Best cam would be a DSLR and a fast focussing telezoom. However, that would easily set you back $1300 - $2500 so that may not be an option. Look into high end P&S such as that Fuji.Don't wait for the Nikon D-whatever, have fun now!http://www.flickr.com/photos/j_wijnands/..

While I won't suggest a specific camera I will give you some idea of my experiences. I photograph theatre ,sports, and also some studio work..

If the games are generally "day games" you can select just about any camera as long as it has fast reaction time. Many of the less expensive cameras have a significant lag from the time you press the button to the time it actaully takes the photo (called shutter lag or delay). For sports I have found that this lag will make you miss the critical moment that you are trying to capture..

If the games you are at night under lights then you have a whole new set of problems. Very few hand held flash will help add light at distanced greater than 60 feet. Flashes built onto the camera are generally only good for 30feet. So you need a camera that can take great low light photos of action..

As was already suggested a Digital SLR (DSLR) camera is your best bet here but they come with a higher price tag. The cheapest I have seen (new) would run about $450 just for the body and then you need to also buy a lens and accessories (and I don't know if that camera is any good)..

Unless you are trying to print pictures bigger and 8x10 inches you should not worry too much about megapixels anything over 4mp will be able to produce prints to 8x10. The things to look for are :.

Low Shutter lag/delay (<50ms)Good High ISO performance (with low noise)Shutter speeds faster than 1/200th..

I used Nikon camera for my film work, but switched over to using Canon when I went digital. Both companies have good cameras..

The camera you selected might work for you. I could not find any data on the shutter lag of the camera..

Jenn A wrote:.

Hi,My oldest son will be a senior this fall and major player on thevarsity football team.I want to caprture as much as possible hislast yearLast year I had a kodak z740 and I could not get a clear actionshot of him.I know I must not have been doing something right but I triedeverything I knew to try! I loved that camera for everythingelse,though. Anyway,that camera got *missing*,we never did find itso I am looking at buying a new one,namely the Panasonic LumixDM-CFZ50S.I want a camera that will last us a long while,I know it is on thepricey side but that is ok.Hub said I needed to keep it in a safethis time!I was also thinking about an Olympus,I can't remember the exactmodel but it was the 18x zoom,10 MP,I am 99% sure but the reviewwasn't that good for so much money.Thank you for any help and/or suggestions on any other cameras youcan give me on this.Hope you all have a wonderful day.Jenn A..

Thanks very much,I have been looking at the Nikon D40,too..

Jenn A..

The 18x zoom camera you were referring to is the Olympus SP-550 UZ, I believe, as I am unaware of any other digital camera with a built-in 18x zoom range..

Personally, I would not recommend a long-zoom compact camera for sports shooting, although it -might- be feasible if these are day games... if these are under Friday night lights, you'd be much better off using any DSLR..

The reasons fall into two general categories..

1- Overall responsiveness..

For action, in particular with a sport like football where the 'most interesting' point might not be obvious all that far in advance (anticipating the QB's choice of receiver, for instance), you need to be able to....

- identify subject / appropriate composition- focus on it- shoot (possibly a burst).

Before the situation changes..

Long-zoom fixed-lens cameras invariably use electronic viewfinders, which are limited in frame rate and show you what was happening... a moment ago. This can increase your effective reaction time..

Focusing also tends to be somewhat slower on most compact cameras, especially if there's low contrast (ex: low light...), again hurting effective reaction time. And while in some cases you may be have some warning, like focusing on the kicker while he's getting ready for a place kick, can you anticipate the receiver well enough to prefocus on him?.

Burst speed / length is also sometimes worse than that of low-level SLRs, although this has nothing to do with whether it's an SLR or not..

2. Image quality under bad conditions.

If you're shooting under lights, in particular, and you want to -stop motion-, this requires a short shutter speed. I've been using 1/400s in adult slow-pitch softball, for instance.

(example links goes to full 2560x1920 image.

Http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/...sOMxESkuGjKF8nVmn76f0QRDdfRQiNoD0A00.jpg.

