Brandon, the lens itself has an autofocus on-off switch and then there are different focusing modes in the camera itself. Ifs possible that someone fiddled with the camera. To get the "point and shoot" mode on a canon dlsr, you want to adjust the camera so that the left dial has the "green square" setting and then make sure the switch on the lens is in the AF setting, not the MF setting..

Personally, I don't think anti-shake and dust removal technologies have been around long enough to know if they are an overall positive or negative. You can buy a giotto rocket blower for $12 that does a good job of cleaning and it's a very simple operation. If you have stubborn dust, you can use swabs or brushes made for cleaning sensors, and they run less than $100..

I'll give you my personal opinion on the camera selection. I really think that the lens and accessory selections are more important than the camera body for most casual photographers. For that reason, I'd stick with Canon or Nikon. Also, for the same reason, I'd suggest that if you need to skimp on price, err on the side of paying less for your camera body and get a decent lens or two..

Also, my advise would be not to get too deep into the reviews for your decision making. Every one of these cameras blow away the models from just a couple of years ago in terms of speed, ISO performance, etc and honestly there isn't that much that separates them from each other. Just read the features and check them out at the store and determine which one you like better. Good luck...

Vyx313 wrote:.

The only way I was able to get it to focus was by manuallyadjusting the "focuser" on the lense. Is it supposed to worklike that or am I just too noob in cameras to figure it out..

This seems odd... unless the store was pretty dark (which would be fairly odd), or the attached lens were a non-AF lens (which would be -very- odd, for an in-store demo)..

The usual half-press should work. Might note that there are a number of AF points permitted, and it should be possible to specify which one rather than letting the camera decide..

Secondly, how important are features like anti-shake and dustremoval (sensor)?.

Both vary in importance..

In-body anti-shake is interesting for allowing longer exposures without worrying as much about camera shake. It does nothing about subject motion, of course. There are scenarios where it'd be very helpful (ex: photography in museums, where you're often forbidden from using either a flash or a tripod)..

Http://pixinfo.com/en/articles/ccd-dust-removal/.

Dust removal, provided it works well (read the above link...) is, for most users, a peace-of-mind convenience quite a few people clean their sensors manually. If you're shooting high volumes each session (and therefore risking having to clone dust out of more shots), and often changing lenses in dusty environments, this might be more of a problem for you..

Finally, the cameras..

Pentax K10D: It has image stabilization build into the body of thecamera as well as a sensor cleaner to clean dust off the lense..

Off sensor, not off lens..

Supposedly has very good dust and weather seals. ~$900.

Seals are handy to have, but remember that the lens should be sealed as well.http://pentaxlife.com/three-new-stars-by-pentax.

Sony A100: Anti Dust System, Anti Shake image stabalizer in body.Sony doesn't seem to have quite the name canon and nikon do in thecamera market. ~$700.

OTOH, they have inherited Konica-Minolta's lens system. They're also a major sensor supplier, and have produced some very well-liked cameras (ex. F707)..

Canon Rebel XTi: Cleaning System to keep dust off sensor. Imagestabilization only in specific lenses. ~$800.

See the pixinfo link above about the dust sensor..

Big distribution. Might be the easiest to go try in person, or to find lenses or other users..

Nikon D80: No anti dust system and Image stabilization is onlybuild into certain lenses. Seems to have slightly better reviewsthat the others. ~$900.

Not a lemon, either. The system also has pretty decent flash metering, from what I've read..

I'm really looking for some advise here so if you wouldn't mindsharing some of your experience it would be appreciated. Who knows,maybe there is something I'm missing. I noticed that all thereviews are ~1/2 a year old. If cameras work anything like the techindustry, they could even be old news by now. Hopefully sometimesoon I'll be snapping some nice pictures..

Unlike computers, you're not likely to have incompatibility issues or end up with unfixed security holes due to a no-longer-supported operating system. So no, it doesn't work that way..

Olympus E-410 review just came out. Much of it should be applicable to the E-510, as technology is presumably quite similar...

Thanks Harlod and Leejay Wu for the quick replies!.

When I started seriously looking into getting a DSLR about a month ago, the Pentax K10D caught my eye. Over the course of searching around I started to grow concerned about image quality and sharpness. Especially after reading the review here so I started looking more into other cameras..

After reading about all night, I think that I've found, while shooting in raw mode and then using post raw processing, the images can be just as sharp as any of the other 3 cameras correct?.

As far as the avaliability of lenses, I don't plan on buying alot of lenses or very expensive lenses in the forseeable future so I won't mind hunting around for them..

One bit I would like clarified though is what are Prime Lenses? Does this just mean that it is a fixed zoom? I keep reading about DA lenses for Pentax, what are these and why are they so good? Also, would anyone have any suggestions on places to look around for pentax lenses?.

Another question of mine is what is meetering? I read that the Nikon has better meetering than the Pentax but not by a great margin..

Anyway, I'm really leaning towards the K10D right now. Hopefully, with a few more things cleared up I can make the right decision..

Thanks again for all your help!Brandon..

