The amount of magnification depends on the lens they are mounted on. If the manufactures of these lenses were at all honest, they would give either the focal length or dioptre..
All supplemental close up lens change the effective focal length of the lens you put them on. The best ones, like the Raynox and the Canon 250D and 500D are multi-element lenses you need at least two elements in a single group to reduce the chromatic aberration..
I do not have any first hand experience of the Raynox lenses, but they are well regarded. The Canon 250D is a two element lens with a focal length of 250 mm, which makes it a +4 diopter lens, the Canon 500D is a 500 mm lens (+2 dioptres). Reversing a standard 50 mm f/1.8 lens (such as any Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Pentax, etc.) will give you about +20-25 dioptres. (Reversing rings are cheap and old 50 mm lenses are also cheap)..
All supplemental close up lenses force the focusing range of the lens to which they are attached to shift. You lose infinity, but gain closer focus. Not only do you lose infinity, but can only focus from a couple of feet at best. The higher the dioptre, the greater the magnification, but the more limited the focal range..
The shift in the focal range can be a real problem the lens often shadows the subject. If you can find the dioptre ratings of the lenses you are looking at, then you can easily determine the new maximum focusing distance of the combination. For example the Canon 250D, as with all +4 diopters lens reduces the MAX focusing distance to 250 mm (25 cm, about 10 in), which may seem like a lot, but that is measured to the sensor, not he front of the lens. The +2 dioptre 500D does 50 cm..
You can image how close you have to be with a +20 dioptre lens to get anything in focus..
Brian A...
I have a variety of close up lenses. The Raynox's are very sharp and at least in the US are very reasonably priced 150 = $36 250 = $39..
They are very versatile as they can fit on to a number of different sized lenses with their universal clip on mount. On the superzooms where a lot of people use them and they have threads in the 50-55mm or bigger, you need to be at the long end of the zoom to avoid vignetting..
I also have a Canon 250D and the Nikon 3T and 4T..
I change around what I use depending on how tight I want to get to the subject. The Raynox 250 which is +8 used at 12x on a superzoom gets you unbelievable close ups of bugs but you won't be able to get a whole butterfly or dragon fly in the frame. etc.terryhttp://tbanet.zenfolio.com/..
Hugowolf wrote:.
The amount of magnification depends on the lens they are mounted on.If the manufactures of these lenses were at all honest, they wouldgive either the focal length or dioptre..
All supplemental close up lens change the effective focal length ofthe lens you put them on. The best ones, like the Raynox and theCanon 250D and 500D are multi-element lenses you need at least twoelements in a single group to reduce the chromatic aberration..
I do not have any first hand experience of the Raynox lenses, butthey are well regarded. The Canon 250D is a two element lens with afocal length of 250 mm, which makes it a +4 diopter lens, the Canon500D is a 500 mm lens (+2 dioptres). Reversing a standard 50 mm f/1.8lens (such as any Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Pentax, etc.) will give youabout +20-25 dioptres. (Reversing rings are cheap and old 50 mmlenses are also cheap)..
All supplemental close up lenses force the focusing range of the lensto which they are attached to shift. You lose infinity, but gaincloser focus. Not only do you lose infinity, but can only focus froma couple of feet at best. The higher the dioptre, the greater themagnification, but the more limited the focal range..
The shift in the focal range can be a real problem the lens oftenshadows the subject. If you can find the dioptre ratings of thelenses you are looking at, then you can easily determine the newmaximum focusing distance of the combination. For example the Canon250D, as with all +4 diopters lens reduces the MAX focusing distanceto 250 mm (25 cm, about 10 in), which may seem like a lot, but thatis measured to the sensor, not he front of the lens. The +2 dioptre500D does 50 cm..
You can image how close you have to be with a +20 dioptre lens to getanything in focus..
Brian A..
+4 diopters gives 1/4=25cm focusingdistance....thats correct.BUT, it doesn't measure to the sensor, rather to the front lens.Unless theres something very wrong on my DCR-250 .
It is a very high quality +8 lens and it focuses from 1/8=around 12cm distance, and that is 12cm from the frontlens..
It all makes sence, the macro-lens, since it doesn't have any focusing or moving elements, can only get focus for a certain distance, and that distance is measured from the lens itself. You can then slightly enlarge this distance by changing focus in the camera, so you get maybe 23-27cm or so on a +4 lens. But it all measures from front-element.http://sebastianfoto.se/..
TEBnewyork wrote:.
