Hi metalliholic07,.
I own a Canon S3 IS myself and I think it is a fantastic camera and in a general side-by-side comparison I think the S3 is better value for the money over the Fuji 6000. But, as it is so often in photography and what's best for me must not be best for you. This much said, even though I think the S3 is slightly superior, I don't think it would be the right or best camera in your case. Both cameras are very similar, but following your description of what you want to use it for, in particular the concerts and low light application, the Fuji has several advantages that beat the Canon hands down (as much as I hate to admit it)..
First and most importantly: Low light pictures. The Fuji has much better performance in low light and at high ISO settings. Pictures still have very good quality and are very well usable at ISO 800, whereas Canon's image quality becomes questionable at anything higher than ISO 200 (In practice this means you will be able to select faster shutter speeds with the FUJI to avoid motion blurred pictures)..
As a contrast the S3 offers image stabilization, which reduces handshake and allows you to shoot images at slower shutter speeds than usually possible by hand, HOWEVER this feature is only useful for almost stationary objects, as it will not avoid motion blur. (as I wrote *slower* shutter speed, whereas by increasing the ISO value you can speed-up shutter speeds).
Ah, and regardless of allowed or not, forget about using the flash - the flash on both cameras will be useless for anything beyond ~4-5 meters..
Secondly, even though the Canon has a much longer zoom on the long end 432mm (which is roughly 8.5x magnification of normal vision) vs. 300mm (which is equivalent to about 6x magnification), the Fuji - with 28mm - beats the Canon - with 35mm - on the wide angle end. This may not sound like much but 7mm difference it's a big step at wide angle. In practice this will allow you to capture more of the stage if you are sitting in first row..
Hope I could helpcheers,becksi.
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Hi, new here, and this site was recommended to me by a friend, andhe suggested I come here to read reviews and post any questions.I've narrowed my camera search down to 2 cameras that I feel willsuit my needs just fine, but one thing that is most important isbeing able to take pictures at concerts when I have front row(orclose) seats, and especially when they don't allow flash. Both ofthese cameras will suit my general picture takingneeds........taking a picture of a cool cloud formation, my catdoing something funny, a car at a car show, scenery, etc. but whatI'm undecided on based on reviews at Amazon and whatnot, is whichone will be better at concerts, with being dependent on only stagelighting at times, and some action. Any and all opinions greatlyappreciated. Thanks in advance!..
DSLRs are way better than the best P&S cameras in low light (good high ISO performance). Nikon D40 & Pentax K100D are among the best for that (Both can go upto ISO3200. IQ is good.). If more zoom is required than consider Olympus E500 with twin-kit lens. At <$550, it is bang for the bucks..
Among P&S S6000fd is the best for such applications, if you shoot in Raw mode and PP all shots. Else Fuji F31fd is better..
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Hi, new here, and this site was recommended to me by a friend, andhe suggested I come here to read reviews and post any questions.I've narrowed my camera search down to 2 cameras that I feel willsuit my needs just fine, but one thing that is most important isbeing able to take pictures at concerts when I have front row(orclose) seats, and especially when they don't allow flash. Both ofthese cameras will suit my general picture takingneeds........taking a picture of a cool cloud formation, my catdoing something funny, a car at a car show, scenery, etc. but whatI'm undecided on based on reviews at Amazon and whatnot, is whichone will be better at concerts, with being dependent on only stagelighting at times, and some action. Any and all opinions greatlyappreciated. Thanks in advance!.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
If it's the S3 or the S600 for what you want the S6000 will win. It has a fine zoom manual twist control, take excellent low light pictures ( which improve a little more if you shoot raw and use a third part noise reduction application like NeatImage or NoiseNinja )..
As you can't use flash, you don't need a hot-shoe..
One point - the S6500 looks like a big SLR, and some concerts and shows might not like you lugging it in and may even bar you !.
An alternative, if you're close, would be the compact Fuji F30/F31. These have the same sensor as the S6500, with a 3x zoom. They won't scare security and they will take good shots in low light without a flash. If you need a little more zoom you could look at adding a converter+adapter to the F30/F31..
StephenG.
Fuji S9600Fuji S5200Fuji F30Fuji E900Canon A710ISPCLinuxOS..
I've read the reviews on this site (over and over again)...and although (or maybe because) I am kind of a novice with a camera, I can't really decide between the two myself..
I want to do close ups and still photos, mostly. But I want a camera that will do all around photography too...at least adequately or slightly better than adequately. I like natural light whenever possible but want to get as close to natural, true colours as I can. On my present camera I use a manual white balance a lot..
I guess the things that bother me about the Fuji S6000 is that folks on the fujifilm thread seem to suggest that it is not a very good choice for point and shoot or casual photography. Some even state that it is a terrible camera at any price. It doesn't seem to have image stabization...which might be useful for close shots. And many photos seem to need post camera adjustment...which I'm not very good at, frankly..
The things that bother me about the S3 is that the focus seems to be slightly soft and there is a higher than average distortion on close-ups. Those seem like critical drawbacks for my intended usage. And I wouldn't mind being able to shoot in somewhat low light...again I prefer natural light. Adequate results at ISO 400 would be nice. Also no RAW..
I can't afford a SLR...
I had already responded to the original query but the remarks about the S6500 demand some response and IMO, correction..
The S6000/65000 is a wonderful camera, particularly at it's current price levels. About the only criticisms I would level at it are lack of IS and the fact it's a big camera. Image quality is, under all circumstances, excellent for a non-DSLR..
IS is not as useful as you seem to think for close up ( I assume you mean macro ). I've shot macro hand-held with and without IS and I think it makes little difference. The biggest issue is DOF and focus, which IS won't help with. Incidentally the S6000/.6500 has a very good macro facility. If that's your thing - have a closer look at it..
Big is, strictly speaking, not a problem, but an advantage. It's a stable well designed shooting platform. Smaller cameras are crippled in this regard. With the S600/6500 and my own S9100/9600 you get an almost perfect DSLR-like handling. Some other bridge cameras are similar. This is not simply an act of trying to look like a DSLR - it's the best design for a camera as a shooting platform..
Whether it's the ideal camera for a given task or individual is a different issue, but in the Fuji forum and elsewhere it's highly regarded as a general all round camera with excellent low light capability..
