I had a nikon d40 with a 18-135mm len( random pic below, taken with). very good lens, I never needed to change it. you'll get a good price on a d40 too. well recommended..
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Yes but no Image Stabilization with the Nikon D40 that use dedicated lenses too (can't be used with a Full Frame).A100 is easy to use and "pro" like ending without limitation..
Michel J..
I know the stablization for NikonD40x is in the lens they use, Not sure what you mean otherwise?..
That's right - for the Nikon / Canon cameras you have to buy lenses wth vibration reduction / image stabilisation built in. The Sony a-100 has it built into the camera (the sensor actually moves to compensate for camera shake) so it works with any lens, which saves money as the lenses are cheaper. (Although the Nikon / Canon aficionados say that it workes better to have it built in to each lens and is therefore worth the cost.... depends how demanding your requirements are)..
To answer your original query... if you can afford the extra go for the D80, it has a lot more features and is much more camera for not too much extra money. (I guess 'not too much' is entirely subjective!) Also because it has an autofocus motor built into the camera, which the D40X doesn't, the D80 is comparible with all Nikkor AF lenses (and independents like Sigma / Tamron etc). The D40 / D40x did away with the in-camera motor and rely on having the autofocus motor in the lens, which greatly limits the choice of lens (unless you are happy to focus manually). For example the f1.8 50mm is great for low light work, and quite cheap... but won't autofocus on the D40x..
I wanted a D80 with the 18-135 but couldn't afford it... sigh... enjoy whatever you get!Mike..
The D40 is really limitied as to what lenses will auto focus on it and to get stabilization, you need to buy VR lenses. The K100D comes with the AS built, is compatable with the past 30 years of PK lenses and is easier to use. IMHO. If you want 10MP, you have to look at the K10D...
As far as I know Sigma had an 18-125 which is reasonable value. On the K100D it will indeed benefit from anti-shake in the camera. In addition you might well never take it off, which is a good way to reduce problems with sensor dust. It's a very good range ( wide angle with a 7x magnification )..
For portraits you don't really need 10 Mp. The 6 Mp K100D, Nikon D50, Nikon D40 and and Canon from the 300D up will be fine, as will the Sony and the Olympus range..
Consider either a D50 or the K100D with an 18-125 or 18-135, although it's hard to go wrong with any of the basic DSLRs now. You can also get an 18-200 lens, which is a larger zoom. The E-410 would cover a larger range with it's two lens kit, and might quit you just as well..
Handling and feel is more important. I'd suggest a few trips to camera stores to try stuff out..
StephenG.
Fuji S9600Fuji S5200Fuji F30Fuji E900Canon A710ISPCLinuxOS..
Marilyn goldstein wrote:.
I am not a professional, but love taking good images. I want aneasy camera to use.>>.
Then that will mean good viewfinder and ergonomics. Canon 30D ideally, or Nikon D80..
Want 10 meg or more. Considering Sonly Alpha 100, (supposedly goodvalue for what is is)>>.
I'll likely get flamed for this, but I have a Minolta 5D on which the Sony Alpha is based and have had too many issues with 'lazy eye' using the flash. It would seem the pre-flash goes out just a little too far apart from the main flash. (Others don't get this problem so they say.) However as some people are more prone to lazy eye with flash than others I don't think they need to be encouraged to half shut their eyes. Canon would probably give less instances of it. Apart from that irritation with some portraits and a lack of info LCD on the top plate it's a nice camera and the anti-shake is a help on all lenses..
Nikon D40x (light,travel alot) or Nikon D80? I want to buy a goodcamera that I will be happy with for some time.,>>.
D80. Very capable camera..
I like taking portraits, pictures of people and sites when Itravel. Is the lens 18-135 a good range and quality for my needswithout having to carry two lens?>>.
Note my flash comment for portraits. 18-135 would be a good range. Perhaps a prime lens with nice bokeh (pleasanlty smooth out of focus area) and a bright f2.8 aperture to isolate the subject well from the background would be a help for portraits. Sometimes I use my 90mm f2.8 Tamron macro lens for this even though one has to stand well back. One of the old 50mm prime lenses would be nicer..
Of course if you don't want to carry 2 lenses you might need an 18-200, though the 200 is seldom good enough for real distant things like wildlife..
John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr..
K1000Photographer wrote:.
The D40 is really limitied as to what lenses will auto focus on itand to get stabilization, you need to buy VR lenses. The K100Dcomes with the AS built, is compatable with the past 30 years of PKlenses and is easier to use. IMHO. If you want 10MP, you have tolook at the K10D..