Half the time the cameras in stores have dead batteries. Did the display come one when you turned it on and looked through the viewfinder?Dirck HarrisBug chaser/Dragonfly hunter...

Vyx313 wrote:..

I guess before I even talk about cameras, I would like to know afew things about DSLR's. I went to the local Circuit City andplayed around with a Rebel XTi a bit but for the life of me, Icould not get the thing to auto focus. I had auto focus set to onon everything I could find but it just wouldn't do it. The only wayI was able to get it to focus was by manually adjusting the"focuser" on the lense. Is it supposed to work like that or am Ijust too noob in cameras to figure it out. Will it ever work like apoint and shoot camera's auto focus? Not that I will always wantthis, but when I'm first starting out it might be nice..

Yes, it should autofocus..

Secondly, how important are features like anti-shake and dustremoval (sensor)?.

Not. Dust removal is a nice to have. Anti shake is nice in so far as that it allows a bit more versatility..

I would think that they are important but whoknows, maybe someone with experiance can shed some light on thesubject. I know that I don't want to be photoshoping my photosbecause my sensor gets dirty after a year..

You can clean your sensor. Even on a camera with anti dust features this will be necessary..

Finally, the cameras..

Pentax K10D: It has image stabilization build into the body of thecamera as well as a sensor cleaner to clean dust off the lense.Supposedly has very good dust and weather seals. ~$900.

It is a nice little camera. Excellent lens compatibility..

Sony A100: Anti Dust System, Anti Shake image stabalizer in body.Sony doesn't seem to have quite the name canon and nikon do in thecamera market. ~$700.

They are very nice. I do like their whitebalance setup. It's a nice, robust body..

Canon Rebel XTi: Cleaning System to keep dust off sensor. Imagestabilization only in specific lenses. ~$800.

Yeah, and to me lousy ergonomics and a feel like it's made by mattel..

Nikon D80: No anti dust system and Image stabilization is onlybuild into certain lenses. Seems to have slightly better reviewsthat the others. ~$900.

Very fine camera..

I'm really looking for some advise here so if you wouldn't mindsharing some of your experience it would be appreciated. Who knows,maybe there is something I'm missing. I noticed that all thereviews are ~1/2 a year old. If cameras work anything like the techindustry, they could even be old news by now. Hopefully sometimesoon I'll be snapping some nice pictures..

Any of these can be a fine choice. Go to a shop where you can handle all of them. See which one appeals to you the most. They will all produce excellent pics in skilled hands..

Pentax is the best when it comes to backward lens compatibility (you can mount any lens from the last 30 years or so and it will work).

Sony's got a stabilizer which is tempting but the lens lineup isn't on the level of the other. Their 18-70 kit lens is nice..

Nikon's got the best external flash system..

Canon is immensely popular despite it's weird ergonomics. It does have the worst kit lens of the lot.Don't wait for the Nikon D-whatever, have fun now!http://www.flickr.com/photos/j_wijnands/..

After reading about all night, I think that I've found, whileshooting in raw mode and then using post raw processing, the imagescan be just as sharp as any of the other 3 cameras correct?>>.

RAW lets you alter things like white balance and colour tone balance as well as the more usual things like white point, curves annd levels etc. Focus can be modified by sharpening in Photoshop or similar program. There are various degrees of it including the use of Unsharp Mask. Novices may benefit from downloading the Focus Magic plug-in which keeps things under control more easily. You can choose in your DSLR if you want soft focus (this is not the same as 'out of focus') or hard focus..

As far as the avaliability of lenses, I don't plan on buying alotof lenses or very expensive lenses in the forseeable future so Iwon't mind hunting around for them.>>.

Good. Every DSLR camera is now available to you once you don't need to worrky about the huge choice from Canon and Nikon systems. Pentax K10 could be a wonderful camera for you, especially with the 16-45 zoom..

One bit I would like clarified though is what are Prime Lenses?Does this just mean that it is a fixed zoom? I keep reading aboutDA lenses for Pentax, what are these and why are they so good?Also, would anyone have any suggestions on places to look aroundfor pentax lenses?>>.

Prime lenses: These have a fixed focal length like 50mm, 28mm, or 300mm etc. A zoom lens covers a range of these. Usually it is not so bright and may make more distortion as it will have more glass elements..

Another question of mine is what is meetering? I read that theNikon has better meetering than the Pentax but not by a greatmargin.>.

Meetering is getting the exposure right. As long as it is consistent all you would need to do is use the +/- EV button to set it to produce the results you need. Nikon D70 had good metering according to a friend of mine whereas his newer D80 is needs that +/- EV tweak and then it is just as good..

Anyway, I'm really leaning towards the K10D right now. Hopefully,with a few more things cleared up I can make the right decision.>>.

K10 is a great choice if you don't intend to build up a pro system. If you are sure about that then go ahead and don't waste any more photo opportunities. But if it has to be Canon or Nikon for the 'safe-bet' of system compatibility, then the Nikon D200 or Canon 30D will be where you ought to be looking to match that K10..

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr..