I ve done a small amount of research but I find I get confused andlose interest by technical jargon and end up not buying for a fewweeks. I want to jump in and get one and start shooting and startlearning from there instead of reading articles as it just confuseme more..
Your instinct here is correct. The technical differences between one camera and another are trivial compared to the skill of the photographer, and how the camera feels in your hands, so there is no need to waste lots of time agonising. For the price obvious cameras to consider are the Pentax K10D, Nikon D80, and Canon EOS400D (a.k.a. Rebel-XTi). These all have rave reviews and legions of ardent supporters; all have 10MP sensors and will produce very high quality images. For the money you could get a lens one step better than the relatively cheap 'kit' lenses, such as the Nikon 18-70 or 18-135 (on the D80), or the Pentax 16-45 (on the K10D)..
Get down to a camera shop, pick them up, and play with them - that is the best way to choose. For example however good the Canon 400D is, some people find it uncomfortably small if they have big hands, and that will override the other much less important differences..
- I will also be shooting streets and landscapes at night as well this is very important, must be good at picking up light in darkoutside areas..
All the above cameras will be comparably good at this. You will need a wide-aperture lens that lets in a lot of light, see below..
- Dynamism The main thing I need to get across is my pictures isa dynamic effect. Which lenses will help me achieve this and isthere any features the camera must have to support this? I will bemainly using my initial photos for posters etc. Most my images willhave an urban feel to them. I would like to use light effects, havenarrow focus fields in which objects are in focus and other arenot. So I think will be using Wide angled lenses a lot to makeobject or person appear distorted to achieve this dynamism,I have no lenses, which would you recommend..
'Dymanism' is down to how well you compose the picture and control the lighting... not a hardware issue but a personal skill issue. Narrow fields of focus can be done best using a wide-aperture lens, and this in turn is best done with a fixed-focal length (wide aperture zooms are very expensive). Such a lens will also be useful for low light situations so seems to be douvbly important for you..
So perhaps you want one of the above camera bodies, a general purpose mid-range zoom (18-70 or similar), and something like a 28mm f1.4 lens. That lot should just about be within your price range..
Not having your budget I went for a Pentax K100D (bargain-basement but still good). If I DID have your budget I think I would go for the Nikon D80 with 18-70 lens, plus a 28mm f1.4 prime lens which will give a field of view not far different from a human eye on any of these cameras..
Have fun. I'm jealous!!Mike..
Adam Fireworks wrote:.
Hi,.
I am looking for a professional DSLR camera. Any help would bereally appreciated. I am new to DSLRs and only know the basics ofcameras, however I am an Photoshop expert,.
If you're new then why a pro camera? Your budget hardly covers a high-end amateur body..
I have recently starteda new job in which I design movie posters, and although myphotography will start out as a hobbie I am looking to hopefullymove into the field of photography for films, so please keep thisin mind when advising me..
- Budget up to $1400 (700).
Nikon D80 perhaps. with a 18-70.
- Must have VERY high picture quality.
You're in charge of that..
- JPG and RAW images must be essential..
Most will have that..
- Needs to be Digital, I dont want a P&S..
Even most P&S cams are digital today..
- What will I be shooting? I am a graphic designer, so it willvary. But, mainly I will be shooting either landscapes or modelsupclose (for example from low dynamic angles). Another main thing Iwill be shooting is some moving images, for example bands on stageat a concert..
Hate to put down this idea but this budget barely covers a body and one or two lenses.
- I will also be shooting streets and landscapes at night as well this is very important, must be good at picking up light in darkoutside areas.- Dynamism The main thing I need to get across is my pictures isa dynamic effect. Which lenses will help me achieve this and isthere any features the camera must have to support this? I will bemainly using my initial photos for posters etc. Most my images willhave an urban feel to them. I would like to use light effects, havenarrow focus fields in which objects are in focus and other arenot. So I think will be using Wide angled lenses a lot to makeobject or person appear distorted to achieve this dynamism,- I have no lenses, which would you recommend..
Nikon D80 with a 18-70 or a tamron 17-50. A fast prime such as a 50 or 85mm 1.8 Perhaps a SB600 but once again this will be very tight in your budget..
Later on a course in studio lighting usage and perhaps a portable starter kit..
Don't wait for the Nikon D-whatever, have fun now!http://www.flickr.com/photos/j_wijnands/..
Adam Fireworks wrote:.
Hi,however I am an Photoshop expert,.
Fantastic..
- Budget up to $1400 (700)- Must have VERY high picture quality.
Do not be seduced by number of Megapixels. More pixels do not mean better IQ..
- I will also be shooting streets and landscapes at night as well this is very important, must be good at picking up light in darkoutside areas..
