Hello Carolyn, I'm going to try and help you with this decision as best I can. That said, this could take a while so forgive me for being long-winded as I endeavor to be as thorough as possible. In addition, if I discuss something of which you are already quite familiar, please do not assume I'm talking down to you. I don't know what is your level of expertise so I'm just going to start with the basics. First, either Canon or Nikon will be a fine all-around dSLR. Each company will offer plenty of lens options and there are even more via third party manufacturers (Tamron, Sigma, Tokina, etc.).

The better choice for you will be the one that better fits your hand and where the controls fall naturally to finger tip. I personally shoot with a Canon 40D dSLR, but came from a Nikon film SLR. The Canon just worked better for me. Second, as you will be shooting sports I strongly urge you to acquire a vertical grip for whichever camera you purchase. Running around $120-$150 these devices attach to the camera body and allow you to hold the camera very comfortably when shooting in portrait mode (imagine shooting a player doing a lay-up...

Third, in Nikon nomenclature "VR" stands for Vibration Reduction. Canon uses the term IS (Image Stabilization). Both do the same exact thing in the same exact way, but just have different names. VR/IS is a way for the lens to reduce the effect of camera shake while you are holding and shooting images. Camera shake becomes markedly more noticeable when one is panning to shoot the subject (as you might pan for a hockey player moving up the ice) as it is difficult to hold the camera perfectly level while panning.

Were your subjects static I wouldn't spend the cash. Fourth, the longer focal length lenses will be of great service to you if you are shooting from further away (say... in the stands as opposed to on the floor at the basketball game). However, the downside to trying to shoot in an indoor gym with a long focal length is that the lens lets into the camera less light at that extreme telephoto end. For example, a quick look at Adorama.com for a Canon T1i package shows an 18-55 with IS and a 55-250 with IS.

This means the lens allows in less than half the amount of light at 250mm as it did at 55mm. That is a major loss of light to a camera's sensor, which are notoriously hungry for light (they are much, much less efficient at taking in light when compared to the human eye). So there is a distinct trade-off for obtaining a lens with a longer focal length unless you spend the cash (and it's more serious cash) for a lens that has a larger aperture when at full zoom. For example, I own the Canon 70-200mm f/4 L USM IS lens. It offers a constant maximum aperture of f/4 over the entire zoom range, which is quite handy.

A even more potent version of the 70-200mm from Canon is the f/2.8, which retails for $1,900, but at f/2.8 it lets in a lot of light. However, you could try looking at a far less expensive option such as the Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 which shows for $730 at Adorama. It, however, doesn't include anything akin to Vibration Reduction. That said, it's larger aperture may move up your shutter speed sufficiently such that the need for VR isn't as readily apparent. It's a trade-off and I hesitate to recommend one over the other (one being quite expensive and one being without VR/IS).

Fifth, you ask about 270mm vs 300mm.... yes, there is a difference in how much closer the 300mm will make subjects appear but I wouldn't say that it's a major advantage because there may be some loss of light gathering ability by the lens. It's probably better to look at what is the aperture for those two lenses at those longest focal lengths. If they are the same then go for the 300, but if the 270mm opens a bit larger then it might be more handy considering the places you will be shooting are notoriously dark as far as camera sensors are concerned. Sixth, I cannot speak to the deal offered on the used camera.

Nor can I speak to the ability of whether or not you can use te Nikon 55mm E-serious lens on the D5000. You would have to ask someone more familiar with Nikon. I can say that there are examples of entry-level dSLRs from both Canon and Nikon that do not work with older lenses. Seventh, you may wish to do some reading regarding the low-light qualities of each camera. One way to increase the sensitivity of a camera's sensor is to increase the ISO setting.

Most entry-level dSLRs will offer reasonably clean images up to ISO 800, which may be high enough for the work you will be doing. But it couldn't hurt to do some reading on both cameras and see what reviewers say about using each camera at ISO settings above 800. My personal favourite resource for camera reviews is dpreview.com, based in London, England. A quick check of their site shows they have reviews of each camera. You can use their drop down box to select the various parts of the review so that you don't have to read about everything.

You could compare the D5000 next to the T1i by opening two tabs in your web browser, thus making a side-by-side comparison very easy. I guess that's all I have to offer. If I've made any claims that sound contrary to things you have read or heard, please feel free to post a reply and ask for clarification, etc. ~Mark.

Wow, Thank you Mark for your thorough reply. I have checked dpreview that both cameras were highly rated. The Pentax KX was also very highly rated, but no camera stores stock it, and I would hestitate to buy a camera that no one was familiar with if I had problems. I didn't compare the pictures of the different iso's side by side, but that seems like a good idea. Both claim to be able to shoot at very high ISO. I probably should check out the images at 800 and 1600, since I think that is the ISO I'd use.



Carolyn.

You're quite welcome Carolyn. Considering the amount of money one can spend on a new camera, lenses, accessories, etc. it truly does pay to relax and compare. It's an important decision undoubtedly. There are other manufacturers like Sony, Olympus and Pentax (to name a few) who are working hard to attract buyers. They have interesting price points and features (and I've heard good things about the Pentax line), but in the end it's hard to go wrong with a Canon or Nikon if for no other reason you can always find a camera shop when you need one that carries these two brands.

And yes, 1600 ISO would be a good place to begin a comparison of image quality. And don't forget... moving to a dSLR means you can shoot in the RAW file format and work those images harder in processing software so that you might extract the best image possible, as opposed to letting the camera do that work when you shoot in straight-up JPEG..

I am also considering between Canon and Nikon (leaning to Canon)and I was really impressed with your detailed explanation of things to look for. I have been looking at various magazines and reviews, but none of them compare to the information you have provided. The info is valuable and I thank you for that.

I have printed this info so that I remember what to look for when I buy the camera ( I have ba...d memory). Canon has a t2i now so most likely that is the one I'll be getting. Thanks again for the wonderful insight..

Hi mark ill se you know a lot about cmaras so I will like to ask you who is best to buy canon 500d or sony 550 alfa.

So if you have time and dont minde please give mi a tip.

Thanks .

    paul.