming you're using the cameras 'matrix metering' ... they also (usually) offer spot and/or center-weighted which can be useful..

With any metering mode (matrix/center/spot) you can choose Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority or Manual (as well as "scene" modes). P, A, S and scene modes are all various ways of setting a combination of shutter speed & aperture based on the exposure determined by the metering mode you've chosen. Manual simply says you're going to set both shutter speed and aperture yourself. Great for studio lighting, long exposures, night time or fireworks or lightning ... other situations. But you either need to know what you want to set the exposure to or base it on some meter reading.



So if the issue is that you don't trust the cameras meter, the question is: what are you going to trust ? The cameras meter is fine; it just may not do what you want all the time. Is any other meter going to be "better" ? No meter knows what you want it to do always. You could use the spot meter to be sure you always know what you're doing (of course, you have to learn how to meter scenes properly to get what you want ... ready-to-print versus expose to the right to preserve highlight detail) ... but that doesn't mean you need to shoot Manual. P/A/S are still fine options..

I suggest practising with the camera and it's meter and learning when it exposes the way you like and when it doesn't. And there's little reason to use M any time you're relying on the cameras meter. Use P, A or S as appropriate, and calculate the exposure differently when you know the camera isn't going to do what you want. I used to use the exposure compensation dial frequently, but have since gotten into the habit of simply aiming my camera at a scene that's similarly lit, minus bright highlights - for instance, if there are bright windows and I'm going to need to let them get blown out, I'll aim the camera down to get the windows out of the frame - or, better, zoom in so I've only got the subject matter I want exposed well in the frame - hit the AEL (auto exposure lock) button, recompose and shoot..

Meters on these cameras are sophisticated and capable; meter modes and exposure modes let you do most anything; the only time to use Manual is when you're not relying on the cameras meter, so I suggest it's not the way to go about learning to use your DSLR..

- DennisGallery at http://kingofthebeasts.smugmug.com..

Best way, read up and practice with a cam in hand..

Start with using Av and Tv modes. unless you're shooting with a flash or in a very tricky situation, I don't think you'll find yourself using purely manual mode much..

I use Av most as DOF is what I like to work with. I then judge my shutter speed for the scene. Same in reverse. When using a flash, I also try and stick with Av. if the ambient light is enough to support my shooting style and how I'm holding the camera..

Either way, practice and enjoy!.

Edmondov wrote:.

It seems like DSLR like to overexpose or underexpose more so thanp&s cams.I decided the best thing to do is to shoot in manual only..

What is the most effective way to learn manual shooting? Any goodbooks?.

Thanks.

Please feel free to correct me..

P.s. I do not own DSLR yet, but I have used others extensively. XTi& 30d.

TimColumbus, Ohiohttp://www.pbase.com/pdqgp..

I think slowing down and using manual modes is a great way to improve skills..

I think the best way to learn and it has been mentioned, is to practice. Shoot and evaluate..

The great thing about digital photography is that you no longer have to right everything down  The shutter speed aperature etc are allways there in the file info so you can study your results. I might suggest that you also carry a note taking device (pen and paper) to make a notes on the conditions you were shooting in..

You might also try to eliminate variables while you are learning. As one person suggested use aperature or shutter priority, and leave the ISO set to one setting as much as possible. This way you can learn about the effect each has on the photo when it changes..

CheersJames.

Edmondov wrote:.

It seems like DSLR like to overexpose or underexpose more so thanp&s cams.I decided the best thing to do is to shoot in manual only..

What is the most effective way to learn manual shooting? Any goodbooks?.

Thanks.

Please feel free to correct me..

P.s. I do not own DSLR yet, but I have used others extensively. XTi& 30d..

BAK wrote:.

Shooting manual is just about the same as shooting automatically,except yuou slow down and think a bit..

How can you think and take pictures at the same time?.

Leonard Migliore..

Very useful post, thank you..

True story; I'm doing some dog photography now, and I go outinto the sunny part of the field, take manual resposure readingsoff the grass, and set the camera properly so that the grass isalways properly exposed. Then, when the doges come running and Ifollow them while looking through the camera, the meter needlejumps all over the place as the camera points at dark trees, thegrass, the white dog, the black dog, the dustly patches on theground. But the exposure does not change, which is the importantthing. (Just the needle jumps around).

If I had set the camera for auto exposure, each shot would havechanged shutter speed (or aperture, depending on Tv, Av, P forProgram, etc.) and the doig and the grass would have varied fromshot to shot..