Although there are software solutions for reducing noise at high iso, you will want the best perfromace you can get from the sensor at high ISO. I cannot see past Canon for you (but you should also look at Nikon).
- Dynamism The main thing I need to get across is my pictures isa dynamic effect..
You camera won't acheive this. But your lighting, and composition will. Composition and focal length are related, and an 'easy' way to acheive dynamism is to consider focal lengths that are not the same as the human eye (approx 50mm). So lenses at 35mm or wider will start changing perspectives in an interesting way. You will need to experiemtn to find what worls for you but look on pbase at pics taken at different focal lengths (say under 20mm, 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, and 135mm). The above refers to focal lengths at the 35mm film equivalent..
I would like to use light effects, have.
Narrow focus fields in which objects are in focus and other arenot..
The trade of her is that you get more out of primes than zooms in this regard..
Any advice would be much appreciated, if you could state why yousuggest this would be a big help also. Many thanks!!!!.
My advice:.
1. accept that as you learn through experience you grow with your kit. So consider the best systems (Canon and Nikon), more than the camera itself..
2. Lenses more important than camera body - as long as you have a fully functioning slr with good manual controls. On your budget get a Canon 400d or 350d. (I'll let nikon users suggest equivalents). The canon cameras have a 1.6 crop so a 10mm lens acts like a 16mm lens (10 x 1.6)..
3. I'd get the 18-55mm kit lens. (so equivalent to 29-88mm) This gives you access to a range of wider focal lengths and will help you learn more, whilst delivering great images right off the bat..
4. Get a 50mm f1.8 - mainly for shooting at f1.8- f4. Narrower depth of field so you can acheive more than your zoom in this regard..
5. Get a tripod. Don't even questions it's use. You'll get a lot more out of it than anything else you buy. (Get a decent one eg manfrotto).
6. Get a flash, and try and start using it off camera as soon as you can. Check out the strobist.org website for specific advice on a budget..
All this should be in budget..
Check out Park Cameras which has the 350d plus 18-55mm kit lens for 410. 50mm f1.8 for 75. Spend 50-100 on a tripod and the rest on a flash (that allows you to use it off camera)..
Other options....
The 350d with the two lens kit - you also get a 55-200mm for 535. (personally I'd take the 50mm over the 55-200mm for your intended use any day of the week, but you may miss not having lenses at longer focal lengths.).
If you really want the latest camera get the 400D plus kit lens for 504, but it won't give you much more for the money..
A..
Start with the cheapest entry level Canon body and add the best lens you can afford. You could do likewise with Nikon but there is auto incompatibility with some of the older lenses in the system now. If that matters little, you may find that the Nikon actually 'feels' nicer to use..
John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr..
Also look at the sony A100.It has features not on the simularly priced Canon / Nikons..
One that is of value in creating some great effects on a budget is the Inbody stabalization. Not on any Nikon or Canon. you have to buy IS/VR lenses..
This means that you have the ability to shoot slower shutter speeds on any lens.. including lenses like the Sigma 10-20.... Which if you like to show Wide but close can be as helpful as on a longer lense..
Here is an example of a shot that would normally require a tripod or an expensive IS/VR lens that I did with just my kit lens on the A100's predicessor the Konica Minolta 5D..
40mm at 1/8th second....
Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.
All these lense would be stabalized for shots where motion is not stopped but shown...Sony A100 with Kit 18-70 mm $699Sigma 70-300 APO DG 70-300mm $199Sigma 10-20mm (award winning super wide Zoom) $499.
$1400.
Ken - KM 5Dhttp://www.cascadephotoworks.com..
Adam Fireworks wrote:.
Hi,.
I am looking for a professional DSLR camera. Any help would bereally appreciated. I am new to DSLRs and only know the basics ofcameras, however I am an Photoshop expert, I have recently starteda new job in which I design movie posters, and although myphotography will start out as a hobbie I am looking to hopefullymove into the field of photography for films, so please keep thisin mind when advising me..
- Budget up to $1400 (700)- Must have VERY high picture quality- JPG and RAW images must be essential.- Needs to be Digital, I dont want a P&S.- What will I be shooting? I am a graphic designer, so it willvary. But, mainly I will be shooting either landscapes or modelsupclose (for example from low dynamic angles). Another main thing Iwill be shooting is some moving images, for example bands on stageat a concert.- I will also be shooting streets and landscapes at night as well this is very important, must be good at picking up light in darkoutside areas.- Dynamism The main thing I need to get across is my pictures isa dynamic effect. Which lenses will help me achieve this and isthere any features the camera must have to support this? I will bemainly using my initial photos for posters etc. Most my images willhave an urban feel to them. I would like to use light effects, havenarrow focus fields in which objects are in focus and other arenot.
Im also looking to make some of my pictures slightly animatedlooking like http://www.davehillphoto.com/ (My photoshop skills canobviously help here).