Http://shutter02.pictures.aol.com/...WwrPp30LDQKrdTGbxwHG0Hehk5Ssst780A00.jpg).

Which can often freeze runners, but not a thrown softball..

1/400s is a fairly short duration, however. If you have a lot of light, this may be perfectly achievable without going crazy with high ISO sensitivity and wide-open aperture settings. In *bad* light, however, like 'outdoors evening under lights' you might be underexposing even shooting f/3.5 or f/4 and ISO 1600 sensitivity and very, very few compact cameras are going to give all that good an image at ISO 1600 and combine this with a fast long lens. The small sensors used to make ultrazoom design more portable work against them at high ISO sensitivities..

So if you're talking about daylight games, you might be able to get away with an ultrazoom IF you can anticipate the action and focus in advance, and adapt to any remaining shutter lag. If we're talking evening games under lights, this can be a bit taxing even with an SLR and a moderately fast lens...

Rodneyk wrote:.

While I won't suggest a specific camera I will give you some ideaof my experiences. I photograph theatre ,sports, and also somestudio work..

If the games are generally "day games" you can select just aboutany camera as long as it has fast reaction time. Many of the lessexpensive cameras have a significant lag from the time you pressthe button to the time it actaully takes the photo (called shutterlag or delay). For sports I have found that this lag will make youmiss the critical moment that you are trying to capture..

First off I want to say thank you very much for taking the time to help me out here.Games start around Aug/Sept and can last into Nov/Dec,so the games will be played both in the daylight and at night,under lights..

If the games you are at night under lights then you have a wholenew set of problems. Very few hand held flash will help add lightat distanced greater than 60 feet. Flashes built onto the cameraare generally only good for 30feet. So you need a camera that cantake great low light photos of action..

Got that noted  Thanks!.

As was already suggested a Digital SLR (DSLR) camera is your bestbet here but they come with a higher price tag. The cheapest I haveseen (new) would run about $450 just for the body and then you needto also buy a lens and accessories (and I don't know if that camerais any good)..

I want a good camera and I know that I will have to pay for it! I was going to go about $500 but it doesn't look like that's going to cut it.The Nikon D40 is pretty good priced.May I ask what you think of that one?If you don't want to go into it I totally understand..

Unless you are trying to print pictures bigger and 8x10 inches youshould not worry too much about megapixels anything over 4mp willbe able to produce prints to 8x10..

I won't be printing anything over 8x10..

The things to look for are :.

Low Shutter lag/delay (<50ms)Good High ISO performance (with low noise)Shutter speeds faster than 1/200th..

I used Nikon camera for my film work, but switched over to usingCanon when I went digital. Both companies have good cameras..

The camera you selected might work for you. I could not find anydata on the shutter lag of the camera..

Thanks for listing what to look for,that helps tremendously.It's funny you mention Canon,I was looking in the Canon camera list and was looking at the powershot S5 IS ans S3 IS..

Gosh,I tend to research something to death before I actually decide which one to buy.I drive myself crazy!I did this when I got the Kodak Z740,too..LOL....

Thanks agai SO much...

Wow,thank you so much..

I am going to go over your post more thoroughly when I get home (I am at work right now and have to get back to it!)My son is a reciever and a kicker!Thanks againJenn A..

Having used the very capable Fuji S9100 for a while, I am a huge fan, but fast action sports is not a strong point for bridge cameras like the S9100 or the Panasonic FZ50. The autofocus is too slow and they are have too much noise at ISO's above 400, so getting fast shutter speeds at the long end of the telephoto lens isn't easy..

If you can afford it, definitely go for a DSLR. The cheaper ones like the Nikon D40 and the Canon XTI will do a much better job of this and you can probably get the camera and an acceptable long zoom for under $1000. They only have 3fps burst mode, but to get anything with a faster burst mode you would have to spend another $300-400 on the Canon 30D which would give you 5 frames per second. A fast burst mode isn't always necessary though. I rarely use burst mode. I prefer to time the shot properly and get the image I want.

