Not a single one of these. I don't know what your model really looks like but all the skin tones look weird and sickly to me.Don't wait for the Nikon D-whatever, have fun now!http://www.flickr.com/photos/j_wijnands/..
The warm one (second one) is the better of the bunch, but the lighting could be so much better on them all. The skin tones on the others look a little grey on my screen..
Also the crop is a little too tight. For this type of portrait shot, it would have been better if you had included BOTH shoulders..
MATT..
Thanks Matt. Are you sure you like the second one? I think it has too much yellow in it and not enough red to balance the skin tones. As far as the lighting, this was shot around 5pm in a shade. If a $700 dollar camera can't get the proper lighting without having to PP every single shot than I don't what will. After all we should all expect a decent image quality out of a $700 dollar camera for crying out loud!!!.
I was trying to get the "correct" exposure out of the camera at the time of shooting without doing too much PP on my computer. It's a steep learning curve with DSLRs I tell you..
Also, does anyone use any of the picture styles in the canons? One more thing: I noticed that when I was focusing during the shot, the center focus point would light up, and before I'd press the shutter all the way other AF point would light up as well. Is this normal? Anyone know?..
Ok, lets try this again. I went back to DPP and changed the white balance to "daylight." Set the pic style to portrait, adjusted the color tone to -2, increased the color saturation +4..
Http://picasaweb.google.com/...1973/UntitledAlbum02/photo#5091080934878728978..
I think somebody asked me what my model looks like. Oh, I think I know what she looks like. She's my wife for cryin' out loud! Here's a frontal shot. I adjusted the color tone and saturation and set the white balance to daylight again. It's slightly blurry due to me not using a tripod again!.
Http://picasaweb.google.com/...1973/UntitledAlbum03/photo#5091089700906980146..
Shuttrrbug wrote:.
After all we should allexpect a decent image quality out of a $700 dollar camera for cryingout loud!!!.
The camera exposed and set WB etc for the scene as a whole, but you need to get the skin-tones right in a shot like that..
Your options were to spot meter, or zoom in tight on the model, half press the shutter release, press the * button to lock exposure etc, then recompose and shoot..
Otherwise, try to get a better balance of lighting between the model and background with a tiny bit of fill flash or a reflector..
Other than that, shoot RAW (this really is a no brainer), get a little Huey or Spider to profile your monitor, and then trust your own eyes and the monitor..
Trevorhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/trevor-dennis/..
Picture was in shade (which is good), but under a tree, the light is often too green. Your 2nd version was the closest to having good skin color, but it too was much too green. Try doing a custom WB with a neutral card?.
I "fixed" the color with PSE5. I thought your composition had the face too central for interest. She should be looking toward the center of the pic. Face also too low. I cropped it a bit..
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As other post suggested, use a bit of fill flash. This will brighten the face and darken the background..
Charlie DavisNikon 5700 & Sony R1HomePage: http://www.1derful.infoBridge Blog: http://www.here-ugo.com/BridgeBlog/..
Thank you trevor. Unfortunately, my camera (canon Rebel XTI 400D) doesn't have a spot meter, and I don't know how to use that feature yet. What my camera does have is the focus lock you were reffereing to. My question on that feature is this: say I zoom in, set the correct exposure and press shutter button halfway and the focus lock button, then zoom out and recompose before taking the shot. By zooming out, won't my exposure setting be different and need to be readjusted?..
Thank you Charlie. I think you edit looks best so far and I love the crop which gives the photo the right perspective in my opinion. I don't know how to "custom WB with a neutral card" just yet, but I promise to learn. I think I read something about it in my owner's manual if my memory serves me well. I will have to go back to the manual...
It's the end user behind it. Doesn't your software allow for white and black calibration points?Don't wait for the Nikon D-whatever, have fun now!http://www.flickr.com/photos/j_wijnands/..
Even this has a somewhat yellow-greenish tinge to it.Don't wait for the Nikon D-whatever, have fun now!http://www.flickr.com/photos/j_wijnands/..
I have heard that getting good colour - and especially good skin tones - out of a Canon is difficult, but never thought it was *so* difficult.To be honest, none of these looks right to me, though it may only be my monitor..
Number two is about the best but it is too warm overall. If hard pressed, I'd go with that one..
Shuttrrbug wrote:.
Which one would you choose and why???.
They're all shot in manual mode using the "portrait" picture style inthe camera (Canon Rebel XTI 400D). I did the PP in DPP. You can readabout the adjustments I made below each photo..