K10D is not for a new user... No scene modes weak JPG output.
If is a great camera for more experienced photograhers who shoot and know how to process RAW..
The nice thing about the Sony is it is easy to use..
All the current Sony lenses and Sony mount lenses from other makers work on it. It has features that Canon and Nikon leave off until you pay more than $1000..
You don't have to learn like with the D40x that not all Nikon lenses work with it.The Sony also has lots of great features for several hundred less than the D80..
If you are not worried about buying new lenses and just want better image quality and response over a P&S..
Even the D40 will work fine at 6mp. But the Sony gives you the most camera for the money right now..
I print 13x19 from 6mp and it works fine.. most people don't need 10.. it is just he marketing standard..
Ken - KM 5Dhttp://www.cascadephotoworks.com..
John farrar wrote:.
Marilyn goldstein wrote:.
I am not a professional, but love taking good images. I want aneasy camera to use.>>.
Then that will mean good viewfinder and ergonomics. Canon 30Dideally, or Nikon D80..
Want 10 meg or more. Considering Sonly Alpha 100, (supposedly goodvalue for what is is)>>.
I'll likely get flamed for this, but I have a Minolta 5D on whichthe Sony Alpha is based and have had too many issues with 'lazyeye' using the flash. It would seem the pre-flash goes out just alittle too far apart from the main flash. (Others don't get thisproblem so they say.) However as some people are more prone to lazyeye with flash than others I don't think they need to be encouragedto half shut their eyes. Canon would probably give less instancesof it. Apart from that irritation with some portraits and a lack ofinfo LCD on the top plate it's a nice camera and the anti-shake isa help on all lenses..
Nikon D40x (light,travel alot) or Nikon D80? I want to buy a goodcamera that I will be happy with for some time.,>>.
I take great flash shots all the time with my 5D and if I search I can find Nikon users atc all that sometimes get lazy eye with flash... using preflash of red eye this happens....
But also this is not a killer issue for me.. if I found flash shots that important I would use a better flash like the Metz..
Ken - KM 5Dhttp://www.cascadephotoworks.com..
I have the Nikon D80, 18-135 lens, and for low light the cheap nikon 50mm f1.8 lens, and I am in love with this setup, glad I spent the money.Good luck in your choice.Mike Rudge..
Ken_5D wrote:.
K1000Photographer wrote:.
The D40 is really limitied as to what lenses will auto focus on itand to get stabilization, you need to buy VR lenses. The K100Dcomes with the AS built, is compatable with the past 30 years of PKlenses and is easier to use. IMHO. If you want 10MP, you have tolook at the K10D..
K10D is not for a new user... No scene modes weak JPG outputIf is a great camera for more experienced photograhers who shootand know how to process RAW..
The nice thing about the Sony is it is easy to use.All the current Sony lenses and Sony mount lenses from other makerswork on it. It has features that Canon and Nikon leave off untilyou pay more than $1000.You don't have to learn like with the D40x that not all Nikonlenses work with it.The Sony also has lots of great features for several hundred lessthan the D80..
If you are not worried about buying new lenses and just want betterimage quality and response over a P&S..
Even the D40 will work fine at 6mp. But the Sony gives you themost camera for the money right now..
I print 13x19 from 6mp and it works fine.. most people don't need10.. it is just he marketing standard..
Agree 100%, great comment.
A100, is the heir of a long tradition of knowhow from co-operation or fusion with some brands such as Konica, Minolta, Leitz, Hasselbad....
Just my 2 cents..
Michel J..
John farrar wrote:.
Then that will mean good viewfinder and ergonomics. Canon 30Dideally, or Nikon D80..
As far as I know Canon or Nikon are not "easy to use" camera. So many hassle for those who are non pros..
The Sony Alpha is based and have had too many issues with 'lazyeye' using the flash. It would seem the pre-flash goes out just a.
Little too far apart from the main flash [...] Apart from that [...] it's a nice camera > and the anti-shake is a help on all lenses..
IMHO it's a biased advice, sorry for the writer..
So, it's not directly an issue with the camera but with the reflex of the subjects blinking. Every camera can produce "Sleepy eyes"* or "Lazy eyes"..
The term Lazy Eye is probably the most incorrectly-named syndrome ever. It actually is caused by people who have extraordinarily fast reactions. They can close her eyes fastly, just after the pre-flash. Just the opposite of being lazy!The correct definition may be "Sleepy eyes"..