Sometimes with burst mode you miss the exact frame you were going for anyway..

In short, nothing copares to a DSLR for sports photography. If you can afford it, it's a much better investment in the long run simpy because you will have superior images to look back at in the years ahead..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.

Mike.

Http://www.liquidartgallery.com.

'Education's purpose is to replace an empty mind with an open one.' - malcolm forbes..

One more thing.

I, for one, would probably be very, very irritated if I were losing shots while waiting for a motorized lens to zoom in or out. If you're sufficiently far away that you're always shooting within a short range of focal lengths, this might not be an issue. If you're not, well.....

I have a D40 and love it. If I were you tho, I might try to find a D50 used or refurbished. You would be able to get a faster lens for it for those at night shots. I haven't tried the D40 with the kit lens in a night sports shot yet so can't tell you how it would work. I had a Sony H5 but the slow shutter, or lag time, whatever they call it, is what ultimately led me to a dslr. Nice pix on the H5, but I missed a ton of grandkid action shots with it..

Basically I'm a p&s grandma that wanted a camera that took a picture when I pressed the button and had great image quality. It really does take beautiful pictures. I've already decided for my birthday to get an SB 600 flash for it..

Becky..

Oh, and I gave $529 for my D40, on sale tho. Think it was $599 to start with. I also had to get a card for it, but everything else came with it..

Becky..

Thanks so much for the advise,Becky.I do not want to miss anything this year,especially since my *baby* will be graduating.He's the 2nd oldest of our 6 kids,so we'll be using it on plenty more after him!.

Jenn A..

Leejay Wu wrote:.

One more thing.

I, for one, would probably be very, very irritated if I were losingshots while waiting for a motorized lens to zoom in or out. Ifyou're sufficiently far away that you're always shooting within ashort range of focal lengths, this might not be an issue. Ifyou're not, well....

Yes I was VERY irritated last year when I kept losing shots and then they were really blurry.I still think I wasn't doing something right and could've fixed them..

I try to get as close to the field as possible.Jenn A..

Mmelgar wrote:.

Having used the very capable Fuji S9100 for a while, I am a hugefan, but fast action sports is not a strong point for bridgecameras like the S9100 or the Panasonic FZ50. The autofocus is tooslow and they are have too much noise at ISO's above 400, sogetting fast shutter speeds at the long end of the telephoto lensisn't easy..

If you can afford it, definitely go for a DSLR. The cheaper oneslike the Nikon D40 and the Canon XTI will do a much better job ofthis and you can probably get the camera and an acceptable longzoom for under $1000. They only have 3fps burst mode, but to getanything with a faster burst mode you would have to spend another$300-400 on the Canon 30D which would give you 5 frames per second.A fast burst mode isn't always necessary though. I rarely use burstmode. I prefer to time the shot properly and get the image I want.I think it's a holdover from all my droplet photography, but itworks for me. Sometimes with burst mode you miss the exact frameyou were going for anyway..

In short, nothing copares to a DSLR for sports photography. If youcan afford it, it's a much better investment in the long run simpybecause you will have superior images to look back at in the yearsahead..

Mike.

Http://www.liquidartgallery.com.

'Education's purpose is to replace an empty mind with an open one.'- malcolm forbes.

Thanks so much for great suggestions.I will start looking into the DSLR because we do have more children that are in sports..

Jenn A..

Almost any of the entyr dSLRs will be fine: for example the Nikon D40 (or 40x, that has 10Mp), Canon 400D, Pentax K110D (or K100D, that has antishake built in)..

The best advice is go to a camera store and handle all of them to see which you like the feel of the best..

They will come with a kit lens, which is usually pretty good. You may want to just shoot with that for a while to get familiar with the camera..

But for sports you will probably need a lens which [a] has a longer reach; and [b] is faster, especially for indoor sports - faster means that the maximum aperture (the f number) is as wide as possible to get as much light into the camera. This is because you're going to want to have a fast shutter speed (say at least 1/500 sec) to freeze sports action..

