Stevek116 wrote:.

Hi:I am an total amateur and have never had the time or energy to figureout manual features in my past cameras. So I can honestly say I am apoint and shoot person, but here are requirements for my next camera.I am looking at SLR and getting up to a 400MM zoom or going with aSLR-like with super zoom (12-16x zoom). I like the compactness ofthe SLR-like, but do not want one if the speed and image quality is.

Regarding speed, do you mean.

- speed of operation (for instance, time to zoom in/out; time to change settings;et al)- autofocus speed- FPS in continuous-drive mode.

?.

Really poor. I am ok having a larger budget if the point and shooton the SLR is that much better. Otherwise, I know that I will neveruse all of the professional controls and features and will be wastingmy money..

Core Important Qualities:Needs large zoom capability.Must have very good low light capability (image quality)..

Generally speaking, compact cameras other than the Fujis tend to do very badly at high ISO. Now, depending on what you're shooting in that low light if it's essentially a still life and you have a tripod (shooting the moon, a city skyline, the trails left by car headlights, etc) you may not need to use a high ISO value; you'd use a long exposure (which also tends to hurt, but less so, and if you're willing to double the wait you can use dark frame subtraction). An SLR will likely give you better results here, but it may not be strictly necessary..

If you're shooting moving subjects and you wish to stop their motion, then you're likely going to need a very short shutter speed and a high ISO. Small-sensor cameras will suffer here. It's not easy for all SLRs, even, although the current batch is generally pretty good..

Must be able lock/focus quickly, even in lower light.Must be quick, very low shutter lag..

*snip*.

Canon EOS 400D (+ 400MM zoom)Nikon D40X (+ 400mm zoom).

I'd also suggest looking at most other entry-level DSLRs, excluding the Sigma SD series interesting concepts, but the color shifts at high ISOs make them likely less suitable for your purposes...

Thanks for your response it is much appreciated..

Yes, with regards to speed I want something that zooms and locks quick. Also, quick startup..

I will check out the Sigma's and you had said Fuji's are generally better in low light so I am anxious to see how the new S8000 will be..

If I cannot find a compact with zoom that I feel will be satisfying to me, I will end up stepping up to a SLR..

Steve..

The S8000 should be good however the current S6000 uses the 6th generation of it's excellent (and proven) 6.3 megapixel sensor which is 1/1.7" compared to 1/2.35" on the S8000. Doing the math on this shows that the light gathering area of the 6.3 sensor pixels is more than 2.4 times that of the 8 megapixel sensor..

Also, the lens on the S6000 is a a good thing as backed up in reviews and is certaily better than the one on the new S700. I would wonder about the qualities of an 18X zoom as other ultra-zooms on the market are pushing the limits of clarity, sharpness and chromatic aberration..

The only thing that the S6000 lacks is image stabilisation but generally the camera is light enough for this to not be an issue..

My other advice to you is don't buy a DSLR unless you are prepared to 'shell-out' on additional lenses or expensive zoom lenses. You will find that the lens on the S6000 (and Panasonic/Canon superzooms) is at least the equal of cheaper entry level zoom lenses for DSLR cameras..

Hope this helps...

Steve.

Almost forgot....

All DSLR cameras have significant shutter lag due to the time necessary to flip the mirror and move the shutter - in the order of 60 to 120 milliseconds whereas most P&S and superzooms are in the 10 to 20 millisecond range (Fuji/Sony/Panasonic)..

Cheers..

Rocklobster wrote:.

Steve.

Almost forgot....

All DSLR cameras have significant shutter lag due to the timenecessary to flip the mirror and move the shutter - in the order of60 to 120 milliseconds whereas most P&S and superzooms are in the 10to 20 millisecond range (Fuji/Sony/Panasonic)..

Eh? I strongly disagree, the lack of shutter lag is one of the main features of DSLRs over P&S cameras.

On my D200 the blackout as the mirror flips up is so short it's barely noticeable..

I can't see any P&S near 10 milliseconds on this table, most seem nearer 300 milliseconds:.