I ve done a small amount of research but I find I get confused andlose interest by technical jargon and end up not buying for a fewweeks. I want to jump in and get one and start shooting and startlearning from there instead of reading articles as it just confuseme more..
Any advice would be much appreciated, if you could state why yousuggest this would be a big help also. Many thanks!!!!.
Adam.
Hi.
Firstly as others have said your budget is NOT gunna get you a "Pro" camera.
For what you want you would probably want a Canon 5d and a couple of L lenses to start (MUCH more than your budget.) Another Camera that would suit you would be a Fuji S5 with high quality Nikon lenses...again MUCH more than your budget..
Having said that anything else is going to be ok as well, you just may have to make compromises or other work arounds..
Most cameras made with 4mp or more will do the job and even the lowest dslr made today has higher spec than Pro cameras of a few years ago..
Many of your stated aims are low light/high iso. To me the best cameras for that are (besides the PRO Canons) The Fuji S5, The 8mp Canons and the 6mp Sony sensor cameras (Nikon d70s, d50 and d40, Pentax K100d and earlier Pentax and I think there is a Samsung 6mp model..
In your situation I would get the cheapest body with the best lenses (maybe one mid range zoom with one fast prime plus a kit lens.).
Whatever brand you get I think you should get a constant 2.8 zoom in the range 28-70 (the Tamron around that range is often recomended)..
Everyone has their own favourites and will suggest this or that and do not try this etc.....go try anything you can. Remember though at your price point it's not gunna be perfect..
If it was me I would get a K100d with kit lens, Tamron 28-75 2.8 and 50 77 1.8 ltd after that I would get a 50 1.4 and a good flash. Almost any other brand would be fine also..
Other people would have a different take and recommend cameras like Sony A100 or Pentax k10d or olympus...each will be better than the ones I have suggested in some uses...to me not for low light....the new Olympus may be worth a look..
Buy now you can always get something else later..
Neil..
Adam Fireworks wrote:.
Hi,.
I am looking for a professional DSLR camera. Any help would bereally appreciated. I am new to DSLRs and only know the basics ofcameras, however I am an Photoshop expert, I have recently starteda new job in which I design movie posters, and although myphotography will start out as a hobbie I am looking to hopefullymove into the field of photography for films, so please keep thisin mind when advising me..
- Budget up to $1400 (700)- Must have VERY high picture quality.
RULE #1 is: "Get the biggest piece of Silicon you can afford and the smallest MP you can put up with.".
RULE #2 is: "Spend over 50% of your budget on the glass.".
- JPG and RAW images must be essential.- Needs to be Digital, I dont want a P&S..
"P&S" and "Digital" are not mutually exclusive! .
- What will I be shooting? I am a graphic designer, so it willvary. But, mainly I will be shooting either landscapes or modelsupclose (for example from low dynamic angles). Another main thing Iwill be shooting is some moving images, for example bands on stageat a concert..
Still cameras don't take very good moving images. .
- I will also be shooting streets and landscapes at night as well this is very important, must be good at picking up light in darkoutside areas.- Dynamism The main thing I need to get across is my pictures isa dynamic effect. Which lenses will help me achieve this and isthere any features the camera must have to support this? I will bemainly using my initial photos for posters etc. Most my images willhave an urban feel to them. I would like to use light effects, havenarrow focus fields in which objects are in focus and other arenot. So I think will be using Wide angled lenses a lot to makeobject or person appear distorted to achieve this dynamism,.
You have it backwards. To render subjects in sharp focus and everything else OOF, you use Telephoto lenses and cameras with big sensors..
I have no idea what you mean by "dynamic effect"! But I'd guess it's more up to the photographer than the camera....
- I have no lenses, which would you recommend..
You definately need at least one..
Im also looking to make some of my pictures slightly animatedlooking like http://www.davehillphoto.com/ (My photoshop skills canobviously help here).
I ve done a small amount of research but I find I get confused andlose interest by technical jargon and end up not buying for a fewweeks. I want to jump in and get one and start shooting and startlearning from there instead of reading articles as it just confuseme more..
Yes, buy something. Here is what I would suggest..
Pentax K100D135mm f:2.850mm f:1.428mm f:2.8.
I did a quick pricing exercise and this totals to about $1270 US. That leaves $130 for memory and accessories. Sounds like you will need some lighting?.
I picked 3 prime lenses, because they are cheaper. Most of your photo examples seemed like venues where you could be deliberate and take your time...walk instead of zoom. You also stressed low-light and these lenses are much faster than similar zooms. Plus, they have great IQ. Finally, the K100D is a 6.1 MP camera with a large, APS-C sensor. This will give good low-light, high-ISO sensitivity with low-noise.