No camera is perfect, but the S600/S6500 is certainly one of the best bridge cameras..
StephenG.
Fuji S9600Fuji S5200Fuji F30Fuji E900Canon A710ISPCLinuxOS..
I appreciate your comments...I didn't mean to, and hope I didn't, hijack the thread. I wish I could get enough feedback on both these cameras to make a decision. I have handled the S3. I have played with it just a little. I wish I could handle and play with the S6000, as well..
I know that no camera is perfect and that, in all liklihood, no camera will do everything I want it to do perfectly. But, like a lot of folks, I will get one shot at this...I need to be happy with my choice..
Until I read the several posts on the Fuji forum from folks who were having a miserable time with the camera, I was nearly sold. The responses to those posts were nearly all positive but seemed to stress that the solutions lay in manual adjustments and/or more expertise. I don't think I am any more skilled or intelligent that those folks who were having trouble and I wonder if I can muster the knowledge to do any better..
Or if I should have to, considering that the Canon seems to be more "user friendly."..
Using any camera requires a little effort to get the best. the term "Point-and-Shoot" sounds great in marketing leaflets but is nonsense, in the same was as "Sit-and-Drive" would sound like nonsense in a car advert..
Automatic is exactly what you'd expect - the machine trying to guess what you want. You need to tweak the controls to direct it to produce what you want. Typically it takes a little practice to identify the settings that work for you and your tastes..
The best thing anyone can do is buy a book on basic photography before they buy the camera. At least have it there when you start experimenting. You don't have to become expert, but a basic understanding is of immense benefit..
StephenG.
Fuji S9600Fuji S5200Fuji F30Fuji E900Canon A710ISPCLinuxOS..
I've got the S3 IS as well. I love it. I also have a Nikon D80 dSLR and Nikon N80/F80 film SLR. Sometimes I shoot a Mamiya 645 AF Pro medium format too..
They both would likely hold up well for all-around use. The thing about choosing any camera is priorities. I'd agree completely w/ becksi. The Fuji is prolly better for your needs. I don't have any personal experience w/ that camera. I do know that the Fuji sensors are remarkable for higher ISO's and better auto white balance than other camera systems..
I'd like to offer a slight correction, however. The S3 IS is 36-432mm. This is EXACTLY 12x optical zoom. And at 36mm f/2.7 is FAST. At 432mm f/3.5 is FAST AND LONG. Seriously.
Size of body, size of lens, expense of these same things and reasonable accessories is a WAY different scale. And, seemingly irresponsible to suggest given your OT..
Again, back to becksi's comments. I'd gladly give up long to get a 28mm wide angle. It's simple really. But the articulating screen is SOOOOO useful for video, low-ground-level macros and above-the-crowd shots at events..
For some macro stuff IS can help. I was at an orchid show and brought by S3. Some spots, light was really poor. I was shooting at ISO 200 1/8 sec handheld and getting quite a few keepers! And yes, I was caffeinated too! For long tele shots, it definitely matters..
I don't care to 'bash' either. I really don't know the Fuji at all. I can say I wouldn't trust shooting at ISO 400 for an important event on my S3. And even at 200, I'd strongly suggest using Noiseware. Here, the Fuji is supposed to excel far beyond other mfr's. I'm sure you've read up about it already..
S3 IS soft? No WAY! I've regularly shot w/ pros that can't believe some images from my S3... "That just shouldn't be possible w/ a p&s... and ultra-zoom." Of course, I shoot my D80 for serious work & interest... I'm talking more about shots from before I got my dSLR..
Obviously, my D80 is hands down a better camera and feature rich to boot. But no live preview. No articulated LCD. No live histogram. No color accent or color swap mode. No in-camera IS.
You get the idea... One can argue for a dSLR. But one can also argue that sometimes a p&s is a BETTER CHOICE..
Cheers.Davidmy flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/prodesma/..
Prodesma,.
Thank you for the kind words and the agreement. The way you are describing the camera(s) - especially the the S3 - could have evolved from my own words and thinking. Even though I own (and have owned) mostly Canon cameras, I don't like to bash on other camera brands. Again, I think there is not ONE best camera, but the is only ONE best camera that fills your (ones) needs. I would like to offer a few more additional thoughts and elements in my comments below.
Prodesma wrote:.
I've got the S3 IS as well. I love it. I also have a Nikon D80dSLR and Nikon N80/F80 film SLR. Sometimes I shoot a Mamiya 645 AFPro medium format too..
They both would likely hold up well for all-around use. The thingabout choosing any camera is priorities. I'd agree completely w/becksi. The Fuji is prolly better for your needs. I don't haveany personal experience w/ that camera. I do know that the Fujisensors are remarkable for higher ISO's and better auto whitebalance than other camera systems..
I'd like to offer a slight correction, however. The S3 IS is36-432mm. This is EXACTLY 12x optical zoom..
Absolutely correct, the S3 is a 12x zoom, which refers to the multiplication factor the Canon S3 offers if you take the shortest zoom to the longest zoom. In order to compare the two cameras (the S3 and the S6000) I took a common denominatior of around 50mm - which roughly reflects human vision - to show how the 12x zoom of the S3 compared to the 10.7x times zoom of the S6000..
And at 36mm f/2.7 isFAST. At 432mm f/3.5 is FAST AND LONG. Seriously. Others thatmight suggest an entry dSLR are way off here. Size of body, sizeof lens, expense of these same things and reasonable accessories isa WAY different scale. And, seemingly irresponsible to suggestgiven your OT..
I couldn't agree more. But I would like to add that the S3 - again in my opiniion and from having tried and tested both cameras extensively - the CANON offers livlier colors than the FUJI.
Again, back to becksi's comments. I'd gladly give up long to get a28mm wide angle. It's simple really. But the articulating screenis SOOOOO useful for video, low-ground-level macros andabove-the-crowd shots at events..
For some macro stuff IS can help. I was at an orchid show andbrought by S3. Some spots, light was really poor. I was shootingat ISO 200 1/8 sec handheld and getting quite a few keepers! Andyes, I was caffeinated too! For long tele shots, it definitelymatters..