I get that the grass would be properly exposed in every shot- but what about the black and the white dogs, isn't there a risk of under/over exposing them if we meter for the grass? Could you kindly clarify? Also, how did you correctly expose for the grass- the histogram cannot be used in my opinion to check exposure for grass as there would only be a spike somewhere in the middle..

Sun shinesthrough the forest in spots, so I go and take manual exposurereadings of the sunny spots. When the dog gets there running, orwhen we can get it to pose, the dog and the patch is exposedproperly. With automatic exposure, as we zoom in and out, or getmore white of the dog int he shot, or more of the solid black earin the shot, the exposure would change when using automatic. Themetering pattern I choose mattersm, as does how much of the sunnypatch plus surroundings is in the frame when I take the meterreading.Too much in the frame when the reading is taken, and thedfark surroundings influence the exposure..

Could you kindly elaborate on how you correctly exposed for the sunny spots?thanking in advance,AP..

Thanks to the OP for bringing up this topic, and to you for the informative post. Could you kindly comment how you would go about correctly exposing for this hypothetical situation- a dark bust (statue) in front of a brown wall in a museum..

My take is that the camera sees predominantly 2 different shades of gray in the scene and it's metering system will suggest a setting that brings the 2 shades near neutral grey, 18%. The luminosity histogram will probably show a few spikes around the middle for the wall and the statue. I'm not sure if the exposure would be the correct one- how can I ensure that it is. I find my LCD unreliable to nail exposures, and in a scene with broader dynamic range I would trust the histogram, but here I don't know. I would probably set exposure compensation to -2/3 or -1 in Aperture Priority mode and hope for the best. Will the manual mode help here if I develop some understanding of the zone system or it's digital version, if any?thanks,AP..

Learn what your aperture and shutter speed do and the rest will come to you...

AnuragP wrote:.

Very useful post, thank you..

True story; I'm doing some dog photography now, and I go outinto the sunny part of the field, take manual resposure readingsoff the grass, and set the camera properly so that the grass isalways properly exposed. Then, when the doges come running and Ifollow them while looking through the camera, the meter needlejumps all over the place as the camera points at dark trees, thegrass, the white dog, the black dog, the dustly patches on theground. But the exposure does not change, which is the importantthing. (Just the needle jumps around).

If I had set the camera for auto exposure, each shot would havechanged shutter speed (or aperture, depending on Tv, Av, P forProgram, etc.) and the doig and the grass would have varied fromshot to shot..

I get that the grass would be properly exposed in every shot- butwhat about the black and the white dogs, isn't there a risk ofunder/over exposing them if we meter for the grass? Could youkindly clarify? Also, how did you correctly expose for the grass-the histogram cannot be used in my opinion to check exposure forgrass as there would only be a spike somewhere in the middle..

If you keep the exposure constant, the white dog will look -white- and the black dog will look -black- ..

Isn't that what we want to see?.

Leonard Migliore..

Another vote for "Understanding Exposure". I just got this book last week and it has some great assignments to do with your camera...

AnuragP wrote:.

Very useful post, thank you..

True story; I'm doing some dog photography now, and I go outinto the sunny part of the field, take manual resposure readingsoff the grass, and set the camera properly so that the grass isalways properly exposed. Then, when the doges come running and Ifollow them while looking through the camera, the meter needlejumps all over the place as the camera points at dark trees, thegrass, the white dog, the black dog, the dustly patches on theground. But the exposure does not change, which is the importantthing. (Just the needle jumps around).

If I had set the camera for auto exposure, each shot would havechanged shutter speed (or aperture, depending on Tv, Av, P forProgram, etc.) and the doig and the grass would have varied fromshot to shot..

I get that the grass would be properly exposed in every shot- butwhat about the black and the white dogs, isn't there a risk ofunder/over exposing them if we meter for the grass? Could youkindly clarify? Also, how did you correctly expose for the grass-the histogram cannot be used in my opinion to check exposure forgrass as there would only be a spike somewhere in the middle..

In the photo there are a range of objects with varying brightness. White dogs-bright, Black dogs-dark..

The meter in your camera is calibrated for an average scene which based on some experience and some odd history is calibrated at 18% grey. Thus you point your exposure meter (camera) at the white dog the camera will expose to make that come out as 18%grey and you get a grey dog. If you point your exposure meter at the black dog the camera will adjust the exposure to make that come out at 18% grey and again you will get a grey dog. The camera doesn't know anything about the object and what it should look like..

