Svetla wrote:.

Hi, I am thinking of taking some photography lessons and would liketo buy a good camera, just not sure what. brand. I am willing tospend some more $$$I am thinking between Panasonic FZ50 NikonD40.......something with manual adjusting of the zoom......just notsure what to buy. Ihave always been interested in photography, butnow I am rady to take it to the next level and make it my hobby andsomething more. So please advise me which camera do you think willgive me run for my money. best regards and thanks to everyone inadvance.



First ask yourself, why do you want "manual adjusting of zoom"..

I'm a photojournalist and shoot tons with a Canon 20D SLR, and manual focus nearly never comes into play. One, for small sensor cameras, manual focussing doesn't make much of a difference because there isn't a shallow depth of field - everything is in focus more or less, no matter what. For DSLRs with larger sensors, focusing does make a difference, but it's nearly impossible to manual focus through the smaller viewfinders of APS-C SLRs (like the D40)..

You only ever want to manually focus when for some reason your autofocus doesn't work right. AF is faster and more accurate than MF is..

There are a lot of "good cameras" out there, but your starting point shouldn't be what features you want, but rather, want kind of photography you want to do. Start there, and then build on finding out what features will help you accomplish your kind of photography, and then which cameras have those features..

Also, if you're serious about learning photography, and since it seems like you're going after shallow depth of field and out-of-focus bokeh with your desire to manually focus, I would avoid the D40. The D40 (and D40x) doesn't have an autofocus motor, meaning that it won't AF with Nikon's prime lenses, which are exactly the kind of lenses which produce bokeh and shallow depth of field..

Nathan Yan wrote:.

First ask yourself, why do you want "manual adjusting of zoom"..

On most P&S cameras, zoom is a "fly by wire" thing you push a switch or rocker, and the camera operates a motor to change the focal length. On SLRs (35mm or digital), you mechanically control the zoom, either by twisting a ring or by pushing part of the lens frontwards and backwards...

Tom_N wrote:.

Nathan Yan wrote:.

First ask yourself, why do you want "manual adjusting of zoom"..

On most P&S cameras, zoom is a "fly by wire" thing you push aswitch or rocker, and the camera operates a motor to change the focallength. On SLRs (35mm or digital), you mechanically control thezoom, either by twisting a ring or by pushing part of the lensfrontwards and backwards..

Yes, that's the difference between how AF and MF operate. The question I posed to the original poster is: what do you want to do with manual focus that autofocus doesn't do?.

Also, a bit of important semantics: the focal length doesn't change (focal length is the "zoom" more or less") - the focus distance does...

The Samsung Pro 815 has manual zoom. Manual zoom is much more pleasant to use than the usual electric zooms found on P&S cameras, which takes a long time to get there, make a lot of noise doing it, and usually stop somewhere you didn't want them to be. It was really something I missed when I went to digital P&S from film SLR. It really is worth going to DSLR to avoid electric zoom!.

Also, the viewfinders of P&S cameras (including some that only have an LCD) are FAR inferior to the "through the lens view of even the most basic entry-level SLR/DSLR. On a bright day in full sun the LCD (and EVF) become illegible. Fortunatley some P&Ss still retain an optical viewfinder for use these occasions..

In general, unless doing "art" or "boutique" photography, the AutoFocus is more convenient than manual..

By the time the average P&S does it's thing, the shot is long gone -kids & people-(unless posed)..

The Panasonic MZ50 is a nice looking camera with many features. Unfortunately, it has an EVF and a reputation for being "noisy". You'd be much better off with the Nikon D40, in the long run. At least the D40 has a bigger sensor (less noise & less shutter lag) and you have the option of manual zoom and auto or manual focus, plus a choice of lenses further down the track...

As many people here have already said, to really choose a good camera, decide what do you want to shoot first..

This decision is less irreversible with dSLRs (like Nikon D series ), since you can change lens, but still pretty important, - some lenses cost MORE than cameras, and even cheap ones aren't exsactly free..

If you aren't sure, do it my way. buy any inexpensive digital compact. (not a throwaway camera, but something with "real" lens.) After a thousand or two shots you'd get pretty good idea of what you really want.....

Ihave always been interested in photography, butnow I am rady to take it to the next level and make it my hobby andsomething more. So please advise me which camera do you think willgive me run for my money. best regards and thanks to everyone inadvance. Svetla.

If you want to get ino photography as a 'hobby and something more', i.e. you are serious about it, you should get one of the entry-level DSLRs (Nikon D40, Pentax K100D, Olympus E400, Canon 400d). All are excellent and all have their supporters. There are three important reasons to get one of these:.

1. They will produce much higher quality images than you get on a compact, especially in low light conditions..

2. They allow for much more manual control from the user so you can experiment with different settings. You can always set them to fully automatic and use them like a point-and-shoot camera, but one of the joys of photopgraphy is leaving 'fully auto' behind and learning how to get the camera to do what YOU want it to do, to get the effect you want..

3. There are far more accessories avaialble, like interchangeable lenses, external flash units, filters....

Entry-level DSLRs are now very good and very cheap compared to a year or two ago, and there are lot of good value 'bundles' available (e.g. camera body plus standard zoom lens and telephoto is a common combination, for around 400 UK). Do not worry too much about the technical differences between Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Olympus etc - go to a shop and pick them up and see which feels most comfortable in your hand, this is more important. Whichever one feels most comfortable is the one to get and you can be confident that it is technically fine..

When you start you can leave the camera on fully automatic... but when you have had some lessons about what the controls mean, and how to balance shutter speed / aperture / ISO, and how to compose pictures well... you will be off into a fascinating hobby and will enjoy the possibilites of your camera to the full..