IS is fantastic and definitately something that has helped me capture great images even in low light conditions - when movement was slow. The limitations are with motion. High ISO is more beneficial than IS when it comes to motion. I hope that one of those days there will be a (non DSLR) camera to offer the best of both worlds - high quality high ISO performance PLUS IS..
I don't care to 'bash' either. I really don't know the Fuji atall. I can say I wouldn't trust shooting at ISO 400 for animportant event on my S3. And even at 200, I'd strongly suggestusing Noiseware. Here, the Fuji is supposed to excel far beyondother mfr's. I'm sure you've read up about it already..
S3 IS soft? No WAY! I've regularly shot w/ pros that can'tbelieve some images from my S3... "That just shouldn't be possiblew/ a p&s... and ultra-zoom." Of course, I shoot my D80 for seriouswork & interest... I'm talking more about shots from before I gotmy dSLR..
Again, you have my agreement, I have not experienced my S3 to ever be soft (but I haven't used it in any and every phot condition yet). There are always certain limitations you have to deal with - with any camera. It's more important to know about those limitations and to know the way to work around it, than to wait for the perfect system..
Obviously, my D80 is hands down a better camera and feature rich toboot. But no live preview. No articulated LCD. No livehistogram. No color accent or color swap mode. No in-camera IS.No 60 fps video.
One can argue for a dSLR.But one can also argue that sometimes a p&s is a BETTER CHOICE..
This much said, and reading the paragraph above, the S3 currently offer a lot of (the best) bang for your buck. But than again, always keep in mind, are you going to use/need those features or is it just statistics?.
Make the right decision for YOU!.
Cheersbecksi.
Cheers.Davidmy flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/prodesma/..
Hey everyone,...........thanks for the responses. I'm really leaning towards the S6000, but a part of me knows the S3 is a good choice also, except for when I go to a concert. Like someone said, sometimes cameras aren't even allowed, so then it obviously wouldn't matter at all, and I don't go to concerts every week. I go to maybe a half dozen a year, and I aways try to get up close. I wonder how "inferior" my shots would be from an S3, compared to an S6000. Because the S3 is a little smaller, and has IS, I can't help wonder if whatever quality loss I would get would be a big deal to me.It sure sounds like the S6000 would do a better job at concerts, but other than that, they are neck and neck.
How true is this?? I mean, If I carefully read the manual, is it THAT hard????.
Thius is a tough decision for me. Oh, and the S6000 has a manual zoom.......is that good or bad? My wife has a S7000, and it has a electronic zoom. Again, thanks in advance for any more advice, and the advice already given is greatly appreciated...
Please read below ....
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Hey everyone,...........thanks for the responses. I'm reallyleaning towards the S6000, but a part of me knows the S3 is a goodchoice also, except for when I go to a concert. Like someone said,sometimes cameras aren't even allowed, so then it obviouslywouldn't matter at all, and I don't go to concerts every week. I goto maybe a half dozen a year, and I aways try to get up close. Iwonder how "inferior" my shots would be from an S3, compared to anS6000. Because the S3 is a little smaller, and has IS, I can't helpwonder if whatever quality loss I would get would be a big deal tome..
Let me put it this way - every shot that you miss will be a lost one. The IS will help you - up to 3 stops - in low light if there is little movement. It will compensate for unsteady hand shake, but it won't be able to slow down movement and avoid blurry images by motion.
The higher ISO usability will enable you to take pictures that do involve movement on stage (not to the very extreme, of course, but in the range of 2-3 stops as well)..
It sure sounds like the S6000 would do a better job at concerts,but other than that, they are neck and neck. Someone mentioned theS6000 being not so good for a beginner, and a little harder to use.How true is this?? I mean, If I carefully read the manual, is itTHAT hard????.
The start is always the hardest part. Meaning if you are beginner it will always take some time, effort and work to get used to a devices (cameras) operation modes and settings. But once you are over that hump, if will be fine..
Thius is a tough decision for me. Oh, and the S6000 has a manualzoom.......is that good or bad?.
Manual focus option is definitely good. Autofocus works by evalutating contrast differences. Sometimes it's hard to get the focus to lock in low light. If you are in a specific spot, you can just manually set the focus and stop worrying about focusing issues..
My wife has a S7000, and it has aelectronic zoom. Again, thanks in advance for any more advice, andthe advice already given is greatly appreciated...
I think they are both excellent. I would think the lower noise of the S6500 would be better ( freeze action, rather than slow shutter speed )..
Manual focus is a useful feature, but you won't use it in a concert. It's just too hard to use for that, I think..
RAW mode might be useful, as it may help rescue shots that get over- or under-exposed in a challenging environment. However RAW is a skill you may have to learn, and may not want to, so perhaps it's useless to you personally..
The S3 is certainly no slouch and I don't think anyone would knock it or claim it's yards ahead or behind the S6500..
You really have reached the point of trying both in the store. Play with them awhile and decide which you are comfortable with. If you can get them on approval and try them for an extended period do that..
StephenG.
Fuji S9600Fuji S5200Fuji F30Fuji E900Canon A710ISPCLinuxOS..
1. S3IS. Bang for the bucks (more zoom, better movie mode with I.S., smaller). I.S. is akin to having virtual tripod, far more useful..
2. As far as concert photos are concerned, S3IS is not so bad. Results will be grainy but with plenty of details. And the noise will only be visible if you print larger than 5x7. Will you print larger? Than go for a DSLR..
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Hey everyone,...........thanks for the responses. I'm reallyleaning towards the S6000, but a part of me knows the S3 is a goodchoice also, except for when I go to a concert..
Right. The difference is not as much as it is made out to be. Only DSLR will do good enough job, if you print large..
Like someone said,sometimes cameras aren't even allowed, so then it obviouslywouldn't matter at all, and I don't go to concerts every week. I goto maybe a half dozen a year, and I aways try to get up close. Iwonder how "inferior" my shots would be from an S3, compared to anS6000. Because the S3 is a little smaller, and has IS, I can't helpwonder if whatever quality loss I would get would be a big deal tome..
The difference is not as much as it is made out to be. ISO1600 is unusable on S6000. ISO800 is a bit cleaner than S3IS. Both capture plenty of details. That is it..