As it turns out green grass and much folage is about 18% grey (exposure wise). So is the palm of your hand. If you set the exposure for either then everything else in the picture will also be properly exposed for..

Clear as mud?.

Sun shinesthrough the forest in spots, so I go and take manual exposurereadings of the sunny spots. When the dog gets there running, orwhen we can get it to pose, the dog and the patch is exposedproperly. With automatic exposure, as we zoom in and out, or getmore white of the dog int he shot, or more of the solid black earin the shot, the exposure would change when using automatic. Themetering pattern I choose matters, as does how much of the sunnypatch plus surroundings is in the frame when I take the meterreading. Too much in the frame when the reading is taken, and thedark surroundings influence the exposure..

Could you kindly elaborate on how you correctly exposed for thesunny spots?thanking in advance,AP.

You point your spot meter at one of the sunny spots and expose for that. If your camera doesn't have a spot meter then just start dialing up the shutter speed (or making the apature smaller, larger numbers) untill the sunny spots are looking good. It's one of the advantages of digital you can check the results immediately..

A member of the rabble in good standing...

As it turns out green grass and much folage is about 18% grey(exposure wise). So is the palm of your hand. If you set theexposure for either then everything else in the picture will alsobe properly exposed for..

Clear as mud?.

Clear as when the mud settles down .

Could you kindly elaborate on how you correctly exposed for thesunny spots?.

You point your spot meter at one of the sunny spots and expose forthat. If your camera doesn't have a spot meter then just startdialing up the shutter speed (or making the apature smaller, largernumbers) untill the sunny spots are looking good. It's one of theadvantages of digital you can check the results immediately..

Thanks for explaining. I do have a spot meter in the camera- trying to understand how to use it. Spot metering the sun spots ( or any subject for that matter ) would render the spots as 18% gray again- so what I really wanted to ask was what do I need to learn to use the spot meter properly. Your tips have provided a start.-AP..

Theoretically, you'd expect "overexposure" for the reasons you mention, but it depends a lot on lighting ... our eyes easily ignore brighter areas that the sensors see ... so in trying to exposure for overall 18% gray, if lighting is pretty uniforum, then subjects that should be dark will be too bright, but if there's some variation in the lighting, you might be surprised to find that darker portions where you want them. I'd shoot it, review the histogram and if you want to try to nail a shot in-camera (particularly if shooting jpeg only) shoot using spot meter & -1, aiming the center spot at an area you want to be dark with detail, then locking that exposure. Since I shoot raw+jpeg, I'd probably let the camera do it's thing under the assumption that I can easily tweak it later ... if a bit overexposed, that's closer to the theory of "expose to the right" anyway..

- DennisGallery at http://kingofthebeasts.smugmug.com..

BAK wrote:.

True story; I'm doing some dog photography now, and I go out intothe sunny part of the field, take manual resposure readings off thegrass, and set the camera properly so that the grass is alwaysproperly exposed. Then, when the doges come running and I follow themwhile looking through the camera, the meter needle jumps all over theplace as the camera points at dark trees, the grass, the white dog,the black dog, the dustly patches on the ground. But the exposuredoes not change, which is the important thing. (Just the needle jumpsaround).

It's great to be able to photograph a lot of subjects in similar lighting ... by metering off a neutral subject, everything in that same lighting should come out "right"..

Only potential pitfalls are:.

1. Photographing very bright white or very dark black subjects, if the dynamic range of your subject matter exceeds that of your cameras sensor, you can get blown highlights or lose shadow detail. You'll still get a "good" exposure, definitely. But if you're a nature photographer shooting a swan, for instance, if you don't get detail in the feathers, the shot is pretty useless, so you might meter off the feathers and shoot at +2..

2. You should have the sun at your back  Otherwise, you'll be getting the shadow side of your subjects and underexposing. If you can't avoid this, then I'd spot meter subjects..

- Dennis..

Thanks a bunch, Dennis, for your thoughts..

I am slowly getting to understand the importance of light in composition and technical aspect of photography. I too shot RAW, but for a different reason- to tell you the truth it's because I'm not confident of making a good exposure myself in jpeg without bracketing. I slowly am realizing that I enjoy the process of taking the photos much more than poring over them in photo editors ( which I do anyway, but hope to break away from ).-AP___________________TGAITM________________________.

'For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move.' - RL Stevenson..