When I bought the lens, the guy selling it to me automatically put myRebel on P mode and said that's where it should be..
Obviously a half-wit....
I usually shootmanual. If I'm shooting groups of say 3-10 people, what settingsshould I use? I'm concerned about not getting everyone's face infocus. Be detailed if you can when replying. MANY THANKS!.
'P' will probably do a good job a lot of time time, but....
1. When shooting people you need a moderately fast shutter speed as nobody stands perfectly still. WIth a 50mm lens on a 1/1.5 crop camera like yours you probably want to use at least 1/100 sec or faster anyway to avoid camera shake..
2. Depth of field can be an issue if the group is arranged with some people in front of others, so if the camera focuses on someone in the front row, a person a couple of feet behind could be out of focus. You can get a feel for this using the depth-of-field calculator at.
Http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html.
For example, with your camera and the 50mm lens set at f/5.6, focussing distance 10 feet, only a range from 8.86 to 11.5 feet will be in focus, a total depth of field of 2.62 feet. You might easily get someone in the back row out of focus. At f/11 however the d-o-f field runs from 7.95 feet to 13.5, a total of 5.52 feet, so all the group are more likely to be in focus..
You maximise d-o-f with a smaller aperture, and a subject further away. In contrast if the subject is close to you and you have a wide aperture you will get an extremely narrow depth of field (eyes might be in focus but not the ears which are a few inches further back)..
So....
Use aperture priority; select an f-stop like f/11 (light permitting); make sure that the resulting shutter speed is at least 1/100 sec; and you should be fine. You can always increase the ISO a bit in poor light - your camera has good low-light performance so don't be afraid to use e.g. ISO400 to allow you to get the shutter speed / aperture combination you need. Much better to have a tiny bit of 'noise' (almost imperceptible unless you take a magnifying glass to the prints) than a blurred shot because the shutter speed was too slow, or having the back row out of focus because the aperture was too wide..
Best wishes.
Mike..
I am in general agreement with everything that Mike, the previous responder said, but with a 50 mm lens on a crop sensor, you are not going to be able to do large groups except from quite some distance. Even with just 9 people, a row of 4 and a row of 5, you are going to be far enough back so that a modest f-stop, such as f/8, would give you enough depth of field..
There is nothing wrong with shooting in manual mode, especially if you want to spot meter a face, set the camera, and then move back to shoot..
If youre using flash, remember that the gradient of light fall off increases with closeness to the subject. If you are shooting close, the front row can be overexposed and the back row underexposed. Being further back helps with this as it leads to a more gradual gradient..
Brian A...
Any mode will work. If you select P mode, you turn a dial to see-saw the aperture and fstop, where in A mode you set an aperture value and the camera adjusts shutter speed and in S mode you set a shutter speed and the camera adjusts the aperture. Basically, these are all slightly different ways to accomplish the same thing: Let the camera determine the proper exposure..
If you're used to M mode, then I would use that. As you already know you'll want to watch the cameras exposure value to make sure you're not too far off it's recommendation unless it's a special lighting situation..
Given a crowd of people that you want in focus, I would have to give a slight nod to A mode allowing you to give precedence to the aperture for depth of field..
Personally, I shoot most often in P mode, and find the see-saw of fstop and aperture to work the best for me and my own shots..
Everything I write is a personal opinion. Even when I quote facts, they are the facts I personally choose to accept.http://www.pbase.com/mariog..
A 50 on a DSLR is a portrait lens. For groups you need something quite a bit wider...
EGORDON99.
To respond to your reply, yes, I charge. When mothers are eagerly pulling out their checkbooks/chargecards - who am I to refuse? They can go anywhere, but they come to me for the following. These following images are not dpreview worthy, by far. But I'm learning. And getting paid as I go....sorry you didn't..
Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.
Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.
Image control:Zoom outZoom 100%Zoom inExpand AllOpen in new window.
Egordon99 wrote:.
Http://forums.dpreview.com/...ms/readflat.asp?forum=1002&message=24561593.
And you are actually CHARGING people! WOW!.
Jennifer..
K1000Photographer - 3 hours ago.
A 50 on a DSLR is a portrait lens. For groups you need something quite a bit wider..
ME:.
That's what I was afraid of, but everyone who replied above did not point that out.??Jennifer..
JSampson wrote:.
EGORDON99.
To respond to your reply, yes, I charge. When mothers are eagerlypulling out their checkbooks/chargecards - who am I to refuse? Theycan go anywhere, but they come to me for the following. Thesefollowing images are not dpreview worthy, by far. But I'm learning.And getting paid as I go....sorry you didn't..
I could definitely see people paying for prints off of those image (IMO).
My meager galleries: http://nickambrose.smugmug.com/..
Thank you, Nick..
Nick Ambrose wrote:.
JSampson wrote:.
EGORDON99.
To respond to your reply, yes, I charge. When mothers are eagerlypulling out their checkbooks/chargecards - who am I to refuse? Theycan go anywhere, but they come to me for the following. Thesefollowing images are not dpreview worthy, by far. But I'm learning.And getting paid as I go....sorry you didn't..
I could definitely see people paying for prints off of those image (IMO).
My meager galleries: http://nickambrose.smugmug.com/.
Jennifer..
JSampson wrote:.
When I bought the lens, the guy selling it to me automatically put myRebel on P mode and said that's where it should be. I usually shootmanual. If I'm shooting groups of say 3-10 people, what settingsshould I use? I'm concerned about not getting everyone's face infocus. Be detailed if you can when replying. MANY THANKS!.