It sure sounds like the S6000 would do a better job at concerts,but other than that, they are neck and neck. Someone mentioned theS6000 being not so good for a beginner, and a little harder to use..
I.S. will be of help to a beginner. Other than that no difference..
How true is this?? I mean, If I carefully read the manual, is itTHAT hard????.
No..
Thius is a tough decision for me. Oh, and the S6000 has a manualzoom.......is that good or bad?My wife has a S7000, and it has a electronic zoom.
Manula zoom is hepful in precise framing (continuous movement), while electronic zoom moves in small steps. But not worth the worry as those steps are small enough.. Again, thanks in advance for any more advice, and.
The advice already given is greatly appreciated..
Only issue worth considering among these two is whether you fancy "wide angle" (useful for cityscapes, buildings, group photos, landscapes) or "more zoom" (wild-life, concerts, birds street photography). S6000fd wider-angle zoom starts at 28mm focal length (35mm equi.), while Canon S3iIS start at 36mm.Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
Ajay0612 wrote:.
1. S3IS. Bang for the bucks (more zoom, better movie mode withI.S., smaller). I.S. is akin to having virtual tripod, far moreuseful.2. As far as concert photos are concerned, S3IS is not so bad.Results will be grainy but with plenty of details.
Will you printlarger?.
No. In fact, won't print a ton, but will save on my computer and/or discs.
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Hey everyone,...........thanks for the responses. I'm reallyleaning towards the S6000, but a part of me knows the S3 is a goodchoice also, except for when I go to a concert..
Right. The difference is not as much as it is made out to be..
Would I be able to immediately see the difference if same shot was taken with both cameras, and put in front of me? The way the S6000 is praised in many reviews, the difference "sounds" dramatic..
Like someone said,sometimes cameras aren't even allowed, so then it obviouslywouldn't matter at all, and I don't go to concerts every week. I goto maybe a half dozen a year, and I aways try to get up close. Iwonder how "inferior" my shots would be from an S3, compared to anS6000. Because the S3 is a little smaller, and has IS, I can't helpwonder if whatever quality loss I would get would be a big deal tome..
The difference is not as much as it is made out to be. ISO1600 isunusable on S6000. ISO800 is a bit cleaner than S3IS. Both captureplenty of details. That is it..
It sure sounds like the S6000 would do a better job at concerts,but other than that, they are neck and neck. Someone mentioned theS6000 being not so good for a beginner, and a little harder to use..
I.S. will be of help to a beginner. Other than that no difference..
How true is this?? I mean, If I carefully read the manual, is itTHAT hard????.
No..
Thius is a tough decision for me. Oh, and the S6000 has a manualzoom.......is that good or bad?My wife has a S7000, and it has a electronic zoom.
Manula zoom is hepful in precise framing (continuous movement),while electronic zoom moves in small steps. But not worth the worryas those steps are small enough.. Again, thanks in advance for any more advice, and.
The advice already given is greatly appreciated..
Only issue worth considering among these two is whether you fancy"wide angle" (useful for cityscapes, buildings, group photos,landscapes) or "more zoom" (wild-life, concerts, birds streetphotography). S6000fd wider-angle zoom starts at 28mm focallength (35mm equi.), while Canon S3iIS start at 36mm..
Some of these things do apply, but out of the things you mentioned, getting good shots at a concert, to me, is taking shots of the individual band members at different times......like when the guitar player is playing his solo, or whatever. Recently, I saw Michael Schenker(guitar player from the rock band UFO) at a small club,and was never more than 3 feet away from him, with no flash allowed, and I had my Fuji Finepix A340, and was sooo frustrated that I wasn't able to get any good shots. I got a few keepers, but I do realize that is a cheap camera, only good for general use with perfect conditions. I came home, and told myself that can't happen again..
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Would I be able to immediately see the difference if same shot wastaken with both cameras, and put in front of me? The way the S6000is praised in many reviews, the difference "sounds" dramatic..
Download full-size ISO800 & ISO1600 shots of the "Indoor Portrait without flash" from imaging resource and decide yourself:http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S3IS/S3ISA7.HTMhttp://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S6000/S6000A7.HTM.
Michael Schenker(guitar player from the rock band UFO) at a smallclub,and was never more than 3 feet away from him, with no flashallowed, and I had my Fuji Finepix A340, and was sooo frustratedthat I wasn't able to get any good shots. I got a few keepers, butI do realize that is a cheap camera, only good for general use withperfect conditions. I came home, and told myself that can't happenagain..
Try to use camera in aperture priority mode (select max. wide aperture). Use manual focus mode and pre-focus by one-push focus button. That way shutter delay will be minimized. Set ISO to ISO400 or 800 and if possible select white balance manually too. (Your current camera won't be able to do so for sure.)Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
Ajay0612 wrote:.
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Would I be able to immediately see the difference if same shot wastaken with both cameras, and put in front of me? The way the S6000is praised in many reviews, the difference "sounds" dramatic..
Download full-size ISO800 & ISO1600 shots of the "Indoor Portraitwithout flash" from imaging resource and decide yourself:http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S3IS/S3ISA7.HTMhttp://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S6000/S6000A7.HTM.
Michael Schenker(guitar player from the rock band UFO) at a smallclub,and was never more than 3 feet away from him, with no flashallowed, and I had my Fuji Finepix A340, and was sooo frustratedthat I wasn't able to get any good shots. I got a few keepers, butI do realize that is a cheap camera, only good for general use withperfect conditions. I came home, and told myself that can't happenagain..
Try to use camera in aperture priority mode (select max. wideaperture). Use manual focus mode and pre-focus by one-push focusbutton. That way shutter delay will be minimized. Set ISO to ISO400or 800 and if possible select white balance manually too..
Is it safe to assume you're referring to the S6000? And, thanks!.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
Both! (I link is of S3IS, second one is of S6000fd)http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S3IS/S3ISA7.HTMhttp://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S6000/S6000A7.HTM.
Is it safe to assume you're referring to the S6000? And, thanks!.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
OK. You might be referring to "winner". For me it is S3IS for more zoom, I.S., nice movie mode, compactness..
Ajay0612 wrote:.