Mike..

DSLRs are heavy (obvious) and expensive (risk to lose lots of money in case of accident/theft). Something that may rule out travel photography with one, unless it's price is either no big deal, or acidents just do not happen with you, or you travel specially to take photos..

WelL I'd have my doubts carrying G7 or something like that around all the time, let alone $1000 kit...

DSLRs are heavy (obvious) and expensive (risk to lose lots of moneyin case of accident/theft)..

So are lots of things. Do you never take your car out of the garage in case somebody steals it? There are plenty of good camera bags (e.g. Lowepro) that look just like small backpacks and are discreet..

Something that may rule out travelphotography with one, unless it's price is either no big deal, oracidents just do not happen with you, or you travel specially to takephotos..

WelL I'd have my doubts carrying G7 or something like that around allthe time, let alone $1000 kit..

Getting a cheap / poor camera so that it doesn't matter if it gets lost or stolen is a very odd way to approach photography.Ever heard of travel insurance?.

Mike..

The zoom and focus aren't the same. On most other non dslr cameras you adjust the focal length with a button not on lens. The OP was correct that the FZ50 is different than most cameras in that class.terryhttp://tbanet.zenfolio.com/..

Well, actually it's worse, I dont have drivers license because I can crash into things. Much more readily than people not having that particular medical condition.  And no, it's not psych thing..

Everybody's situation is different. So are things that are or aren't risky..

Well, back to fun topics.....

Thanks Mike,.

I think I will do what you told me...just pick out 2-3 models and basically just go to a store ,take a look at them and maybe then buy them online ....Thanks a lot.Svetla..

Nathan Yan wrote:.

Yes, that's the difference between how AF and MF operate. Thequestion I posed to the original poster is: what do you want to dowith manual focus that autofocus doesn't do?.

The original poster referred to a ZOOM control. You referred to FOCUS types (AF, MF). These are different types of controls..

Also, a bit of important semantics: the focal length doesn't change(focal length is the "zoom" more or less") - the focus distance does..

The effective focal length of a zoom lens changes as you adjust the ZOOM control. If it did not, then descriptions such as 18-55 mm would be false advertising...

Tom_N wrote:.

Nathan Yan wrote:.

Yes, that's the difference between how AF and MF operate. Thequestion I posed to the original poster is: what do you want to dowith manual focus that autofocus doesn't do?.

The original poster referred to a ZOOM control. You referred toFOCUS types (AF, MF). These are different types of controls..

Also, a bit of important semantics: the focal length doesn't change(focal length is the "zoom" more or less") - the focus distance does..

The effective focal length of a zoom lens changes as you adjust theZOOM control. If it did not, then descriptions such as 18-55 mmwould be false advertising..

Wow, a big blunder on my part. For some reason I read the OP's post as wanting "manual adjustment of focus"..

OK,lets say I will be shooting mainly nature and people.....what camera would you recommend?Can you give me couple of models soI can research and compare?Thanks..

Nature... Well. If you have in mind something like shot 1 you need.

1) Wide angle I haven't used it here, but if there werent trees to left and right I';d cwertainly would..

(How to tel if camera/lens are wide angle. Look at minimal zoom focal length. there should be something along the lines " x10/ -; 28 - 300 mm (35 mm equiv)" Lens with minimum range 28 or less is wideangle, extreme wideangles are called fisheyes, and aren't what we really need.... So, it should be 28-18 mm. ).

2)Ability to handle dramatic contrasts well (somethng you can judge only by eye). I had to Photoshop this one heavily to get back these shadows, sunlit trees and sky..

If shot 2 is your idea of "nature", - well, not all birds are so cooperative as this one. You need long zoom and stabilization. (using long lenses handheld without one produces err... underwhelming results.).

3 is a macro shot. Most cameras do it nowadays, but if you are serious about it you need dSLR (Nikon D, Canon EOS) and special lens..

If you need all three, you should look at superzoom ("bridge", "prosumer") cameras, or dSLR (any) and three good lenses. Why three? Because while we can make 28-300 lens for compact to be really much smaller, for dSLR it means exsactly that: lens really can extend to 1 foot and collapse into one inch, retaining it's optical qualities. Doesn't seem like something easily done, doesn't it?So, two lenses for the range+macro..

I'm not expert on SLR lenses, ask somebody else about recomendations..

As far as non-SLR cameras concerned, well, you seem to be willing to spend more than I do... I'm leanimng towards Fuji S6000fd (6500fd), but although it is nice, affordable jack-of-all-trades camera, you can get more if you wish to pay..

As for portraits, - Again, not something I did/thought much about..

But to me it seems that you need to pay attention to light and composition more than technical qualities of a camera here. If you like shallow focus that pretty much means dSLR, but otherwise well-lit shot by just OK compact camera would outperform poor-lit one made with $many equipment by such a wide margin, that, well, you need eye for light first, camera third..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

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Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window..

Ok, I have no wideangle, so it should read "I certainly wish I would". Nothing hot to the left, but to the right there were some shootworthy details...

Also, if you aren't talking about indoors shots, you would need to pay attention to camera's sensetivity (and quality of shots made wile in high-sensetivity modes) and ability to use external flash. Internal flashes give people red-eye and that ugly, flat look, while properly used external one just lights scene..

Any dSLR would have these. In non-dSLR world that restricts us to the same Fuji S-series...

Ablack wrote:.

Also, if you aren't talking about indoors shots.

I meant "you are" of course... Only one edit rule. ..