Any advice would be much appreciated, if you could state why yousuggest this would be a big help also. Many thanks!!!!.
I made my suggestions because you don't have a clue? .
Charlie DavisNikon 5700 & Sony R1CATS #25PAS Scribe @ http://www.here-ugo.com/PAS_List.htmHomePage: http://www.1derful.info'I brake for pixels...'..
Thanks for all your advice, really appreciate it, I will take it all on board...
My advise would be to get the new Olympus E-510 body only and then pair it with the upgraded 14-54 2.8-3.5 Pro lens. The E-510 is the most fully featured DSLR for the money and will serve you well. I have shot freelance with the Oly E-1 the past couple of years and now have the E-510 and it is fantastic!.
BTW, if you like the photos of Dave Hill you might also like the work of Matt Barnes who currently shoots with an Oly E-330. Here is his site: http://www.thatsthespot.com/.
Olympus E-1, 7-14, 14-54, 50-200, 50 Macro, TC, ET, FL-50, Ring Flash.
Favorite Images: http://www.myfourthirds.com/folder.php?id=1912.
Best, John S...
Adam, this link of Matt Barnes has a few more of my favorites that are not on the previous link, he has some great work!!.
Http://www.myfourthirds.com/user.php?id=183&page=user_images.
Olympus E-1, 7-14, 14-54, 50-200, 50 Macro, TC, ET, FL-50, Ring Flash.
Favorite Images: http://www.myfourthirds.com/folder.php?id=1912.
Best, John S...
Not sure I understand all of your needs but -.
You are going to need good glass whatever camera you buy. You can do a lot with good glass and a quality prosumer body..
My suggestions for glass:.
Sigma 24-70mm f2.8 - my work horse - You can pick a used one up on Ebay for around 160Tamron 18-50mm f2.8 - around 200-250 on Ebay.
Sigma 50-150 mm f2.8. You will get one new on Ebay for around 360. It is a very compact telephoto.
Sigma 70-200 f2.8 - a big heavy lens with a good reputation. I doubt you will get one for less than 350 used..
NONE of these lenses is specific to a particular camera. They all come in a variety of mounts to suit your camera body. They are all cheaper than the Pro glass from the camera manufacturer..
Sigma also have number of primes, in particular a 30mm f1.4 but it is not cheap (about 400)..
Http://www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/lenses/dclenses/dclenses.htm.
Which body would I choose? I am biased because I shoot Nikon (but I used Olympus DSLRs until 8 months ago)..
Reasons why I think it would best for you:.
Viewfinder - you are looking for an unusual perspectiveYou need a big bright VF to evaluate. That excludes the Canon 400D.
Flash - It sound like you are going to want to create mood and visual effects with lighting. Nikon's lighting system is vastly superior to Canon. With the D80 you get built in wireless flash. You can mount an SB600 flash on a tripod , a table or whatever and light your subjects from the side, behind or whatever..
My body recommendation? That will depend upon how important a wireless flash system is. If it matters the D80 plus an SB600 (the latter about 160 on Ebay) has got to be very attractive..
If a wireless flash system is not important (Maybe you will wat to use ambient light) then my alternative suggestion is one that will raise a few hackles:D40Sigma 10-20 mm or Sigma 30mm f1.4Sigma 50-150 f2.8.
The D40 comes with a slow 18-55mm f3.5 -5.6 lens. There is presently no 17/18-50/55mm AF-S f2.8 except for the Nikon which will swallow your budget whole. (Best Ebay price about 900) Someone has got to produce one soon but meantime you have a big gap in your lenses. I cannot judge how much of a problem that would be for you..
I think your best bet would be a used or Nikon reconditioned D80. But there are not many around. Tecno do some refurbs but I think I have only once seen a D80:.
Http://www.tecno.co.uk/...Store/c3585/2001-3585/Home/Refurbished/details.aspx.
I found some refurbs on Ebay:.
Http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/...29519756QQihZ008QQcategoryZ31388QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (1 of 3 from the same seller).
A D80 body would give you access to affordable quality used glass with no restrictions on choices of lens you can use..
Hope that helps!.
Chris Elliott.
*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.
Http://PlacidoD.zenfolio.com/..
I lost track of your budget while putting together my post..
A refurbed D80 body plus Sigma 24-70 f2.8 shoukd be within your budget as would a D40 with kit lens plus Sigma 50-150.
Your only other Nikon based option is a D50. This a decent camera recently discontinued but with a cult following which will sell for around 200-230 body only or 280 odd with 18-55mm lens. I use one as my backup cam. If you buy a D50 body only you will have more money to spend on glass. Ultimately you will replace the body before your lenses anyway.Chris Elliott.
*Nikon* D Eighty + Fifty - Other equipment in Profile.
Http://PlacidoD.zenfolio.com/..