Both! (I link is of S3IS, second one is of S6000fd)http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S3IS/S3ISA7.HTMhttp://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S6000/S6000A7.HTM.
Is it safe to assume you're referring to the S6000? And, thanks!.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
Ajay0612 wrote:.
OK. You might be referring to "winner". For me it is S3IS for morezoom, I.S., nice movie mode, compactness..
Ajay0612 wrote:.
Both! (I link is of S3IS, second one is of S6000fd)http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S3IS/S3ISA7.HTMhttp://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S6000/S6000A7.HTM.
I went there, and did the comparison, and, to me, the S6000 looks like it has a sharper picture......not a huge difference, like you said, but when you get to say ISO 800, it's a lot less grainy from the S6000. That's what I saw. Maybe I'll go through them again. I am definitely torn between the 2 cameras though ahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!! lol. Thanks for those links though. Thanks to everyone for helping me with this info..
Is it safe to assume you're referring to the S6000? And, thanks!.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
Few more point to help you decide:.
1. Fuji's lens is a stop slower at full tele-photo than Canon's (Look for max aperture at tele-photo for both. Remember Canon's aperture will be larger than that value at 300mm equi focal length). So at 300mm equi. focal length, whatever you can do with Canon at ISO400, S6000 can do that only at ISO800 if shutter speed is to remain same. So compare ISO400/800 of Canon with ISO800/1600 of Fuji..
2. Canon has swivel LCD, so you can shoot with camera in your LAP without attracting too much attention from others. That LCD is helpful in Macro Photography too..
3. I.S. is akin to virtual tripod (helpful in those waterfall shots, night cityscapes, musiums, churches etc.). Don't underestimate it..
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Ajay0612 wrote:.
OK. You might be referring to "winner". For me it is S3IS for morezoom, I.S., nice movie mode, compactness..
Ajay0612 wrote:.
Both! (I link is of S3IS, second one is of S6000fd)http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S3IS/S3ISA7.HTMhttp://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S6000/S6000A7.HTM.
I went there, and did the comparison, and, to me, the S6000 lookslike it has a sharper picture......not a huge difference, like yousaid, but when you get to say ISO 800, it's a lot less grainy fromthe S6000. That's what I saw. Maybe I'll go through them again. Iam definitely torn between the 2 cameras though ahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!lol. Thanks for those links though. Thanks to everyone for helpingme with this info..
Is it safe to assume you're referring to the S6000? And, thanks!.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
Ajay0612 wrote:.
Few more point to help you decide:1. Fuji's lens is a stop slower at full tele-photo than Canon's(Look for max aperture at tele-photo for both. Remember Canon'saperture will be larger than that value at 300mm equi focallength). So at 300mm equi. focal length, whatever you can do withCanon at ISO400, S6000 can do that only at ISO800 if shutter speedis to remain same. So compare ISO400/800 of Canon with ISO800/1600of Fuji.2.
That LCD ishelpful in Macro Photography too.3. I.S. is akin to virtual tripod (helpful in those waterfallshots, night cityscapes, musiums, churches etc.). Don'tunderestimate it..
O.k. I'll check that out.....thanks. It seems the S6000 would still be better for low light/light action shots.........like at concerts, would you agree or disagree? The masses seem to agree that the S6000 would do better in that respect. Thanks!.
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Ajay0612 wrote:.
OK. You might be referring to "winner". For me it is S3IS for morezoom, I.S., nice movie mode, compactness..
Ajay0612 wrote:.
Both! (I link is of S3IS, second one is of S6000fd)http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S3IS/S3ISA7.HTMhttp://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/S6000/S6000A7.HTM.
I went there, and did the comparison, and, to me, the S6000 lookslike it has a sharper picture......not a huge difference, like yousaid, but when you get to say ISO 800, it's a lot less grainy fromthe S6000. That's what I saw. Maybe I'll go through them again. Iam definitely torn between the 2 cameras though ahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!lol. Thanks for those links though. Thanks to everyone for helpingme with this info..
Is it safe to assume you're referring to the S6000? And, thanks!.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612.
Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
No way. I have a tough time w/ imaging resource's ISO tests. When I look at them, I see a well-exposed field of objects shot at different ISO's..
Try three 60W incadescent light bulbs for a 10x20 room at ISO 400 and ISO 800 and you can see what it is like in real-life conditions. The S3 gets very noisy even at 400 IMO. I've never found 800 to be usable....
Well, that is under low-light situations when I need it. Honestly, I've never once tried shooting ISO 800 in bright daylight (sunny 16 daylight), but I am fairly certain the results would be MUCH MORE favorable than in real-world low-light shooting at ISO 800. Go figure..
Sorry, my D80 is in for repair at Nikon (for over two weeks now! Geeeez) Otherwise, maybe I could do an ISO test to show you a comparison w/ the S3 IS. I might be able to shoot some low-light ISO stuff a bit later tonite if I get some more work done....
Yes, the Fuji sensor should be remarkably better in low-light, high ISO shooting compared to the S3. YOU WILL NOTICE the difference IMHO. But if this is only one factor involved in your purchase, I still love my S3 for what it is and can easily recommend it..
But if one of your primary concerns is low-light (high ISO) shooting. Well, I'd say the choice is prolly made for you- Fuji. Everything I read about their sensors and camera reviews is evidence they've got those categories nailed down..
Menus? Well, each to their own. But I'd really expect that once you familiarize yourself w/ it, you'll be fine. Hey, the Fuji S5 pro dSLR has a Nikon D200 body but has a re-vamped menu system that SUCKS compared to the easy Nikon menu system. In fact, it is a concern enough to me to ask many that own the S5 (I'm planning on getting one soon?). They all say it pretty much sucks. But you learn it and pretty much forget it... Pretty much...Cheers.Davidmy flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/prodesma/..
Prodesma wrote:.
No way. I have a tough time w/ imaging resource's ISO tests. WhenI look at them, I see a well-exposed field of objects shot atdifferent ISO's..
Try three 60W incadescent light bulbs for a 10x20 room at ISO 400and ISO 800 and you can see what it is like in real-lifeconditions. The S3 gets very noisy even at 400 IMO. I've neverfound 800 to be usable....