I have a variety of close up lenses. The Raynox's are very sharp andat least in the US are very reasonably priced 150 = $36 250 = $39.They are very versatile as they can fit on to a number of differentsized lenses with their universal clip on mount. On the superzoomswhere a lot of people use them and they have threads in the 50-55mmor bigger, you need to be at the long end of the zoom to avoidvignetting..
I also have a Canon 250D and the Nikon 3T and 4T..
I change around what I use depending on how tight I want to get tothe subject. The Raynox 250 which is +8 used at 12x on a superzoomgets you unbelievable close ups of bugs but you won't be able to geta whole butterfly or dragon fly in the frame. etc.terryhttp://tbanet.zenfolio.com/.
Exactly, the DCR-250 ain't for butterflies....unless they are rather small. I managed to capture one small one, but it was really on the vignetting-limit..
Also, the long end you say, but I dont think thats really true. I can use my DCR-250 on my S3 (58mm adapter) from around 100mm and up to the 432mm. Depends on what YOU mean with long end though, but just thought I'd clarify how it is on my camera..
Oh, and here's the DCR-250 butterfly .
It is possible, but a DCR-150 would be so much better for this kind of photography..
Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.
Http://sebastianfoto.se/..
I forget at which focal length on my cameras they start to vignette but I think it is something like you can't use the first 30% of the zoom..
I use the closeups on a Panasonic FZ8 and with a home made adapter on a TZ3. On the TZ3 it is really fun to have a close up on such a compact camera. Very easy macro travel kit.terryhttp://tbanet.zenfolio.com/..
TEBnewyork wrote:.
I forget at which focal length on my cameras they start to vignettebut I think it is something like you can't use the first 30% of thezoom..
I use the closeups on a Panasonic FZ8 and with a home made adapter ona TZ3. On the TZ3 it is really fun to have a close up on such acompact camera. Very easy macro travel kit.terryhttp://tbanet.zenfolio.com/.
Yeah that about it, first third (or around fourth on my smaller S3) of the zoomrange gives vignetting....a little depending on aperture too..
Saying "you can only use the long end" like you did might fool someone to think it's the other way around....that you could only use the last third..
Homemade adapter? Cool As you say, that ought to make a real compact macro traveling kit http://sebastianfoto.se/..
This is a great discussion! I'm learning a lot..
I have a couple of questions, however...I have a new Fuji FinePix s6000fd (s6500fd). I would like to buy a close-up filter/lens that will give me "super macro" (or better) capabilities with the zoom so that I can avoid the light issues with the lens being so close to the subject in supermacro mode..
I believe the s6000 has a 58mm lens thread. Will the Canon 250 or the Nikon lens/filters work on my camera?.
When you say "long end" do you mean with the lens zoomed all the way out or all the way in? Several posts below yours the discussion got kind of murky in this regard.DWIn the High Desert of Central Oregon..
DWFII wrote:.
This is a great discussion! I'm learning a lot..
I have a couple of questions, however...I have a new Fuji FinePixs6000fd (s6500fd). I would like to buy a close-up filter/lens thatwill give me "super macro" (or better) capabilities with the zoom sothat I can avoid the light issues with the lens being so close to thesubject in supermacro mode..
I believe the s6000 has a 58mm lens thread. Will the Canon 250 or theNikon lens/filters work on my camera?.
The Raynox's will work. I believe canon does do a 58mm thread (mine is 52 so be careful when buying). The Nikons are 52mm The 5T and 6T are bigger at I think 62mm so you would need a step ring..
When you say "long end" do you mean with the lens zoomed all the wayout or all the way in? Several posts below yours the discussion gotkind of murky in this regard..
If you are zoomed at between approx. 100- to max in the 400's, you are fine. At the wide end 28 or 35mm up to about 100mm you will have vignetting on the Raynox's.
DWIn the High Desert of Central Oregon.
Terryhttp://tbanet.zenfolio.com/..
That was very clear, thank you. My S6k will go 28mm to 300 mm. Now all I have to do is decide diopter(?)...the Raynox 250 is 8+...Is that right? How about the Sony VCLM 3358? What is it's strength?.
Any other recommendations?DWIn the High Desert of Central Oregon..
The Raynox 150 +4 the 250 +8. If you want to do close up bugs or very small plant detail the 250 is the way to go. I think the 150 gives you much more flexibility and is easier to use..
I don't know the Sony at all.terryhttp://tbanet.zenfolio.com/..