So the LOWER the f number the better, otherwise the shots will be too dark..

The only snag is, if you check out say Nikon's or Canon's telephoto lenses, with reach of 200mm or longer, the ones with the widest max aperture, e.g. Nikon's 70-200 f2.8 VR (that means vibration reduction), are expensive compared to the slower ones (i.e. with maximum apertures of say f3.5 or f4)..

That's the cross all of us have to bear... But for outdoor sports in good light a slower lens should be OK..

So bear in mind your budget for the lens..

Alex.

Http://akiralx.smugmug.com/..

Alex Leach wrote:.

Almost any of the entyr dSLRs will be fine: for example the NikonD40 (or 40x, that has 10Mp), Canon 400D, Pentax K110D (or K100D,that has antishake built in)..

The best advice is go to a camera store and handle all of them tosee which you like the feel of the best..

They will come with a kit lens, which is usually pretty good. Youmay want to just shoot with that for a while to get familiar withthe camera..

But for sports you will probably need a lens which [a] has a longerreach; and [b] is faster, especially for indoor sports - fastermeans that the maximum aperture (the f number) is as wide aspossible to get as much light into the camera. This is becauseyou're going to want to have a fast shutter speed (say at least1/500 sec) to freeze sports action..

So the LOWER the f number the better, otherwise the shots will betoo dark..

The only snag is, if you check out say Nikon's or Canon's telephotolenses, with reach of 200mm or longer, the ones with the widest maxaperture, e.g. Nikon's 70-200 f2.8 VR (that means vibrationreduction), are expensive compared to the slower ones (i.e. withmaximum apertures of say f3.5 or f4)..

That's the cross all of us have to bear... But for outdoor sportsin good light a slower lens should be OK..

So bear in mind your budget for the lens..

Alex.

Http://akiralx.smugmug.com/.

Thank you SO much Alex.You all have been such a big help to me.I appreciate it so very much.Jenn A..

I use Canon equipment. Canon and Nikon both have great lines of cameras that are capable of amazing things in the hands of a good photographer. I purchased my equipment based on it's lowlight abilities for theatre and sports. Just about any DSLR camera (digital single lens reflex) will be better then most consumer level point and shoot cameras..

My camera choice for sports would be a Canon EOS 1D (Mark I, or II and maybe the new Mark III) Many people are very happy with the results they get from other cameras. In the end I think the most important aspects to look for are the low light performance, the shutter lag, and the ability to use a fast shutter even in low light..

Jenn A wrote:.

First off I want to say thank you very much for taking the time tohelp me out here.Games start around Aug/Sept and can last intoNov/Dec,so the games will be played both in the daylight and atnight,under lights..

I want a good camera and I know that I will have to pay for it! Iwas going to go about $500 but it doesn't look like that's going tocut it.The Nikon D40 is pretty good priced.May I ask what you thinkof that one?If you don't want to go into it I totally understand..

Thanks for listing what to look for,that helps tremendously.It'sfunny you mention Canon,I was looking in the Canon camera list andwas looking at the powershot S5 IS ans S3 IS...

Do you have a limit on what you want to spend? Does your son play mostly night games?.

If he plays day games then you won't have a problem finding a lens to get you close enoughHere's an example of a 70-300 lens taken from a good distance away..

Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window..

It..

Most high school stadiums are black holes as far as light is concerned..

Even F2.8 lenses and ISO 1600 are not enough for even decent shots at most stadiums..

So save your self some frustration and try and get the shots you want during the day games..

Minimum would be a D40 (or used D50) Rebel XT (Xt350) new or used, Rebel 400D/Xti and something like the Sigma 70-200/2.8. Used about $600 or so..

You can also get something like Canon or Nikon's 70-300 with IS/VR for about the same..

But even during the day on cloudy days you'll need to be at ISO 800 and maybe more with an 5.6 lens if you want to keep the shutter speed up..

To really get sharp pics during action the SS needs to be at about 1/1000 and more is better..