Well, that is under low-light situations when I need it. Honestly,I've never once tried shooting ISO 800 in bright daylight (sunny 16daylight), but I am fairly certain the results would be MUCH MOREfavorable than in real-world low-light shooting at ISO 800. Gofigure..
Sorry, my D80 is in for repair at Nikon (for over two weeks now!Geeeez) Otherwise, maybe I could do an ISO test to show you acomparison w/ the S3 IS. I might be able to shoot some low-lightISO stuff a bit later tonite if I get some more work done....
Yes, the Fuji sensor should be remarkably better in low-light, highISO shooting compared to the S3. YOU WILL NOTICE the differenceIMHO. But if this is only one factor involved in your purchase, Istill love my S3 for what it is and can easily recommend it..
That's the part that makes my decision hard.......... it seems like almost a unanimous decision that the Fuji would perform considerably better at concerts in low light conditions, and that is important to me, especially If I'm seeing one of my favorite guitar players/band, and I'm right up front(like recently), so yes, that is only one factor, but it is probably the most important. I doubt I would get crappy pictures from the S3 in low light conditions, but whether or not I'd be satisfied is the part I don't know. If I knew the pictures from the S3 would be "good enough", I would buy that camera right now for all the other factors that my decision would be based on.It's smaller, has IS, iIlike the rotating LCD, SD memory, etc. My wife does have a Fuji S7000, but that is hers. I want my own camera to take to shows.
I appreciate your input, and everyone that has posted..
But if one of your primary concerns is low-light (high ISO)shooting. Well, I'd say the choice is prolly made for you- Fuji.Everything I read about their sensors and camera reviews isevidence they've got those categories nailed down..
Menus? Well, each to their own. But I'd really expect that onceyou familiarize yourself w/ it, you'll be fine. Hey, the Fuji S5pro dSLR has a Nikon D200 body but has a re-vamped menu system thatSUCKS compared to the easy Nikon menu system. In fact, it is aconcern enough to me to ask many that own the S5 (I'm planning ongetting one soon?). They all say it pretty much sucks. But youlearn it and pretty much forget it... Pretty much...Cheers.Davidmy flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/prodesma/..
Prodesma......let me also add that I don't go to concerts every week......maybe a half dozen a year, but that is a big thing to me.......taking pictures of band members, but it's not real often...........makes consideration of the S3 still a likely choice...
The problem with S6000 is that you have to go to ISO800 at telephoto end (300 mm) when S3 will do ISO100 (because of faster lens and OIS). To freeze motion you need 1/60 s for moderate movement in the scene. What if the light is for 1/20 s, f/2.8 and ISO800?.
Usually in a normal lit room you have 1/15 s, f/2.8 and ISO100. In dim lit room you have like 1/5 s, f/2.8 and ISO800.VictorBucuresti, Romaniahttp://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m268/victor_petcu/..
Yesterday I was all set to buy the S3. I have had a Sony for 6 years or so and never strayed off of iso100..
But then I looked at the images at:.
Http://www.imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP/COMPS01.HTM.
This is a page that allows you to compare the two cameras side by side. You choose one camera then the other for comparison. Look especially at the still lifes and most especially at the still lifes at iso 100 for each camera. Check out the salt and pepper shakers. The handles on top of them and the details of the peppercorns in the pepper shaker and even the salt grains in the salt shaker. Even at iso100 the Fuji wins hands down for sharpness.
Seems to me that if you are into photography in a big way and really want good shots and lots of flexibility....AND you don't get a faulty camera...the Fuji will answer almost every desire, at this level. But it's not as "user friendly" as the Canon from what I can determine, reading the reviews. And it's big. But I keep asking myself..."No, I don't want to fool around with obscure menus and hard to use focus rings, a big clumsey irregularly shaped object, but what do we buy cameras for? Convenience or results?".
This is a hard decision, made harder by the fact that until 30 June the Fuji has a $50.00 rebate...
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
O.k. I'll check that out.....thanks. It seems the S6000 would stillbe better for low light/light action shots.........like atconcerts, would you agree or disagree? The masses seem to agreethat the S6000 would do better in that respect. Thanks!.
Better but not by wide margin. If you like concert pics and want to buy a camera for that, then buy a DSLR, maybe K110D ($388 on amazon) or second hand 350D. Else S6000fd. For all around application, S3IS.Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..
DWFII wrote:.
Yesterday I was all set to buy the S3. I have had a Sony for 6years or so and never strayed off of iso100..
But then I looked at the images at:.
Http://www.imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP/COMPS01.HTM.
This is a page that allows you to compare the two cameras side byside. You choose one camera then the other for comparison. Lookespecially at the still lifes and most especially at the stilllifes at iso 100 for each camera. Check out the salt and peppershakers. The handles on top of them and the details of thepeppercorns in the pepper shaker and even the salt grains in thesalt shaker. Even at iso100 the Fuji wins hands down for sharpness.The Canon is "soft." Of course once above iso 100 the Fuji leavesthe Canon in the dust but we all knew that..
Seems to me that if you are into photography in a big way andreally want good shots and lots of flexibility....AND you don't geta faulty camera...the Fuji will answer almost every desire, at thislevel. But it's not as "user friendly" as the Canon from what I candetermine, reading the reviews. And it's big. But I keep askingmyself..."No, I don't want to fool around with obscure menus andhard to use focus rings, a big clumsey irregularly shaped object,but what do we buy cameras for? Convenience or results?".
This is a hard decision, made harder by the fact that until 30 Junethe Fuji has a $50.00 rebate..
I wouldn't say I'm into photography in a big way at all, but I am kind of a perfectionist......within reason. When I do something, I try to do it right, and I like taking pictures quite a bit, but especiallt at concerts,and it sounds like the Fuji is definitely the way to go for this, and it will meet all my other needs also. The rebate makes it tougher yes, but then it will help offset the expensive XD memory...
Baloo_buc wrote:.
The problem with S6000 is that you have to go to ISO800 attelephoto end (300 mm) when S3 will do ISO100 (because of fasterlens and OIS). To freeze motion you need 1/60 s for moderatemovement in the scene. What if the light is for 1/20 s, f/2.8 andISO800?Usually in a normal lit room you have 1/15 s, f/2.8 and ISO100. Indim lit room you have like 1/5 s, f/2.8 and ISO800.VictorBucuresti, Romaniahttp://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m268/victor_petcu/.