In the opposite of your advice the A100, with his wireless flash system can canceling the "Sleepy eyes" effect like any other camera. BTW if you don't would like to buy a second flash you can change the settings of your flash/pre-flash according to your subject..
Apart [...] lack of info LCD on the top plate it's a nice camera and the anti-shake is a help on all lenses..
You have different choice about the LCD for that. BTW you can choose with one simple or one enhanced, so again it's a biased advice IMHO. See here:http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonydslra100/page4.asp.
D80..
Not easy to use, and your points seems to be personal concern not completly based on real facts..
Michel J.
*Source: Thanks to the Gary L. Friedman e-book about A100...
Michel J wrote:.
As far as I know Canon or Nikon are not "easy to use" camera. Somany hassle for those who are non pros.>>.
Disagree. Set them on Auto or Aperture priority and employ commonsense with metering. If it over or under exposes then alter the +/- EV accordingly to gain consistency..
The term Lazy Eye is probably the most incorrectly-named syndromeever. It actually is caused by people who have extraordinarily fastreactions. They can close her eyes fastly, just after the.
Pre-flash. Just the opposite of being lazy! The correct definition may be "Sleepy eyes".>>.
Interesting..
In the opposite of your advice the A100, with his wireless flashsystem can canceling the "Sleepy eyes" effect like any othercamera. BTW if you don't would like to buy a second flash you canchange the settings of your flash/pre-flash according to yoursubject.>>.
It makes no difference if I use wireless flash slaves. Many people have your 'sleepy eye'. Third party flash can overcome it as long as it is thyristor controlled on flash gun, not TTL. Sometimes if one sets the little pop up flash to anti red eye and then explains to the problem person that they must watch the sequence of rapid pre-flashes then the lazy eye may disappear..
Nevertheless, Michel: All advice will be biased as that is the inherent nature of advice. The hope would be that it is biased by careful thought processes plus long experiences. Forums are just another example of the 'Wiki' phenomenon in which the lowest common denominator comes into play necessitating the use of statististical processes in order to form an opinion. We then enter into the realms of Philosophy and Social Commentary. When I say I get 'lazy eye' from a particular camera and flash set up you know precisely what I mean, yet you you would apparently prefer to obfuscate rather than consider that the problem may be real for some of us. That's OK, as your opinion has as much right to be expressed as that of another.
However no matter whether I love the camera or loathe it I still get too much lazy eye. When I speak to the Canon users that I know they tell me the problem is virtually non existent. I wouldn't describe any of them as Canon fanboys so I am more inclined to believe what they say..
You have different choice about the LCD for that. BTW you canchoose with one simple or one enhanced, so again it's a biasedadvice IMHO. See here:http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonydslra100/page4.asp>>.
Even so, one still must lower the camera from one's eye and physically turn it to view the LCD. This breaks concentration more than just glancing down at a top plate LCD..
D80..
Not easy to use, and your points seems to be personal concern notcompletly based on real facts.>>.
Back to the Philosophy again: Facts. What are facts? Who is allowed to express them? What weight should they be given. People are perfectly free to ignore what I say if they feel sufficiently confident to do so, not that it will alter the facts .
Discussions can be interesting sources of information..
John..
Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr..
In filmy days some people blink their eyes but not for the same reason ! And it's not about a TTL issue..
Good news and bad news in terms of lazy eye if you prefer (than sleepy eye*):.
- The good news is, those who had very fast reflexes and always blinked with a film camera will now have their eyes open (because the pre-flash made them blink early)..
- The bad news is, those people who used to blink after the picture was taken now find that their blinking coincides with the 2nd flash (when the picture is being taken)..
Everybody blinks, but the new digital flash measurement system happens to catch more people blinking than the old system..
So, it's a never end story some people have lazy eye with film and not with digital & vice versa. Some people have lazy eye and other not in the same photo, with or without TTL etc..
BTW it's all the time possible for changing lighting situation or use a third party flash to overcome that problem..
The question of this threads it's about "Some help in camera decision" not about some issue appearing ONLY with some people or biased advice who wants to imply a model whereas all the dslr are concerned. And being obvious in very little situation, BTW it's impossible to completely remove this problem..
I have a 7d that is pretty similar of your 5d and I don't have significant "lazy eye" issue today..
Michel J.
*Source: Thanks to the Gary L. Friedman e-book about A100...