Http://www.cameras.co.uk/html/shutter-lag-comparisons.cfm.

Many dSLRS can autofocus *and* apply the shutter in that time!.

Alex.

Http://akiralx.smugmug.com/..

Unless you shoot wildlife or spy on people, the long reach may not be needed. The majority of my photos are taken at 28 or lower mm...

I just have to ask, have you ever handled a dSLR with a 400mm lens on it? You say you want a 400mm zoom lens, for Canon that means the 100-400mm L lens. It weighs 1.4 kg (around 3 pounds I think) alone and is close to 20cm long (8"). A 70-300mm lens is more managable, but is still quite large. If you haven't handled a camera with such a lens, I recommend that you go to a local store and have a go to see for yourself.___JS..

I have seen but not handled a DSLR with 400mm lense. I was originally looking at the compact zoom cameras and like that amount of zoom capability. With that being said perhaps the 300mm will work..

I will mostly be using the camera for people shots (family, kids, parties - candid opportunities, low light too).

And then some wildlife shots / landscapes / maybe kids sports at some time..

So for my needs I really like the compacts, but after reading reviews I am scared I will be disappointed with the quality, low light images, focus lock speed, etc that I would have wished I spend the $1100+ for an entry level DSLR like the Canon XTi with 300mm kit or Nikon equivilent, instead of $500 for a compact 12X+ zoom like:.

Canon S5Panasonics DMC-FZ18 / FZ28 or FZ50Fuji S8000fd / S6000fd.

Thanks for everyones' input..

What I meant to say is the 'pre-focussed' shutter lag, that is, the lag after the shutter button has been pressed half way. This is a very short period on most current P&S cameras whereas the 'unfocussed' lag on most DSLR cameras is superior to P&S. This is what the table that your link shows refers to..

All clear?If not, refer to the explanation in -.

Http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilms6000fd/page4.asp..

A Canon 400D/Nikon D40 with a kit lens or similar + 70-300mm zoom lens definetley makes sense, and is a lot of fun. Also, remeber that 300mm on a 1.6x crop body equals 480mm in 35mm terms. For low light, there is also the posibility of a fast prime lens like the 50/f1.8 or 35/f2, both are fairly low cost lenses that will give you high image quality.___JS..

If you never tried to get the manual controls of a compact camera means you have no idea what setting makes a great photo. If so a dSLR will be just a source of bitter disappointment and a source of spending a lot of money..

For your requirements a dSLR would be the most expensive and inappropriate solution. You will not have any feedback from the camera about the exposure, you'll get a shallower DOF (and a lot of blurry pictures). For lowlight you need high ISO and very fast lens. You cannot get that from the small sensors..

If you don't want to learn a lot about photography and spend time to get good shots with a dSLR then the only solution are the bridge cameras..

Unfortunately most have very small sensors or a little larger but with various problems (a lot of problems with ISO over 100 for Panasonic and slow and not stabilized lens for Fuji)..

Best performers from the IQ point of view remain old cameras (Canon S3, Sony H2, Fuji S6000) but you must know how to use the manual controls of these cameras (Custom WB, ISO speed, aperture priority and shutter priority modes)..

The new cameras are a little worse to simply worse than the old ones (Canon S5 has problems with a bad sensor but the processing seems to save it from disaster while Sony H9 and Olympus SP550 failed since they changed also the lens and processing)..

Panasonic is a case. They have good lens but a lousy sensor with too many pixels on it. The FZ50 would have been a very good camera if only they didn't try to use a 1/1.8" sensor stuffed with 10 MP and a very bad approach to the noise. FZ7 and FZ8 are like plastic toys compared with Canon, Sony or Fuji but they are cheap and at ISO100 with low NR setting can compete with the others. All my friends that had a Panasonic camera were not thrilled by the photos they got from them but liked the camera for handling and features.VictorBucuresti, Romaniahttp://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m268/victor_petcu/..

This was very insightful, thanks for taking the time..