This is all foreign language to me, but thanks for your input!..
Hmmm, baloo_buc has a good point here. I dint know the Fuji is f/4.9 on the telephoto end (long zoom). (is this right? ... looking at the dpreview review)?.
So, from the Canon S3 IS f/3.5 to Fuji's f/4.9 is basically ONE full stop. That means TWICE the amount of light is getting through to the Canon sensor in the same conditions..
Also, Image Stabilization is described as 2-3 stops in improvement when handheld. I'd say about 2.5 stops from personal experience, 3 stops is generous unless you're very shaky (IMHO)..
Okay, let's sort this out..
Canon: 1/15 sec @ ISO 400 @ 432mm f/3.5 using "IS" (3.5 stops faster/better).
Fuji: 1/3 /photos/prodesma/..
I have the S9100, which is a noisier sensor than the S6500 and the same lens. I have never had to shoot at ISO 800 at the long end of the zoom. I keep it on ISO 80 ( thats the lowest setting ) or occasionally 100 and use the long end of the zoom. It takes fine shots at those settings. I only move off ISO 80 when indoors or in low-light settings..
A second point. IS does NOT freeze action. To freeze action you crank up shutter speed. You MAY need to crank up ISO to allow this, but ISO 800 is over the top. What IS does is to allow a slower shutter speed, which, of course would blur moving objects in the shot..
The S6500 sensor is well over a stop better than the S3's. Have a look at some ISO tests in reviews to check this. ISO 800 and 1600 are both usable, which is more than any other camera in the same class..
StephenG.
Fuji S9600Fuji S5200Fuji F30Fuji E900Canon A710ISPCLinuxOS..
A question...How often would an average user access ISO's higher than 100? Higher than 200? What kind of photos need these higher setting? I know that they apply to low light but what I am getting at is outside of "Art" shots how often do we want or need to shoot low light? Such that we might want ISO 200 or 400 or even 800?..
DWFII wrote:.
A question...How often would an average user access ISO's higherthan 100? Higher than 200? What kind of photos need these highersetting? I know that they apply to low light but what I am gettingat is outside of "Art" shots how often do we want or need to shootlow light? Such that we might want ISO 200 or 400 or even 800?.
Well, I would at concerts.......and that is my main concern in choosing a camera. The S6000 and the S3 would both probably do just fine for general picture taking, but when I go to a concert, and am sitting front row for one of my favorite bands, and taking pictures, I want them to come out good. Don't go to that many concerts, but when I do, I want good pictures...
Reason I ask is because it seems very few cameras and very few manufacturers assign any degree of importance to iso's higher than 100. Point of fact, I have had a Sony digital for five six years nowit was highly recommended right here on dpreview at the time I bought itand in all that time I don't think I've ever taken it out of iso 100. The one time I tried for a low light shot was in Curacao several years ago and I go several pretty decent night shots of the harbour in Wilhelmstead. Just used the "night" setting. It was grainy on the computer but very acceptable in a 6x4 print..
On the other hand, having the capability to shoot in low light doesn't detract from the camera even if you never use it, and if the comparisons I posted above are any indication the more sensitive sensor seems to help even at lower iso's...
DWFII wrote:.
Reason I ask is because it seems very few cameras and very fewmanufacturers assign any degree of importance to iso's higher than100. Point of fact, I have had a Sony digital for five six yearsnowit was highly recommended right here on dpreview at the time Ibought itand in all that time I don't think I've ever taken itout of iso 100. The one time I tried for a low light shot was inCuracao several years ago and I go several pretty decent nightshots of the harbour in Wilhelmstead. Just used the "night"setting. It was grainy on the computer but very acceptable in a 6x4print..
On the other hand, having the capability to shoot in low lightdoesn't detract from the camera even if you never use it, and ifthe comparisons I posted above are any indication the moresensitive sensor seems to help even at lower iso's..
Good point.......thanks!..
Sjgcit wrote:.
I have never had to shoot at ISO 800 at the long end ofthe zoom. I keep it on ISO 80 ( thats the lowest setting ) oroccasionally 100 and use the long end of the zoom. It takes fineshots at those settings. I only move off ISO 80 when indoors or inlow-light settings..
All I can say is your shooting needs are clearly DIFFERENT that the OP. Obviously..
A second point. IS does NOT freeze action. To freeze action youcrank up shutter speed. You MAY need to crank up ISO to allowthis, but ISO 800 is over the top. What IS does is to allow aslower shutter speed, which, of course would blur moving objects inthe shot..
Obviously I realize IS doesn't freeze action. Whilest cranking up ISO for a dragged shutter is the point, you also have to realize that it will reduce camera shake on the long end (reciprocity of the lens, if you must). It helps both ways IMHO..
The S6500 sensor is well over a stop better than the S3's. Have alook at some ISO tests in reviews to check this. ISO 800 and 1600are both usable, which is more than any other camera in the sameclass..
Wow, this whole post seems pretty argumentative in tone to me. Considering a) the OP's priority for low-light, b) my recommending the Fuji over the Canon, c) we're in agreement the Fuji sensor is better in low-light and higher ISO... If one were to read my input to this thread, I think one would likely glean the fact that I've actually suggested the Fuji over the Canon. So why such defensiveness?.
I was planning to set up a high ISO test in a few minutes w/ my S3. It seems I might've touched a nerve w/ a few Fuji owners. Shame, because I was certainly not intending to do that. Also, a shame that they seem to be responding w/o actually reading this thread and the OP. You clearly stated what your interest for this camera is, and that includes low-light for concerts..
Considering I've touched a nerve... This is where I start not spending time/energy... When it becomes something: argumentative, OT from the OP, and a test of wills. Okay, I'll leave this alone and not follow the thread anymore. I'm not here to 'argue' I thought I was contributing by introducing some of my experiences as a S3 owner for 16 months now... I'm done..
Cheers.Davidmy flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/prodesma/..
Prodesma wrote:.
Sjgcit wrote:.