These reproductions from DPP to Picasa are accurate..
Thanks in advance!.
Here's the link:.
Http://picasaweb.google.com/rebornfree1973/UntitledAlbum.
Pbase Supporter..
Your original....
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My retouch....
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I noticed the image was in RGB (fine for printing but not for web). I converted to sRGB for web. Cropped, adj. skin tones using Selective color adj., levels & saturation, blur background, sharpen face, and add vignette. Goal is to try to seperate subfect from background. I would have shot with a wider aperture for more DOF and used flash for "fill" on subject. I would study the owners manual and practice some more.Dave..
Shuttrrbug wrote:.
Thanks Matt. Are you sure you like the second one? I think it has toomuch yellow in it and not enough red to balance the skin tones. Asfar as the lighting, this was shot around 5pm in a shade. If a $700dollar camera can't get the proper lighting without having to PPevery single shot than I don't what will. After all we should allexpect a decent image quality out of a $700 dollar camera for cryingout loud!!!I was trying to get the "correct" exposure out of the camera at thetime of shooting without doing too much PP on my computer. It's asteep learning curve with DSLRs I tell you.Also, does anyone use any of the picture styles in the canons? Onemore thing: I noticed that when I was focusing during the shot, thecenter focus point would light up, and before I'd press the shutterall the way other AF point would light up as well.
This does not equal better photography, it will always be the person behind the camera. learn your equipment to get the best out of it..
25 years as a freelancer,(news,magazine, wedding photography) camera equip. over the years: Practica MLT, Canon A1, Minolta 9xi, 7xi, Dimage Z1,Fuji 5200,Canon S2,Pentax K100D,Olympus 380(see my Z1 shots athttp://www.photobucket.com ALBUM NAME: buckl the COMMUNITY album was done with the Z1, and most of the photos in the album:Other were w/the Z1)..
In one shot mode, half pressure on the shutter release locks the focus. The * button locks exposure. In your shot you need to expose for the model, and either let the background blow out, or bring the foreground lighting closer to the background..
Trevorhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/trevor-dennis/..
Thats a very good attempt Dave, Nice and vivid and warmed up beautifully, but a little halo/colour leaking around the face..
I agree with all you said apart from the DOF. I think the DOF is just right as it is..
Shuttrrbug, you cant expect to buy an expensive camera, and have it do all the work for you correctly out of the box. It is 80% the person behind it (experience/knowledge etc), 10% conditions/subject, 5% good luck and 5% equipment..
Its like buying a MotoGP race bike, and expecting to keep up with Valentino Rossi. He would still leave you behind if he was on a road going bike..
MATT..
You're right Matt. One of the steps I masked gave me a problem (I had a terrible time following the edge).Dave..
Dave you're the best! I didn't realize that my DPP was set to Adobe RGB instead of sRGB. What a difference did that make when I changed to sRGB!!! I remember when I first installed the DPP when I got my camera, it was set to sRGB by Canon, then I read somewhere that Adobe RGB is "better" so I changed to Adobe RGB without knowing what it really meant. Would you suggest I change it back to Adobe RGB again whenever I print? Yes, there's a lot of green on her face from the tree she was sitting under and I failed to notice that. Thanks to some great advice on this message board, I know what I have to do now when a similar situation arises..
You're right Matt, I should have expected this (rewarding) learning curve when I got the camera. Not only that, there's a great deal to learn about color management with the monitor, printer etc., and PP...
I am having a problem with "converting and saving" in DPP. Since I already set the preference to sRGB, when I convert and save and check the info on the converted JPEG file, it says the color space is Adobe RGB (1998)!!! The color space on the original RAW file is sRGB which is fine. I tried restarting the DPP, but that didn't work...
All I can tell you is what I did when I went digital. At first, I shot & printed JPEG, sRGB. As I got more comfortable with what I was doing, I went to Adobe RGB & RAW. I'm a firm believer in the KISS approach to this. If you throw too many variables into the mix at once, when things go wrong, it's hard to figure out why.Dave..
In all honesty I think the second of your original batch was fine. Only you know how accurate the colour was, and in my opinion it looked warm without going too far. The slight cast it adds to the background is irrelevant as people will not be looking there..
A few of the attempts made by others after that are way over-saturated ( again, just IMO ) and not a look I would go for myself. Your second version of batch one seemed natural, which is what I like..
And also, I like the pose..
Conclusion - you don't need any help from anyone. .
StephenG.
Pentax K100DFuji S5200Fuji E900PCLinuxOS..