50mm is not for group shots. You need something around 20mm. (But watch out for the inevitable distortions if you mind those things.).
You shoot in Manual mode? Wow. That's quite advanced!.
JenniferPlease no rude replies...just trying to learn..
~~http://www.flickr.com/photos/commonobjects/..
People still seem infatuated with 50's in this age of APS sensors. For me, I prefer my A28/2.8 and Zenitar 16 fisheye. I also use a Sigma 17-70 a lot, mostly on the shorter side...
Nice pictures... I can see why people would pay for those. Just goes to prove that there is a difference between being a technical expert and having a good eye for a picture ..
Your pics look like they would have been taken with your 50mm lens, i.e. a moderate telephoto. As others have pointed out for group shots a shorter focal length is necessary unless you want to stand a long way back. Do you only have the 50mm lens wit your Canon? If so that's quite restrictive, and a good standard zoom like the Sigma 17-70 or Tamron 18-50 would be a good idea. (Avoid the cheap Canon 18-55 kit lens if you can.... it's cheap for a reason)..
Using a wider angle (shorter focal length) will also increase the depth of field and avoid the problem of having the back of the group out of focus - see the online d-o-f calculator I gave the link to earlier..
Best wishesMike..
Decades ago, Canon invented the AE-1 Program camera, which was the first readily available camera with a program setting..
I bought one, and since then have used this setting most of the time for the vast majority of non-pro pictures. And lots of pro ones, too..
With today's cameras, the system is even better than in the past..
Yes, you can shoot groups with a 50mm lens on a Rebel; you just need to stand back farther than with lenses most people would choose..
Three people, clustered together, is a great choice for a 50mm shot. 10 people, sitting on different brances of a tree... well, I'd want a shorter lens, probably..
Do you have a kit lens? Look through it and imagine groups in front of you. Zoom the lens in and out, walk closer and then back away, paying attention to two things.1/ can you fit the number of people you imagine into the frame you image?.
2/ how much background can you see with each of your imaginary shots? The shorter the lens (18mm, 20mm) the more background. The longer the lens (50mm) the les the background..
So three kids in front of a school; Stand closer with a wide angle lens and you'll still see lots of school in the background..
BAck up so the kids are the same size in the frame with a 50mm lens, and you'll see less school in the background..
BAK..
Mike, thank you. I did read your earlier reply, but didn't get to the link yet so I didn't reply back. I really appreciate your comment about there being "difference between being a technical expert and having a good eye..." I'm really trying to soak up the technical end - I'm feeling very good about my "eye." Again, thanks.People like YOU keep me here on dpreview, for sure..
I do own that cheap kit lens and it is now collecting dust but it's the only lens I have in that 18-55 range. And yes - only got my beloved 50mm 1.4 - very restrictive. I'll look into the ones you suggested. Many thanks for all your input..
Mike703 wrote:.
Nice pictures... I can see why people would pay for those. Just goesto prove that there is a difference between being a technical expertand having a good eye for a picture ..
Your pics look like they would have been taken with your 50mm lens,i.e. a moderate telephoto. As others have pointed out for groupshots a shorter focal length is necessary unless you want to stand along way back. Do you only have the 50mm lens wit your Canon? If sothat's quite restrictive, and a good standard zoom like the Sigma17-70 or Tamron 18-50 would be a good idea. (Avoid the cheap Canon18-55 kit lens if you can.... it's cheap for a reason)..
Using a wider angle (shorter focal length) will also increase thedepth of field and avoid the problem of having the back of the groupout of focus - see the online d-o-f calculator I gave the link toearlier..
Best wishesMike.
Jennifer..
BAK - I see you on here alot and always like your posts. Thanks for your reply - a bit "dumbed-down"...but just how I prefer it! Again, many thanks!!.
BAK wrote:.
Decades ago, Canon invented the AE-1 Program camera, which was thefirst readily available camera with a program setting..
I bought one, and since then have used this setting most of the timefor the vast majority of non-pro pictures. And lots of pro ones, too..
With today's cameras, the system is even better than in the past..
Yes, you can shoot groups with a 50mm lens on a Rebel; you just needto stand back farther than with lenses most people would choose..
Three people, clustered together, is a great choice for a 50mm shot.10 people, sitting on different brances of a tree... well, I'd want ashorter lens, probably..
Do you have a kit lens? Look through it and imagine groups in frontof you. Zoom the lens in and out, walk closer and then back away,paying attention to two things.1/ can you fit the number of people you imagine into the frame youimage?.
2/ how much background can you see with each of your imaginary shots?The shorter the lens (18mm, 20mm) the more background. The longer thelens (50mm) the les the background..
So three kids in front of a school; Stand closer with a wide anglelens and you'll still see lots of school in the background..
BAck up so the kids are the same size in the frame with a 50mm lens,and you'll see less school in the background..
BAK.
Jennifer..
CommonObjects wrote:.
50mm is not for group shots. You need something around 20mm. (Butwatch out for the inevitable distortions if you mind those things.)You shoot in Manual mode? Wow. That's quite advanced!.
50mm will work for 3-4 people, it's when I get a back row that I run into more problems.....
Manual mode - for me: I put it on manual with not a ton of forethought. I take a test shot. I adjust speed/aperture to get the correct exposure - taking a few more shots in the process - voila! Got my manual settings. I know it's not the way the pros do it, but its' my way of doing manual. Thanks for your reply..
Jennifer..