Since you had said that many zooms have small sensors do you or any other experts out there have preliminary thoughts on the new Fujis coming out:.

S5800 (8mp, 2.5" ccd, 10x zoom) I think virtually the same as the S5700, more MP.

S8000fd (8mp, 2.35" ccd, 18x zoom).

Thanks..

These two cameras seem predestined to fail. One has the not so great Sony sensor that ruined the Sony Hx series and almost did the same with Canon Sx series. Another has some kind of marginally larger sensor but with a lens with a range that failed so far (perhaps I'm wrong and Fuji will be able to make a good lens where Sony and Olympus failed). With that small sensor Fuji renounced at their sensor that has a little edge above the others (about 1.5 stops) in order to get that zoom range. A Fuji S6000 with stabilization and faster lens (at least f/3.6 @ 300 mm) would have been much better. Maybe they will soon announce it since Fuji S8000 is quite different than their superzoom performers..

All manufacturers are in a race for larger numbers in zoom ratios and pixel count and they forget that the main purpose of the camera is to get good pictures..

In 1/2.5" sensor world the threshold seems to be 6 MP and in the 1/1.8" world 10 MP. If you want very long zoom you need smaller sensors or you get something like FZ50 that has in common with the dSLR just the bulkiness but lacks other advantages (good high ISO performance, focusing speed, interchangeable lens).VictorBucuresti, Romaniahttp://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m268/victor_petcu/..

Thanks Victor, I appreciate you insight..

I am back with more questions. Between the older models Fuji S6000, Panasonic FZ50 that you spoke off, does one stand out more for everyday use? How important is the stabilization for example (not available in the S6000)..

Also, I went the camera store (Ritz Photo chain) and handled the Nikon D40x, and the Canon 400D XTI. I am not opposed to the size and handling. I found the Nikon a little better handling. I didn't do a thorough test, but did take pictures with both, and I could not really tell the difference with the stock settings. If I was to go dSLR, I like the concept of a single multi purpose lense. I know that Tamron are not the best, but for my level and the money (<$400), do you have an opinion on the AF18-250mm F3.5-6.3 Di OR the AF 28-300mm F3.5-6.3 Di VR.



How about other lense recommendations?I welcome anyone's opinions - please put in layman's terms  .

I know that Ritz is usually more expensive, but in my area they have bought out a local full service camera shop, and if you purchase from them, they allow you to attend up to 18 evening photo classes for free (general manual digital how to courses). They also heavily discount lenses if purchased at the time with the body.Thanks - Steve..

My humble opinions:.

1. Canon makes the best point & shootsSD800ISS5ISA570IS2. Nikon makes the best DSLR'sD40D40XD803. Buy only Canon or Nikon lenses.Nikon 18-55Nikon 18-135Nikon 55-200VRNikon 70-300VR4. Buy from B&H, Adorama, or Amazon5. Take classes at community college..

Stevek116 wrote:.

Thanks Victor, I appreciate you insight..

I am back with more questions. Between the older models Fuji S6000,Panasonic FZ50 that you spoke off, does one stand out more foreveryday use? How important is the stabilization for example (notavailable in the S6000)..

With a faster and stabilized lens and a good Auto WB Fuji S6500 would have been the best camera by far (not so long reach though)..

Also, I went the camera store (Ritz Photo chain) and handled theNikon D40x, and the Canon 400D XTI. I am not opposed to the size andhandling. I found the Nikon a little better handling. I didn't do athorough test, but did take pictures with both, and I could notreally tell the difference with the stock settings. If I was to godSLR, I like the concept of a single multi purpose lense. I knowthat Tamron are not the best, but for my level and the money (<$400),do you have an opinion on the AF18-250mm F3.5-6.3 Di OR the AF28-300mm F3.5-6.3 Di VR.



Sorry about the dSLR lens but my expertise in those is inexistent. But be aware that Nikon D40 limits you the flexibility since it has no AF motor in body so only the lenses with integrated motors can do AF with this body..

VictorBucuresti, Romaniahttp://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m268/victor_petcu/..