Good luck.

Gene..

Hi,.

Well,it's not that I don;t want to spend alot on a camera,it's that I can't right now.I could probably swing a Nikon d40..

He will be playing some games in the daylight but mostly night games under big bright lights.Thank you so muchJenn A..

R Valentino wrote:.

It..

Most high school stadiums are black holes as far as light isconcerned..

Even F2.8 lenses and ISO 1600 are not enough for even decent shotsat most stadiums..

So save your self some frustration and try and get the shots youwant during the day games..

Minimum would be a D40 (or used D50) Rebel XT (Xt350) new or used,Rebel 400D/Xti and something like the Sigma 70-200/2.8. Used about$600 or so..

You can also get something like Canon or Nikon's 70-300 with IS/VRfor about the same..

But even during the day on cloudy days you'll need to be at ISO 800and maybe more with an 5.6 lens if you want to keep the shutterspeed up..

To really get sharp pics during action the SS needs to be at about1/1000 and more is better..

Good luck.

Gene.

Thanks very much Gene.I am beginning to think the same...get a bunch of shots in the light of day!.

I am hoping for at least a d40 but got to reading that the d50 has more lens capabilities..?? I am ignorant when oi comes to the dslr's.Jenn A..

Oops,scratch that d50,I thought it was cheaper than what it is!Jenn A..

The Nikon D40.I would rather have the d80 but budget just will not allow for that right now.

Myself (and I am still pretty ignorant about these dslr's),I just can't justify paying 200 extra bucks for 4 more MP and .5 more fps for the d40x.If I am wrong please correct me..

I am confused about the auto focus...is it there? From what I am reading it is there with certain lenses.Is that correct? If so,is the kit lense the one it works with? I am not sure if I can manually focus and get good shots..

I know I must sound really dumb and I hesitated to ask these questions but I won't know until I do..

Thanks so very much.Jenn A..

That way you have your team on the side lines and your teams fans in the background of your pics instesd of the other teams people in the background. You will also get more and better photos because you do not know anyone on the visitors side, If you shoot from your teams side you will be talking with friends instead of shooting..

Mandmp..

OMGosh,thank you!.

Had not even thought of that.You are right,I nwould have been gabbing it up while watching..

I am one of these vocal fans...I am not rude and mean...but I do cheer them on .

Thanks so much for that tip.Jenn A..

Jenn A wrote:.

The Nikon D40.I would rather have the d80 but budget just will not allow for thatright nowMyself (and I am still pretty ignorant about these dslr's),I justcan't justify paying 200 extra bucks for 4 more MP and .5 more fpsfor the d40x.If I am wrong please correct me..

You are not wrong, with the D40x it seems that Nikon is playing the MP war and thinking more is better..

I am confused about the auto focus...is it there? From what I amreading it is there with certain lenses.Is that correct? If so,isthe kit lense the one it works with? I am not sure if I canmanually focus and get good shots..

The D40 works with lenses that have AF-S, which includes a motor in the lens to focus. The D40 is an autofocus camera but you will need to find lenses that have the AF-S, it will be stated for each lens..

As for lenses I know your budget is slim, for football your going to want a decent zoom lens, I would like to recommend the 70-200 VR f2.8 but I know that is way out of your budget. This way you will be able to get some good shots at night. Otherwise it will be real tough to get a decent shot, due to slow shutter speed and noise at high ISO. I'd like to recommend a budget lens but am unsure of how they are as I am only shooting with the Pro level lenses. I'm sure others can chime in on them..

I know I must sound really dumb and I hesitated to ask thesequestions but I won't know until I do..

Nothing is dumb when it comes to spending a lot of money. You need to make sure your not going over your head and want to make sure your getting the best bang for your buck..

I researched a whole lot before I ended up starting with the D70 a few years ago, and then went with the D200 after researching again. And posting in these forums is a great way to get some real world research..

Thanks so very much.Jenn A.

Good luck with the season..