I have never had to shoot at ISO 800 at the long end ofthe zoom. I keep it on ISO 80 ( thats the lowest setting ) oroccasionally 100 and use the long end of the zoom. It takes fineshots at those settings. I only move off ISO 80 when indoors or inlow-light settings..
All I can say is your shooting needs are clearly DIFFERENT that theOP. Obviously..
A second point. IS does NOT freeze action. To freeze action youcrank up shutter speed. You MAY need to crank up ISO to allowthis, but ISO 800 is over the top. What IS does is to allow aslower shutter speed, which, of course would blur moving objects inthe shot..
Obviously I realize IS doesn't freeze action. Whilest cranking upISO for a dragged shutter is the point, you also have to realizethat it will reduce camera shake on the long end (reciprocity ofthe lens, if you must). It helps both ways IMHO..
The S6500 sensor is well over a stop better than the S3's. Have alook at some ISO tests in reviews to check this. ISO 800 and 1600are both usable, which is more than any other camera in the sameclass..
Wow, this whole post seems pretty argumentative in tone to me.Considering a) the OP's priority for low-light, b) my recommendingthe Fuji over the Canon, c) we're in agreement the Fuji sensor isbetter in low-light and higher ISO... If one were to read my inputto this thread, I think one would likely glean the fact that I'veactually suggested the Fuji over the Canon. So why suchdefensiveness?.
I was planning to set up a high ISO test in a few minutes w/ my S3.It seems I might've touched a nerve w/ a few Fuji owners. Shame,because I was certainly not intending to do that. Also, a shamethat they seem to be responding w/o actually reading this threadand the OP. You clearly stated what your interest for this camerais, and that includes low-light for concerts..
Considering I've touched a nerve... This is where I start notspending time/energy... When it becomes something: argumentative,OT from the OP, and a test of wills. Okay, I'll leave this aloneand not follow the thread anymore. I'm not here to 'argue' Ithought I was contributing by introducing some of my experiences asa S3 owner for 16 months now... I'm done..
Cheers.Davidmy flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/prodesma/.
Well,I started the thread, and you've been very informative to me, if that makes you feel any better. I was looking for advice/opinions, and I got both. Sorry someone got you feeling uneasy...
If I've upset a poster with my response - sorry. The aim was to correct what I regarded as a potentially misleading post. It's unrealistic to expect to post to forums without getting any critical responses - it goes with the process..
Back to business..
Traditionally high ISO is not used simply because it gets too noisy - ISO 400 is considered the start of high ISO territory..
Camera designers are guilty of a disservice to people for marketing and even designing cameras to use high ISO routinely. I cannot think of any small sensor camera, including the F30/31 and S6500, which should routinely be used above ISO 400. Most should not venture above 200. While the sensors are improving it would be nice if they waited until they had improved before selling cameras on that basis..
As a general guide I would say ISO 400 and above are emergencies only and not to expect anything more than a small print at best. You might get better, but don't expect it..
StephenG.
Fuji S9600Fuji S5200Fuji F30Fuji E900Canon A710ISPCLinuxOS..
Well, I ordered the S6000.........$265.00 after the rebate. Hope I don't regret not getting the F31, because of it's small size, and what quite a few people are saying has a little better picture quality...
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Well, I ordered the S6000.........$265.00 after the rebate. Hope Idon't regret not getting the F31, because of it's small size, andwhat quite a few people are saying has a little better picturequality..
I did too...last Friday..
I looked at this camera compared to other cameras at several sites here and abroad...even dslr's (not that I could afford a dslr) and compared output and IQ. I don't think I've ever obsessed about and researched a product so thoroughly ever before. And all I got to say is that if I don't get a lemon and if I can get up to speed relatively quickly (I'm reading everything I can) I think I'm going to be very happy with the Fuji S6000...
DWFII wrote:.
Metalliholic07 wrote:.
Well, I ordered the S6000.........$265.00 after the rebate. Hope Idon't regret not getting the F31, because of it's small size, andwhat quite a few people are saying has a little better picturequality..
I did too...last Friday..
I looked at this camera compared to other cameras at several siteshere and abroad...even dslr's (not that I could afford a dslr) andcompared output and IQ. I don't think I've ever obsessed about andresearched a product so thoroughly ever before. And all I got to sayis that if I don't get a lemon and if I can get up to speedrelatively quickly (I'm reading everything I can) I think I'm goingto be very happy with the Fuji S6000..
I feel the same way......not positive the size won't concern me, but if it takes good pictures, no big deal...
DWFII wrote:.
Yesterday I was all set to buy the S3. I have had a Sony for 6 yearsor so and never strayed off of iso100..
But then I looked at the images at:.
Http://www.imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP/COMPS01.HTM.
This is a page that allows you to compare the two cameras side byside. You choose one camera then the other for comparison. Lookespecially at the still lifes and most especially at the still lifesat iso 100 for each camera. Check out the salt and pepper shakers.The handles on top of them and the details of the peppercorns in thepepper shaker and even the salt grains in the salt shaker. Even atiso100 the Fuji wins hands down for sharpness. The Canon is "soft."Of course once above iso 100 the Fuji leaves the Canon in the dustbut we all knew that..
Seems to me that if you are into photography in a big way and reallywant good shots and lots of flexibility....AND you don't get a faultycamera...the Fuji will answer almost every desire, at this level. Butit's not as "user friendly" as the Canon from what I can determine,reading the reviews. And it's big. But I keep asking myself..."No, Idon't want to fool around with obscure menus and hard to use focusrings, a big clumsey irregularly shaped object, but what do we buycameras for? Convenience or results?".
This is a hard decision, made harder by the fact that until 30 Junethe Fuji has a $50.00 rebate..
Http://www.imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP/COMPS01.HTM.
I have one observation to say..
I did side by side comparation with pictures of musician's poster of canon I3 and Fuji s6000fd. These are the SAME PICTURES!.
Look in girls eyes, lips, fingers these are the same pictures, only one is modified with some picture editor. Same observation you can make with the picture of house poster. Look at the branches and leefs. All details are the same!.
These are the same pictures. Every photographer knows you can't take identical pictures with two cameras even if you shot one afther the other..
I wish I am wrong. If you can find some detalis diferent let me know or I wasted hours and hours analising cameras posebilites!Thank you...