I was working on a limited budget and thus not looking at DSLR's..

The Pentax K100D is $480/280 so it's just as cheap as many superzooms..

Otherwise you have to choose between using 1. low ISO and an image stabiliser (no good when taking photos of moving things) or 2. flash or 3. using higher ISO..

The Canon S5IS is probably best for 1 and 2 and the Fuji 6500fd best for 3..

Androohttp://Androo.smugmug.com..

I would also suggest the Fuji 6500 for a slightly better higher ISO performance over the others. (If you're interested in how the Fuji 9100 (not the 6500) handles high ISO then click on the 'ISO Issues' sub-gallery in my 'Back to the Bridge Camera' link below..

However, I feel you would be much better served by an entry level DSLR; and it need not be a 'big' camera if you look at Olympus or the less-expensive.

Pentax. My thoughts are that you will continually be blaming the 'bridge camera' and utimately end up spending more money by getting a DSLR as well as the other camera!.

John.Please visit me at:http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/backtothebridgehttp://www.pbase.com/johnfr..

Andrew Butterfield wrote:.

I was working on a limited budget and thus not looking at DSLR's..

The Pentax K100D is $480/280 so it's just as cheap as manysuperzooms..

However the problem with entry level DSLRs is the kit lenses are often times slow, using f/5.6 at full telephoto (with f/6.3 on some of the superzoom lenses), and many of the kit lenses you have to stop down one stop to avoid softness. That kind of wipes out the ISO advantage DSLRs have over superzooms with f/2.8-4 lenses in terms of image quality. Where a DSLR wins is adding a fast lens to better high ISO range, but the OP isn't ready to take that step..

Otherwise you have to choose between using 1. low ISO and an imagestabiliser (no good when taking photos of moving things) or 2.flash or 3. using higher ISO..

Actually at high zoom an image stabalizer is still useful for moving objects in that it will let you take pictures at 1/125 or even 1/60 instead of having to take the picture at 1/500 to avoid camera shake..

The Canon S5IS is probably best for 1 and 2 and the Fuji 6500fdbest for 3..

I find most in camera noise reduction software to be a bit heavy handed. If the OP is willing to learn how to do it in post processing, he/she might consider getting a camera with RAW and come out with better pictures (cameras include Panasonic FZ8, Panasonic FZ50, Olympus SP-550UZ)...

As much as I love my Fuji S9100 and admire the S6500, they are not suitable if you are planning to shoot night and low light to the extent you indicate..

Any basic DSLR is a better bet. Someone did point out the kit lenses are not great, but I think the lack of sensor noise far outweighs this for you. It makes a up for a lot in your type of shooting..

You should look around image websites for images of night-time and low-light shooting on the S6500 and compare them against the basic DSLRs. The DCResource website reviews have a night-time shot comparison at various ISO with all cameras, so it's a useful resource for you to start with..

The argument has been rather over discussed, especially in the Fuji forum, but it comes down to this simple issue - money vs quality. If you can afford a basic DSLR get one - it will serve you better than the bridge in the long run. I choose a bridge camera because I do not shoot much low light and night-time work. If I did I would have gotten a DSLR. I can get reasonable results if I have to, but this is really DSLR territory..

With rebates on the Nikon D40 and some Canon's, the low price and IS of the K100D I think it's a great time to go DSLR..

If your budget is restricted the Fuji S6500 is the way to go - it's a very versatile tool. Note that if you need to use a cable release, the S9100 is the one to go for, as I don't think the S6500 supports them..

StephenG.

Fuji S9600Fuji S5200Fuji F30Fuji E900Canon A710ISPCLinuxOS..

Sjgcit wrote:.

As much as I love my Fuji S9100 and admire the S6500, they are notsuitable if you are planning to shoot night and low light to theextent you indicate..

Any basic DSLR is a better bet. Someone did point out the kitlenses are not great, but I think the lack of sensor noise faroutweighs this for you. It makes a up for a lot in your type ofshooting..

Another factor to consider is the other meaning of the word noise. The clacking of the DSLR shutter can ruin the mood in some settings, just like using a flash might...

Try the Fuji F30/F31fd and see how you get on. ISO 800 is very usable and even 1600 at a pinch if you're after fanily/friends at night..

Otherwise it's off to the cheap end of the DSLR market and give these a go. Beg or borrow one to try..

Andy..

I appreciate this response - I guess it will be a DSLR for me - either the Nikon D40X or the Canon rebel Xti..

Interesting reply - I will surely look at these cameras suggested - else I guess I will go in for a DSLR..

D40 is great camera but since the camera does not have an internal focusing motor, all your lenses must have that motor, which means you're pretty much stuck buying up the more expensive Nikon Glass. No real option of buyign quality thrid party lenses and saving yourself some money..

If you do decide to go with Nikon, which is a good camera sytem too. then get the D70 instead..

If you go with the Canon XTi, I would also recommend getting Gary Friedmans new book. Reall good primer for photograhy, in general, and the XTi , in particular.http://www.friedmanarchives.com/rebels/.

Dave PattersonMidwestshutterbug.com'When the light and composition are strong, nobodynotices things like resolution or pincushion distortion'Gary Friedman..

Abhay_bhargava wrote:.

Can anyone suggest what cameras suit this requirement of shootingplenty of pictures indoors, and also with some low light outdoors -like shooting with a background of skyscrapers in the night, whichI am never able to get good results for till date, or shooting innight safaris or in caves etc. !!!.

Will you be shooting static subjects (cityscapes, interiors) or the moving ones (people etc.)?.

1. For caves etc, no DSLR will be good enough without tripods, as at least a few seconds exposure will be required. So tripod is a must. Fuji S6000fd should be best prosumer for such tasks due to lower noise. Any DSLR will be good enough..

2. For moving ones (people etc.) you need good high ISO performance from camera. So Nikon D40/40x/Pentax K100D/Canon XT/XTi will be good. Among compacts, Fuji F31fd will be your best bet..

3. For general purpose low light, Pentax K100D (due to in-body I.S.) among SLR, Canon S3IS (same reason) among Prosumers, Canon A710IS/A570IS among compacts.Regards, Ajayhttp://picasaweb.google.com/ajay0612..