Photography and Graphic DesignPortfolio - http://www.atlanticexpressinc.comPrints - http://www.atlanticexpressions.com..

Djbahdow wrote:.

The D40 works with lenses that have AF-S, which includes a motor inthe lens to focus. The D40 is an autofocus camera but you will needto find lenses that have the AF-S, it will be stated for each lens..

As for lenses I know your budget is slim, for football your goingto want a decent zoom lens, I would like to recommend the 70-200 VRf2.8 but I know that is way out of your budget. This way you willbe able to get some good shots at night. Otherwise it will be realtough to get a decent shot, due to slow shutter speed and noise athigh ISO. I'd like to recommend a budget lens but am unsure of howthey are as I am only shooting with the Pro level lenses. I'm sureothers can chime in on them..

The 55-200 VR AF-S may be the lens to go with, inexpensive and not so fast but should get the job done in good light. Or the 70-300 VR, more expensive though..

Alex.

Http://akiralx.smugmug.com/..

You are not wrong, with the D40x it seems that Nikon is playing theMP war and thinking more is better..

Ahh,thank you very much.Maybe I am starting to understand some of this stuff .

The D40 works with lenses that have AF-S, which includes a motor inthe lens to focus. The D40 is an autofocus camera but you will needto find lenses that have the AF-S, it will be stated for each lens..

As for lenses I know your budget is slim, for football your goingto want a decent zoom lens, I would like to recommend the 70-200 VRf2.8 but I know that is way out of your budget. This way you willbe able to get some good shots at night. Otherwise it will be realtough to get a decent shot, due to slow shutter speed and noise athigh ISO. I'd like to recommend a budget lens but am unsure of howthey are as I am only shooting with the Pro level lenses. I'm sureothers can chime in on them..

Thank you very much.I will do some research into some more affordable lenses..

Nothing is dumb when it comes to spending a lot of money. You needto make sure your not going over your head and want to make sureyour getting the best bang for your buck..

I researched a whole lot before I ended up starting with the D70 afew years ago, and then went with the D200 after researching again.And posting in these forums is a great way to get some real worldresearch..

For us,this is a big chunck of change.I drive myself nutty researching before buying a big ticket item..

I am so thankfu for this forum and you fabulous people that help the newbies like me!.

Good luck with the season..

Thanks!.

Jenn A..

The 55-200 VR AF-S may be the lens to go with, inexpensive and notso fast but should get the job done in good light. Or the 70-300VR, more expensive though..

Alex.

Http://akiralx.smugmug.com/.

Thanks for the rec. Alex!Jenn A..

Either the Canon Rebel XTi (798.54) or the Rebel XT (615.54)..

I ask because by the time I buy another lens I will probably have spent as much as these cost or more..

Do these have good enough lenses?.

I don't blame you if your patience are running thin.If there's a website or something I can go to in order to learn what would work for me,I would be happy to go and research them if someone would pint me in the right direction .

Thank you SO much.Jenn A..

They are set up the same way the D40 is, small/short range zoom lens 18-55mm or so. So you will still need a long range zoom. Any of the cameras will do you just fine, I would recommend going to a store. Ritz Camera, Best Buy, etc, and try a few out. See which one feels best in your hands. They are all somewhat simple to use. And as you already know there are many helpful people on this forum.Photography and Graphic DesignPortfolio - http://www.atlanticexpressinc.comPrints - http://www.atlanticexpressions.com..

Thank you..

I was at wal mart last night fiddling with them.My husband told me to get whichever one I wanted SInce both kit lenses are about the same I will most likely go with the d40 but will probably change my mind tomorrow..lol...

He found a really small one he wanted to get to buy to take with us on our motorcycle trips...it was a Fugi fine pix...can't remember the exact model but it was $200..yikes!Jenn A..

Fuji makes some great cams. Can't go wrong with one of them..

Don't torture yourself too much about which camera to get. Nikon and Canon make terrific products. You will be happy with either one. One good thing about sticking with one of the major brands is both have a wide range of lenses available for them adn the market for used lenses is pretty active. This gives you a good place to sell lenses when you decide to move on to something else and a place to buy good used equipment if you want to save a few dollars. The accessory market is also much bigger for canon and Nikon than most other brands ( I guess that could be a bad thing  ).

Mike.

Http://www.liquidartgallery.com.

'For every complex problem there is a solution that is obvious, simple..and wrong'..

Thanks Mike.I am kinda torn.I will sleep on it.Now ya'll are going to have show me where to buy these good used lenses Jenn A..

This site has a list of places..

Http://www.the-digital-picture.com/...ses/Where-To-Buy-Used-Canon-Lenses.aspx.

I've only used B&H and ebay for purchasing used equipment, but you can save 30% or so on perfectly good lenses if you don't mind buying used..

Mike.

Http://www.liquidartgallery.com.

'For every complex problem there is a solution that is obvious, simple..and wrong'..

Whereas the D40 will not. In Nikon or Canon this versatile lens is about $80 and really opens up your low light capabilities..

If you are going to be with the kit lenses for a while you might want to take a look at the Olympus E500 2 lens kit..

It is $618 from Amazon- maybe cheaper elsewhere. The 2 lenses cover 28-300mm in 35mm terms..

The best thing about it is the 40-150 (80-300) lens. It's a 3.5-4.5 aperture lens, which makes it about 2/3 of a stop faster (brighter) than the competing kit lenses and optically it's probably better than any of them other than the Nikon 55-200VR..

Take a look at it, it's a great deal right now..

Gene..

Given your budget and experience, I think the chances of you getting the desired amount of keepers is minimal..

Why not hire a professional photographer for a couple of gamesone night, one dayso you can sit back and enjoy the game, and getting professional pictures to enjoy for the rest of your lives..

It will be both cheaper and more rewarding...

Mmelgar wrote:.

This site has a list of places..

Http://www.the-digital-picture.com/...ses/Where-To-Buy-Used-Canon-Lenses.aspx.

I've only used B&H and ebay for purchasing used equipment, but youcan save 30% or so on perfectly good lenses if you don't mindbuying used..

Mike.

Thank you Mike.It is bookmarked.I don't have a problem buying used.Jenn A..

Snycer wrote:.

Given your budget and experience, I think the chances of yougetting the desired amount of keepers is minimal..

Why not hire a professional photographer for a couple of gamesonenight, one dayso you can sit back and enjoy the game, and gettingprofessional pictures to enjoy for the rest of your lives..

It will be both cheaper and more rewarding..

That would solve alot of headache..LOL!But I still need a new digital camera for everything else because mine is gone.I have searched this house top to bottom and can't find it.I will think long and hard about your suggestion,thanks .

(I tend to make some things harder than what they really have to be!)Jenn A..

Jenn A wrote:.

(I tend to make some things harder than what they really have to be!).

In this case, I think you aren't realizing exactly how difficult it will be to get the photographs you envision..

Shooting a high school football game at night is, I believe, outside of your capabilities. Even if you spent a couple of thousands dollars, you'd have a very difficult time and most likely would not be satisfied with the results..

For about $1k, you might do okay in the daytime, but it is really worth it to you to buy a camera and hope you can learn how to use it the first season you have it? If you aren't satisfied, there are no re-shoots..

Go with the pro. Buy the right kind of camera for your typical usage, not for this specific use that requires quite of bit of skill in addition to equipment...

Go with the pro. Buy the right kind of camera for your typicalusage, not for this specific use that requires quite of bit ofskill in addition to equipment..

I can totally see what you're saying and I will get someone to take some good pics of my senior..

I do have 4 more children after him though,they play baseball and basketball.That leaves me a few years to practice and learn  The youngest is only in the 6th grade this fall.I know it takes alot of skill and practice,I am willing to learn!Thanks again.

Jenn A..

Thank you so much.I am looking at it right now.I actually was 30 minutes but my mom and knocked me off the internet.It's funny how my budget jumped from $500 to $700 Jenn A..